Am considering doing my own bearings am I a fool?

[edruid]

Morning! Being told my CUBE 155 MT ebike (full carbon still under warranty but apparently warranty does not extend) needs a new set of bearings at 650 miles/10months.
I don’t like the idea of paying for the bike shop to do that every 650 miles.
So am considering investing in kit to do the job myself (perhaps with bearings that last longer).
I also have 3 older-style (2015-2020) Haibike eMTBs & some muscle bikes which might be factored in to justify investment.
What do people reckon, advice and tips very welcome...
Thanks
Edruid

 

[TommyC]

I did mine with a hammer and screwdriver/sockets to get them out and used a bottom bracket press with sockets to get them back in.

To do a ‘proper’ job I was looking at these

Frame Bearing Pullers

Below are our bearing pullers sold individually by size. Many of the same tools can be used for frames and hubs, but we have a few extra tools made specifically for hubs, which can be found here. If you're looking for a ready-made kit of tools to suit your frame, see the 'Tool Kits by Bike'...

www.bearingprotools.com

Would need a few different sizes for my one full sus bike so couldn’t justify the cost.

My stereo 140 needed new linkage bearings at 600 miles too

 

[Plummet]

If you have to ask......

Side note. 650 miles is sweet FA. Why do them so soon? Go another 1000.... unless the back is is all sloppy.

 

[Weeksy]

Ideally find someone who's done it before to hand hold you through a couple, it's not a hard job usually but does sometimes need a bit of thought

 

[cozzy]

Buy a proper kit from pro bearing tools i think it is? Dont piss around with plastic presses or sockets and threaded rod, they never go in straight.
It was an absolute revelation using the right tools, so easy.

 

[edruid]

If you have to ask......

Side note. 650 miles is sweet FA. Why do them so soon? Go another 1000.... unless the back is is all sloppy.

Creaking sounds are making me enjoy riding less

 

[edruid]

I did mine with a hammer and screwdriver/sockets to get them out and used a bottom bracket press with sockets to get them back in.

To do a ‘proper’ job I was looking at these

Frame Bearing Pullers

Below are our bearing pullers sold individually by size. Many of the same tools can be used for frames and hubs, but we have a few extra tools made specifically for hubs, which can be found here. If you're looking for a ready-made kit of tools to suit your frame, see the 'Tool Kits by Bike'...

www.bearingprotools.com

Would need a few different sizes for my one full sus bike so couldn’t justify the cost.

My stereo 140 needed new linkage bearings at 600 miles too

Carbon so hammer not an option

 

[Weeksy]

Creaking sounds are making me enjoy riding less

In this weather/dust I'd bet the bearings are ok. Just stop, clean, grease, torque all linkages, spacers. You can even remove the bearing seals and shove a bit more grease in there.
My Status needed it this morning, it's quite a therapeutic job.

 

[B1rdie]

Creaking sounds are making me enjoy riding less

How did you assure that the ceaking is not coming from other sources?
If you never did this job, starting with the most expensive bike that you have is not wise IMHO.

 

[TommyC]

Carbon so hammer not an option

mines carbon too. You can use a hammer softly.

 

[edruid]

How did you assure that the ceaking is not coming from other sources?
If you never did this job, starting with the most expensive bike that you have is not wise IMHO.

Guy in the lbs was a ninja at flexing the bike to replicate creak, deffo the bearings. I hear ya re practising on the megabucks one!

 

[steve_sordy]

Morning! Being told my CUBE 155 MT ebike (full carbon still under warranty but apparently warranty does not extend) needs a new set of bearings at 650 miles/10months.
I don’t like the idea of paying for the bike shop to do that every 650 miles.
So am considering investing in kit to do the job myself (perhaps with bearings that last longer).
I also have 3 older-style (2015-2020) Haibike eMTBs & some muscle bikes which might be factored in to justify investment.
What do people reckon, advice and tips very welcome...
Thanks
Edruid

When you make your mind up from the good advice given so far, get your bearings from here:

All Bike Bearings

Quality replacement bearings for mountain bikes and road bikes. Supplying Blueseal Bike Bearings for wheel hubs, frames, bottom brackets and headsets. trusted for Over 15 Years.

trailvision.co.uk

Look out for their "Blue Seal" bearings - the website will tell you all about them.
Their pages will help you find the correct bearings; depending upon bike, they sell a complete bearing kit for your bike.
Their delivery is fast and their prices are competitive.

 

[Plummet]

Creaking sounds are making me enjoy riding less

Bearings usually don't creak. Clean and grease everything first. It's unlikely to be the bearings.

 

[Plummet]

mines carbon too. You can use a hammer softly.

Yep, and then harder when softly doesn't work.

 

[steve_sordy]

Yep, and then harder when softly doesn't work.

You are always better off hitting softly and more accurately with a big hammer than trying to achieve the same effect with a small hammer wielded with a mighty clout!

 

[Plummet]

You are always better off hitting softly and more accurately with a big hammer than trying to achieve the same effect with a small hammer wielded with a mighty clout!

My experience is that softly usually doesn't cut it on grime covered components that are a year or so old.

 

[steve_sordy]

My experience is that softly usually doesn't cut it on grime covered components that are a year or so old.

It depends upon the size of the hammer, trust me on this.

