You just need to swap the mech and shifter to AXS. The original AXS will bolt straight on and is dead east to set up. Will work with existing cassette/chain etc. No need for UDH, that’s only needed for the Transmission version.
Choice wise, I’d go GX.
That's part of the problem, some stuff I've used on other bikes and some I've sold. The fork also has a coil conversion kit it in, which is sprung for me and would be over sprung for less "muscular" (ok, ok less fat) riders. The internals are probably worth more than the sale value of the fork...
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Had my full fat emtb for three years and changed quite a lot of parts to suit my taste. Thinking of selling up and getting a lightweight e-bike instead and wondering if there is a market for frame (with...
I rather like a 2.5 Aggressor on the rear. Works really well on dry, loose rubbly Cairngorm Landrover track.
Currently running this with a 2.5 DHR front.
Dissector as above also said to be tailor made for those conditions but no personal experience of them.
Are the bolts tight? My bike had done over two years and the shock bushings are still fine.
Is the other end (the yoke) end tight?
IME this needs to be well tightened and thread locked to stop it coming loose and giving those symptoms. Awkward to do as the shock needs let down a little to allow...
Power is equal to torque x speed.
Shorter cranks are theoretically easier to spin faster, although I know on my Bosch if you spin too fast the assistance definitely tails off.
On an ebike you have an easily accessible 85Nm of torque which depends very little on the strength of the rider. I...
Sorry Mikerb but I’m calling bollocks on all the perceived effort nonsense. Back in my singlespeed days I changed from 180mm to 170mm and noticed no difference. I’m also running 155mm Hopes and notice no difference in the gears I’m using. Huge reduction in the number of pedal strikes on my gen 1...
I was a bit worried about such a high tooth count (smaller teeth) and ebike power. I went for the Neutron V2 (36t) and have been running it for a year with no issues. Tubless tyre inflated with just a trackpump and the wheel has never been near a spoke key.
Very happy.
22 in the front and 24 in the rear, but that’s on the dodgy dial on my 10 year old track pump. Plus that’s only when I remember to pump them up, so actual operating pressure may be wildly different.
Dyna, If you already have them then it’s a different story. Give them a go, you can always upgrade the back if you find it lacking.
I feel your pain with the Shimanos. Had a leaky rear and had it warrantied after 9 months. The replacement lasted a month before it did the same.
Did you add a larger amount of sealant when you set it up? Rimpact advise an extra 50% to account for the larger surface area inside the tyre with the insert in.
No difference on my two bikes running inserts compared the ones without. I did have the same as you and when I took the set up apart...
Have done it in the past on a short travel (pedal) bike. Worked well for the application I used it for but in all honesty the weight saving was minimal. On a modern bike I’d be going 4 pot front and rear.
I’ve found that I’m more rear brake heavy on the ebike compared to my trail bike even on...
Yes, on my enduro bike as well. Wore the original DD down, so have plenty of time on that casing, but I prefer the feel of a lighter casing used with a Rimpact pro. Only insert I’ve used, so can’t comment on others. Rocky stuff I do is smoother, lumpy rocks rather than sharp stuff. Never been...
Another Rimpact user here and very happy with them. With the extra weight of the e-bike I went for Pro at each end.
I personally (your opinion may vary, especially if your first name is Gary) but I found Double Down casings pretty dead feeling. Yes, they offered good support but obviously also...
To get away from the usual egos arguing and back on topic.
Low to mid 4k is your advertising price with you eventually accepting £4000. Anything above that is a bonus.
Yes, you paid £7800 but £1300 of that went straight to the government in VAT. That takes it down to £6500 of actual bike. Lose...
Just did this last week front and back. For the back all you need is a Post Mount +20 adapter like you’d use on a fork. Mine is labelled ps160 to ps180. I did have to space the rear mount slightly as it was catching on the new HS2 rotor but the original set up had a washer under each end of the...