The actual lever for a Shimano XT left hand brake lever assembly. The Shimano ID number for the assembly is BL-M8100-L
I had an off, climbing something too steep, fell of backwards and sideways and bent the lever. It snapped when I tried to straighten it. The LBS couldn't get one (the pandemic...
That reminds me, I have a nearly new XT Shimano left brake assembly with a missing lever. When I broke it, the pandemic was in the full flow of its effects and Shimano had closed most of its factories. I will try again.
Just in case anyone is in possession of a broken left brake but with an...
When you make your mind up from the good advice given so far, get your bearings from here:
https://trailvision.co.uk/collections/all-bike-bearings
Look out for their "Blue Seal" bearings - the website will tell you all about them.
Their pages will help you find the correct bearings; depending...
My previous bike had a Shimano e8000. I did over 3000 miles without issue. I sold the bike and heard nothing back.
My current bike has a Shimano EP8 motor and I've done just over 3000 miles, again without issue. There is no movement in the crank when I rock it from side to side, the cranks spin...
I can understand the logic on the rear wheel as it is driving you forward and the blocks will grip better. Increased rolling resistance, but a good compromise if you get better climbing. Marginally worse rear braking though, but the front brake is supposed to do most of the slowing down, so no...
Oakley's for me as well. I've been using them for years and years. The clarity is exceptional. They are very robust; I trod on them once, I heard and felt a crunch and they broke into several bits! But they just clicked back together again!! :love:
The nosepiece and the socks on the arms are...
That looks too high on the head. The bottom of the cradle at the back looks to be above the inion (the natural bump at the back of the head. It marks the bottom of the skull where it attaches to the neck muscles).
I am happy to accept that my measuring technique may be a bit rusty. I briefly had a brand-new disc in my hands this afternoon and measured it with my metric vernier callipers and also my imperial micrometer. Not only did they give different readings in different parts of the disc, but they also...
I agree with @Jackware. I use "Image Resizer" (Google it). You can take any size pic and reduce it down to almost nothing. I used it to create my signature photograph, which are not many pixels at all.
They came with the bike and I don't believe that I ride steep enough stuff on long enough descents to make a noticeable difference. I have a link to a thread that gives user feedback (at the end).
The consensus appears to be that the best and most noticeable difference is not when braking...
It might be the bond between the foam and the shell. I had one helmet that separated and had to be scrapped.
It might also be from an accumulation of knocks, bangs, dings, dents, scratches, scuffs. General wear & tear in other words. I had one of those as well.
But mostly I break them, so they...
A Shimano RT-EM910 (203mm rear brake disc)
A Shimano CN-M8100 (12s XT 126 link chain)
A set of Shimano disc brake pads NO3A (finned, resin)
Fitting them is what I'll be doing today! :)
I know you all read the same stuff, so I won't post the same in "What did you do to your bike today?"
The helmet makers all do research on the shape of people's heads to make a form called a "last". These lasts have been produced at different times and the researchers would have been given different criteria to select their people for head measurement.
Consequently, all the lasts are different...