A large hammer (or any big lump of steel) can be applied accurately because you are moving it slowly. It will do less surface damage to whatever you are hitting. The speed of application can be slowly incremented.
A smaller hammer has to be struck faster to have a similar energy. Speed can mean less accuracy (but there are ways around that) and can bring an increased risk of surface damage.

Example: A few weeks into a new engineering job, as part of my introduction to the business was put on the night shift in the factory. Some of the fitters were trying to change the bearings in a gearbox and just could not get the buggers out. They were using a 3lbs weight hammer without success. I asked them to get me 10"-12" of steel bar 2.5 - 3 " diameter. I hung it from the end of my arm and swung it in quite gently. And the bearing popped out! Kudos was earned. (Some important details have been omitted to avoid being tedious).

 

[Eliadn]

Eh just a question, when hammering out pressed brearings, is it okay for the bike to swing in the maintenance stand? Or it should be firmly secured.

 

[Weeksy]

It'll lessen the force you imply as it moves about. You'll get a better impact if it's fixed...

 

[TommyC]

Eh just a question, when hammering out pressed brearings, is it okay for the bike to swing in the maintenance stand? Or it should be firmly secured.

When I did my bearings I did have the bike fully stripped down so could lay all the frame parts out on a flat surface.

 

[James_C]

Buy a proper kit from pro bearing tools i think it is? Dont piss around with plastic presses or sockets and threaded rod, they never go in straight.
It was an absolute revelation using the right tools, so easy.

I'd agree with this. Ebay knock off ones are about £40. I've probably destroyed at least a few bearings with sockets so mine had just about paid for itself already.

Not sure you need to put a full kit on, you might just have a few gritty or seized ones. The horst links ones on mine go far more often than anything else, I now take it apart regularly and spin the bearings by hand to see how they feel.

 

[jackamo]

Morning! Being told my CUBE 155 MT ebike (full carbon still under warranty but apparently warranty does not extend) needs a new set of bearings at 650 miles/10months.
I don’t like the idea of paying for the bike shop to do that every 650 miles.
So am considering investing in kit to do the job myself (perhaps with bearings that last longer).
I also have 3 older-style (2015-2020) Haibike eMTBs & some muscle bikes which might be factored in to justify investment.
What do people reckon, advice and tips very welcome...
Thanks
Edruid

Just replaced all my Raymon fullrays bearings after 1000 miles .
It's easy enough to knock them out of most frames .
Normally a flat head screwdriver and small hammer will do the job but but make sure you have good allen keys to remove all bolts as some are made of cheese by Cube .
Try and find the bearing sizes before hand and buy in bulk ( ebay )
I always pop a seal on my bearings and pack them completely with grease before installing.
Threaded stud and a selection of nuts and some sockets will get them installed.
Just take your time and make sure they go in square .

 

[Pickle1970]

Did all mine myself, bought the RRP kit for about £100.
It's about the same price as paying a good shop to do it, but you then have the tools to do it any time you need to.

 

[Stihldog]

When we purchase a new full suspension bike we’re usually not too concerned about the type, or quality, of the bearings used in our linkage system.

Creaking noises may/will start after 500-1000kms. Mine did. Especially at the main pivot. Good quality bearings are costly and the manufacturer probably won’t bare that extra cost …why would they? (Insert thousands of reasons here.)

After changing my linkage bearings at the 1K kms mark 4 years ago …creaks be gone! I still grease the main pivot axle at least twice a year though.

Quality Bearings.

 

[edruid]

Which bearings get your vote?

 

[Stihldog]

When you make your mind up from the good advice given so far, get your bearings from here:

All Bike Bearings

Quality replacement bearings for mountain bikes and road bikes. Supplying Blueseal Bike Bearings for wheel hubs, frames, bottom brackets and headsets. trusted for Over 15 Years.

trailvision.co.uk

Look out for their "Blue Seal" bearings - the website will tell you all about them.
Their pages will help you find the correct bearings; depending upon bike, they sell a complete bearing kit for your bike.
Their delivery is fast and their prices are competitive.

These ones look good.

Which bearings get your vote?

But the stock/standard bearings don’t seem to last.

 

[edruid]

Ok so I removed/cleaned/greased/retorqued all the pivot bearings (as distinct from joints with crtridge bearings) and the creaking stopped - Yay.
This is my 1st yoke shock set up bike so had no idea there were joints that just had bolts!
Had to play a game of 20 questions/jeoprody with the bike shop to be sure what was what and no warranty voidage but that beats payong them to grease x6 bols every 600 miles!!!!!!!!!!
Always somthing new to learn eh . . .
Thanks for all your help guys

 

[Pickle1970]

Well done, it's always so good doing it yourself. You'll be so much better at it the next time

 

[Mikerb]

I wonder why so many seem to have problems with pivot bearings. The best way to protect pivot points etc is to use an effective rear mudguard ......one that stops trail muck from the rear tyre being thrown onto bottom pivot, yoke bearings, dropper post and shock. Then when cleaning the bike do not ( initially at least) use water because all you do then is drive dust/mud etc past the spacers into the bearings. First job is to use a cassette type brush and brush out the bearing area. I then use chain oil and drip a bit onto the spacers and then clean that with a pipe cleaner. Sound like a PIA? It literally takes a few minutes.
I just sold a 4 year old bike and currently have a 2 year old bike...both of which have had to endure UK winters and dusty summers and covered over 2000 miles between them (I also have a 3rd bike). No bearing problems.

 

[Weeksy]

When you say, no bearing problems.

Have you had it apart to see if they rotate?