Depending on where you ride and in what conditions ( rough , rocky, jumps, mud, water ....ie UK conditions!!) you may want to consider the wisdom of any bike using a "cutaway" downtube to house a heavy battery that is sat on its main connector pins. Most of these systems allow mud and water or...
The same criterea applies choosing any mtb whether electric or not really. It needs to suit your type of riding and it needs to fit you.................and of course you have to like the look of it!!
When you add into that the fact that it is an EMTB, as others have said, there will be aspects...
Were the bearings up a gainst a bearing spacer sleeve or a machined recess? If it is bearing spacer sleeve it should move out the way enough to access the outer race. What can stop it moving slightly out of the way is if both bearings are still in place hard up against each end of the...
A rattle means something is loose. It may help to know if it is a metallic sound and has it just started. A metallic sound could be headset or a loose pivot bearing or worn shock fixings. Possibly a loose crank.
There would surely be signs of oil leak or pressure loss if that was the case?
Ps I have x2 on my Whyte E180 which is 2.5 years old and works really well.....same rear triangle design as Levo but probably the leverage angles are different
I noticed some free play when lifting the back end of my E160 RSX and on closer inspection found that to be due the bolt that secures the back of the shock to the shape it yolk being very loose.
It is probably possible to tighten it in situ but not enough room to use a torque wrench. I decided...
No...my bikes use DTSwiss ratchet XD feehubs.
I was surmising that for the cassette to unscrew from the freehub......its a standard thread......the freehub would need to turn with the wheel whilst the cassette is not turning (ie freewheeling). That could be momentary but enough to start...
Thats a battery connection error. What year is the bike?If it is pre 2021 the most likely issue is the battery to motor cable. If later check the Rosenberger connection ( charge port/battery to motor cable connection) for dirt etc and that the srpung loaded 2 main pins are not jammed.
cleaning the chain is far more important than what lube to use. Regardless whether you use Mucoff or 3in1 it is not lack of lubrication that causes wear on the pins and rollers............it is dust/sand/mud etc. Far too much advice on this topic derives from road bikes that are not used in...
agreed....I tried clipless just out of curiosity and the worst aspect is that they position your feet too far forward on the pedals. Most of the time with flats my feet are much further forward on the pedal, especially when up on the pedals on downhill runs.
I use the Park Tool "spatula" type tool together with a flat plastic covered handle of ( in my case) a wire trimmer tool. The plastic covered handle goes against the piston so it is protected and the width of that plus the "spatula" means that leverage by the spatula begins straight away. Note...
my guess.............nothing to do with crank length..........everything to do with cockpit fit. Compare your stance, especially in the ready position, with your other bikes. Most likely is reach too long and/or bar height too low.
GX chain costs c £25....X01 chain costs £60, it has a hardened coating on the links........but its the pins that wear!............XX1 is hollow pins and stupid money. X01 chain possibly does double the mileage of a GX chain. Do the £ maths!!
chain wear obviously depends on a range of...
I have used Hope cranks and Hope Jockey wheels...both with good results. Based on experience of other bikes ( not mine) I dont rate their hubs.........much prefer DT Swiss. Not interested in fancy colours which is what seems to attract most buyers.