Just charge it up to full and get out and ride, if it comes back with 30, 20 or only 5% left I don't think it matters in the long run, and if you completely run out, hope it's mostly a downhill ride home
My approach is to fully charge the battery the day I'm riding (or the night before) and avoid going below the last 20% too often. Most of my rides would use 60-70% capacity (of a 500), so it works well for me and I haven't noticed any drop off in range in just over 3000km. Still keen to get a...
With only a week Queenstown is probably the best base as you can also go to Cardrona at Wanaka
and over to Alexandra from there easily (less than an hours drive to either)
As far as i know, the Christchurch Adventure park won't let the bikes up the chairlift with the battery in.
Best track I can think of for sessioning on an ebike would be Rude Rock at Coronet Peak in Queenstown - lots of smooth berms with a sealed road for the climb
At 125kg/275lb I'm running Cushcore front and back and using BLCK DMND casing on the rear. One flat from a burped tyre in 3000km, no rim damage at all.
It's fine, you could cut it shorter by a cm, but what is it doing on the right side of the bar? You wouldn't notice it if the lever was underneath on the left side of the bar where they are normally mounted.
Osprey Talon 44 in Large looks like it will work. It's long enough and has a floating top so you could wrap the battery in some protection (Bubble wrap?) and still get it in without going diagonally. It's still a long load, so maybe not for a short rider, but if you're tall it should work ok...
SLik Graphics are good for custom fork decals etc, and if you want invisible protection the BK Stickers are easy to use bkprotect - bkstickers.com
Also if you want the Specialized Hyper green colour, ask for Pantone 389C
The All Mountain Style frame guards are a good way to give you some colour and protect the frame at the same time. I used them on my last two bikes, just work out which size kit(s) you'll need to cover the bike the way you want - front of down tube and top of top tube are the main ones.
I'm at about these settings using 20/35, 40/60 and 60/100. At 125kg I'm putting a fair load through the cranks and I found using Turbo at 100% assist was no faster than 60% (on timed climbs) which suggests I was reaching the limits of the motor.
For me the keys to maximum range on my Levo are turning down the ECO so it basically accounts for the weight of the bike (20% in my case) and making sure when climbing I use all the low gears before increasing the assistance on steeper bits. However if it's just a short ride, I'm more likely to...
Hopefully Specialized develop a bottle-based extra battery system like they have on the Creo for future Levos. Having a 700wh in the frame and say a 350 in a bottle form, means for a big trip you could put 1050 on the bike and perhaps carry another 350 in a back pack. That would give me a...
I'd go for the bigger battery. If you need a spare for a longer trip, you can probably rent one - my shop said they'll lend me one for free if I had a big trip to do.
I've got the 19 Comp and yes it will take the 700 Wh battery - it will cost more as an upgrade, but could be worth it depending on the terrain you are riding (how far and how steep) and your weight and fitness/strength.
As for the motor issues, only Specialized (or any manufacturer) could tell...
I've had one instance on my 19 Comp where at the top of a 20 minute climb, pushing quite a high gear in Turbo, the bike suddenly felt like I was pulling a trailer. There was no noise to speak of and when I checked the app the motor wasn't too hot, so I turned it off, cycled the cranks a few...