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Here is my connector that accepts 8036 or 8035-L batteries if it helps. The right most connector should be lower than the left most.

The brake hose is factory attarched to the caliper, you can just connect that hose to the existing levers.

Officially, the 11-50 mech is incompatible with the 11-52 casette. Here is a video covering the topic @ 6:04

My understanding is that only the b stop adjustment is all you need to do. If the current chain length is at the limit, then you have to also modify the length but I'll bet that the current chain length would be just fine.

BT-E8036 630Wh 16 cycles 98% EP8 4.1.4 EC-E6000 charger 1438 km / 95h / 11 Months Off 5,7% / Eco 88,2% / Trail 5,9% / Boost 0,2% This suggest that 20% degradation would give me 14380 km's of riding if the degradation is linear. I have also 8035-L (504Wh, same dimensions as 8036, but ~550g...

Inefficient compared to cable. When we look at phones with wireless charging, the wireless uses about 40% more power to deliver the same charge. The issues that some people have related to water ingress on charging ports can simply solved by better placement and design of the ports. I'm not...

https://www.bike24.com/p2410841.html This works on my Spectral:ON that originally has centerlock rotors with a magnet.

We just ride our bikes and don't care what bikes everyone has.

In my experience on rockshox fork and shock decals, they are easy to remove with just finger nails. They leave very little residue on the surface and that is easy to remove.

None of the above. A Finnish Designer

EDIT: nevermind...

Same here, good quality from Slickgraphics, ordered many times from them. Delivery to Finland generally about a week.

In my case once to battery led is solid green, the charger doesn't draw any power from the socket so no balancing at this point.

I can see the forest with plenty of trails from my window. Probaly around 300m from my door to the first singletrack head.

Atleast in my country, the seller is obligated by law to take care of any warranty issues for the products that they sell. If they can't do it themselves, they have to pay someone to do that for them and make sure it's done right and arrange everything.

https://www.canyon.com/en-fi/gear/bike-parts/spare-and-wear-parts/spare-wear-parts/canyon-gp7102-01-battery-cover/10007985.html https://www.canyon.com/en-fi/gear/bike-parts/spare-and-wear-parts/spare-wear-parts/canyon-gp7102-01-battery-cover/10007983.html Here are two different color options...

If you leave the battery on the bike and the switch is off, does that mean that resistor acts as a ~50W heater? Could that generate some potentially dangerous situations? Would a NTC thermistor be a better option? Anyway, cool project you got there.

One basic question: If you climb with the bike and shred down with the skis, how do you get to the bike? EDIT: my bad, so its for the first part of the hike before you can put the skis on with the skins.

There can only be 1 connection to the bike at a time I will continue using the default steps as a sensor method with my edge 530. I can get cadence that way. Would be nice if garmin would record the steps reported battery level.

Unfortunate it stopped working. Wouldn't connect to my bike anymore. I tried to set the battery id to 0 but that didn't help. Then I reinstalled the data field but that didn't help either.