Not really Levo specific but after bashing my AXS derailleur battery on a rock and breaking the retention tab off I was able to make a very sturdy and serviceable repair using JB Weld epoxy. Just build up a large enough glob in the spot then filed it into shape after it cured. So far it is...
Of course you are. It’s pretty much the best dropper in the market!!! I run the AXS which I am very happy with but the price and max 170mm is not for everyone.
The X-Fusion Manic dropper post on the Expert is a very cheap post for the price point of this model IMO. They are notorious for failing and even when they work it’s not impressive but serviceable. Not a day-1 need but I’d plan to replace it someday.
I don't think the Expert wheels are much of an upgrade. They are Roval Traverse vs Roval. They are decent wheels with DT Swiss 370 hubs and Ratchet-LN internals. The hubs are bulletproof but I've had issues with the spokes breaking. They do work fine out of the box but I would not 'upgrade'...
I bought the Expert on sale and it doesn't need any upgrades as it comes with the Fox 38 Performance Elite and very decent kit. I did the math on the Comp Carbon and it would have cost more to upgrade everything from that bike vs getting the Expert. The only part that is sub par are the...
Stupidly broke off my charging port door dropping the battery for the aforementioned bearing service. Duct tape and 20mil tape didn’t work well but black Flex-Seal tape repaired it like a charm. This will easily hold until I can get a replacement.
Each frame size has a 10mm incremental size increase of the headtube length. An S3 has 115mm Headtube, so an S4 would have 10mm less spacers to work with for example.
I only wanted to slide the chain stay back far enough to clean and grease the bearings as they did not need replacing. Yes, I had to remove the battery but I did not remove any cables. Hopefully I didn’t screw anything up.
I guess I figured it out. You need to drop the motor enough to lower the “dog bone” link thing and you need to slide inward the main pivot sleeves as they stick out partially into the chainstay. Sort of a hassle compared to servicing a typical FSR analog bike.
I cannot really figure out how to remove the chainstay after removing the main pivot bolts. I can’t tell if it’s just the cable housing guides and friction keeping it from sliding free or if I need to remove something else. I just want to access the bearings.
Everything works except the Smart Power and Smart HR features. They have released the Levociraptor 3 in Europe that works with the Mastermind for Smart features. Waiting for the USA release.
I had noises coming from my Stumpjumper FSA headset. The thing would just not perform properly. I also had the Enduro which many people reported issues with the frame headset cups. I immediately swapped out the FSA headset on both those bikes w/ Chris King and never had another problem. This...
I traced a troubling rattle to the wiring harness under the TCU. I zip tied some of the wires together and made it fit tighter and the rattle disappeared.
Hmm…not a lot of actual data there. It’s so new. I guess we will see. It sounds like some bikes might support this in a more integrated way. If it was anything like wiring a light to the Brose motor I certainly would not opt for that.
I cannot find any information about this “extension cord” part online. Very curious to know more about this.
I’d defiantly NOT convert to using this cable for daily usage as the rechargeable batteries are very easy and even though I have run out of juice more more than once it defeats a good...