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^ thanks, I really would have needed a tool like that

No

It could be that the cable has not clicked properly also on the motor end when it was installed. Checking this requires dropping the motor. That’s not difficult but requires the chainring tool - see a separate thread about this.

No there’s not - that’s how the ep8 is built

I got used to the ep8 rattle, not a problem anymore. Not that far from the typical internal cable rattle on maaaaany bikes.

I also removed the chain guide recently and no chain drops so far. Will change to 34t ring as well.

So one can move the magnet pretty easily - how easy is it to move the sensor? Asking for a friend… ?

Ride it first without and order one later if you need it. Trivial solution imo ?

My two cents after dropping the motor successfully yesterday. First of all a big thanks for all who have contributed in this thread! - I used the Shimano TL-FC39 tool with a Pro Hollowtech wrench. No issues here. - The small cables did not move at all with fingers. I was already about to buy...

Managed to cut the cable finally. I messed up the first attempt and pulled the outer cable too far into the seat tube so I had to drop the motor off to readjust the cable. I am posting some lessons learned about this into the chainring thread. About the cable - it seems to unwind easily after...

^ Orbea did the right thing here imo. At least I would be more happy to get the bike asap even with different components than waiting for months and months to get the exact spec. Of course they need to inform and compensate the customers.

Thanks! An idea occured to me reading this - could I strip and cut the outer cable from the lever end, without cutting the inner cable? Since the outer cable is plastic and inner metal, this should be doable with precision and care. Then I wouldn't have to touch the dropper post at all.

My M10 XL dropper post cable seems to be too long which pulls the motor switch cable too tight. Anybody else have this problem? These cables are also not clamped to the frame so they move and rattle which I would like to fix. Can I remove the dropper post and cut the cable shorter? I have never...

The rule ?

I also changed the pedals to slimmer ones and that helped too + shoe traction improved (OneUp aluminium)

170mm does feel more powerfull than 165mm but the pedal strikes are too common with the 170mm for me. Too early to say if 5mm makes a real difference…

It felt like you reaaaaally are spinning them ?

Installed today first the 160mm cranks. They felt quite weird so I installed the 165mm ones immediatelly without properly even riding the 160mm ones. These ones feel better so gonna try these ones first.

Just replaced the 5cm stem with a 6cm stem. Just a quick 5 min ride but it's amazing how much a 1cm increase can feel different. Hard to say yet if I like it or not, need to give it a proper trail ride first. I have an XL M10 and the reach has felt a bit short - I am 189cm.

Thanks. That's a good advice. The e13 cranks are cheap enough so I might as well keep both of them. I haven't luckily had any issues with the factory installed cranks falling off - knock on wood!