I understand the original focus of choppers has been lost - there was a good reason that we can understand. Think of long wheelbase yank tanks of the day - huge distances between front and rear wheels makes for a really comfy ride on those long straight expanses of American roadways that used to...
cross king might be a better fit for what he is riding. SquireRides suggested vittoria mezcal - that looks like an awesome softroader with that easy rolling centre ridge, and still high volume. The mk is also high volume - just much more open tread which makes it more off road.
I've done 500km and so far so good. I did by an extra 3; I thought the same as you and they are so cheap. One thing that people don't seem to hear or understand though, is that these rings (probably all the cheapies) look reversible. This means when the ring does eventually show wear, I should...
Because you're in Australia, I will say that Merida are one of the best value bikes to buy here. I have the e140 LTD (aluminium) and love it. I don't wish or want for anything more. I use it pretty much to it's limits without causing damage. The e140 is more trail oriented than the majority of...
There's a couple of things; rear bearings (non sealed) always need servicing before front - they just don't last as long. There will be some flex in your wheel - you can feel loose bearing though. Loose bearings are a pita to adjust too :ROFLMAO:; it is usually a trial and error thing. I adjust...
If someone is interested in steel I also found this. I emailed the seller who assures me these are good for 12x - for some reason most chain ring sellers are averse to saying what they are compatible with :unsure:. I should also mention that 32 teeth is as small as you can go with the 104 bcd...
I don't have any play in my wheels. I have 5 bikes - my ebike (being the newest) is the only one with sealed bearings. All the others are non sealed. Sealed bearings are much easier to live with. Loose bearings have to be cleaned, greased then adjusted, probably 500 to 1000 km; a lot less if...
I wouldn't put pressure on the front - you want the front to roll up easily. You might even be able to add a bit of lift to the front. So one hand on the front, just to steer and a finger on the brake. With your other arm over the bike and your hand below the seat post (or on the seat post). You...
I have a merida e140 that had shimano 34 - I have 32 on it now. No problem for me. It was cheap, and looks like it could be reversible (twice the life). I bought a few more just in case. Because I mostly use eco - I use the lowest gears often. I bought this. I had trouble finding cheap ones that...
I think I remember them. You had to undo a collar to remove the valve? The only gauges those days were at gas stations or those pen like gauges; the rest of us, just thumb pressure :). You could pump them up at gas stations if you held a few layers of handkerchief over the valve - a trick I've...
I thought the obvious logical answer is a smaller hole in your rim. A hole in the rim is a weakness. Where the rim joins is also a weakness, and not surprisingly often where there is a buckle.
For sure, that's the theory. Use grease and a greater force is applied to the threads. Don't use grease and less force is applied to the threads. Both these examples would show the same torque setting on your tool. As I found with the teflon tape though, you can easily apply too much force...
Gee, that sort of track (fast and rough, not tight) I thought the full 29" would have romped it in. I wonder how the wheels hold up with that riding? I suppose longevity isn't his problem.
It's a good starting point, to consider where you do most of your riding. I bought my bike according to that - a trail bike equally good (supposedly) for climbing and ascending and tight technical stuff. I still have enough bike for those annual two week visits to derby, but maybe 2 mins slower...
Not with those particular ones, you would need a tube to hold the tannus in position hard up against the walls and tread of the tyre. Without the tube the tannus would be useless. They do make a tubeless option - different design.
It took me a while - I thought assistance in trail mode was related to cadence. The fact that trail mode is dynamic didn't really gel. It is dynamic :ROFLMAO:. What that meant for me is that at a higher cadence I wasn't getting much assistance, at a lower cadence I was. I must have been...
For sure. There's a bit of a theme going on here though with crank arms coming loose. The same thing is happening over in the shimano forum. I agree with you - I either lube or use loctite; with these I'd use loctite. I'm also going to clean the ends of the crank shaft and crank arms and use...
With grease on the threads there is much more force applied to the threads at the same torque setting! I'd try to clean it all out by twisting a small piece of rag soaked in petrol (wear gloves) through the threaded holes. Clean the bolts too. Keep using little bits of clean rag till they don't...