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Yeah the DTs are much better hubs! Good luck hope you silence that creak 👍

I would give the rear hub a service...the Bontrager hubs aren't particularly weather proof and need fairly regular servicing. If the hub has dried out it will creak and the noise is difficult to trace

It would depend on the trails...most of my riding, I'm just using the motor to get me back to the top so I can bomb down again...in these scenarios it wouldn't matter much if the assistance cuts out earlier. We are lucky though, here in NZ, with the 32kph limit, the 25kph imposed in the UK and...

I have a 27.5 wheel I could try but I'm scared l'll really like it and I've already invested heavily in my 29er wheelset 🤣

The Rockguardz one looks good, I could do with one of those, I've got a few chips out of the cooling fins on the motor housing from rock strikes

The tool in the video is here : https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bearing-puller I've recently used these tools to change all the frame bearings on my Rail, I did find I needed to tighten the nut more than I thought I would to get the tool to grip the inner race, first few attempts the...

The wind-out extractors are a new addition and weren't available when I bought my tools. The only place you'll be able to use those however is on the rocker / seatstay pivot, the rocker/upper shock mount and possibly the lower shock mount too. The same tool will do all of these bearings...

I've recently replaced all the frame bearings on my Rail. I got all the extractors and presses from Jim at BearingProTools. Really helpful with any questions etc, tools are well priced. I have a couple of the RRP tools as well, but found the BearingPro kit more useful, especially on the lower...

The question about the dropper post did not take into account whether the owner had swapped out the original dropper for one with more travel.

Is your new bearing FSA or something else?

Here are the bearing sizes, if you want them, I believe the Cane Creek Hellbender series will fit if you're after something of higer quality, but if you slap plenty of marine grease around the oem bearings last quite well...

There are no headset cups...the Rails have integrated headsets meaning the bearings drop straight into the frame...

Yes you're right, there is a small gap, and the balls are visible. Packing with grease definitely does a good job of protecting them though.

Yes you must have overtorqued it, it's only 4nm on the top cap, just enough to preload the bearings...maybe time to invest in a small torque wrench? 😉

That's extremely odd the seal came off your top bearing...no idea at all what could cause that...being an integrated headset the bearings just drop in, I then just slap some marine grease around to weather proof...the bearings used are a common headset size, (identical to those used on my 2017...

I checked my headset recently, they look like sealed bearings to me...a bit different to the frame bearings since they're angular contact, but still sealed...I use grease as a barrier to keep the water out. Bearings still felt smooth after 2 years of riding.

@Stihldog thanks for that, I think mine is chipped in a similar place to your pic, I'll take to it gently with a smooth file

Could you expand on this please? I have damage to some of my cooling fins and definitely don't want cracks in the motor casing

If you look at the parts diagram, the speed sensor has the same part number as stated on the website you took a screenshot of... W582244 - so I would say you've got the right part https://www.emtbforums.com/community/threads/trek-rail-parts-diagram-carbon.12997/

@Doug Stampfer I think with the smaller wheel your mileage will not be accurate and your assistance will drop out earlier - the computer will think youre doing 32kmh but your actual speed will be less than that. You can get an angle meter app on your phone which will measure the head angle...