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Yeah, that term works MUCH better with other test setups like wine or audio than with bikes :)

Yes of course this is the path, if one really wants to reduce the total bike weight - then one has to go over every component. But if it's just the cranks, then it's irrelevant imo.

Here https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/firmware/detail.html?model=DU-EP800

^ probably none, if everything works fine. Shimano should do a better job in communicating release notes and advice in general whether it's recommended to upgrade or not.

Less than 100 grams that low on an emtb hardly makes any differences. Nobody could notice the difference when riding in a blindfold test setup.

^ Damn. Did you upgrade via the mobile app and bluetooth? I have ordered the Shimano diagnostics box for research purposes ;) and plan to do all firmware upgrades via that and a PC.

Can you please elaborate this test? I have always noticed drag or something when pedaling with zero assist in my M10. I have thought this is just a feature of an emtb…

I just ordered the EM600. 38€ on BikeDiscount.

The title of the thread can be misleading, since it could be a commuter bike instead of a Rise like bike. I edited it.

What is a 'computer bike'? Did you mean commuter bike? :)

Heard this yesterday from a local Orbea dealer. New Orbea hardtail model with the EP8 RS motor. Both aluminium and carbon frame options. If this is true, well played Orbea.

Thanks a lot! I actually don’t like the XT glossy look versus the e13. These EM600 look similar to e13 with more matte look.

How are the EM600 cranks compared to M8150? If one is not a weight weenie, would the EM600 be a good purchase?

Thanks, two great tips!

I just installed the AXS to my M10. Since the white b-cap tool doesn’t work with the Shimano cassette, I decided to file off some plastic from it so that it fits/works. Question to others - have you all adjusted the b-cap on the sag position, i.e. have had somebody else help you with it by...

Somebody apparently has 3D printed plugs for the frame holes. There was a mention about this on one Fb Rise forum. I wonder if he's around here... :)

I wonder if one could stuff the cable housing inside the frame and leave small parts of it outside the frame in a clean way? This would allow switching back to cable shifter easily.

Those who have upgraded to the AXS wireless shifter, what have you done with the cable holes in the frame? Have you plugged them somehow or maybe left the cable inside the frame?

I assume the AXS can be calibrated for 11 or 10 speeds cassetes? Since I practically never use the largest sprockets, I am thinking about changing the cassete to a smaller one. Any caveats in this plan?

What hub and cassette did you get? Just ordered the upgrade kit :cool: