If you haven't looked lately, SWorks Levo is now $14,000. I'll let that sink in for a second.
SWorks frame only $8500, Expert Carbon $10,500 and all prices are USD
I haven't been following the SL pricing, but looks like there might have been some adjustments there as well.
Good thing the...
I guess I Levo'd my Kenevo? Comp with 700 wHr battery, 29 wheels F/R, 170/29 Lyrik up front, swapped out everything else as well. Bike is amazing everywhere.
Out of the two you mention definitely the WAO. Incredible ride quality and the only wheels I have found comparable are the SC Reserves which you can't find anyplace.
I have WAO Unions, SC Reserve 30's and Roval carbon 30's in my garage right now for comparisons. Have had Enve's previously and...
If the money makes a difference to you then pass on it. AXS works really well, but it won't improve your ride at all. Money is better spent on the best wheels you can find, but if this is a bling build then go for it.
My gut is that a new RD is going to fix the issue.
To address some of the other ideas, a bent hangar wouldn't stop it from shifting to the bottom two cogs without issues everywhere else on the cassette. That being said, EVERY new bike I have looked at has an alignment issue out of the box...
Actually the new SJ Evo leverage ratio works really well with a coil and it has a layout similar to the Kenevo. There is something about the longer travel and packaging that causes some challenges, but that is specifically around the axle path and not the leverage ratio.
The shock being...
Been on the Kenevo for a while with an air rear shock. It works really, really well. Current setup for me is a Fox X2, but the best thing you could do is get the shock and fork custom tuned. Not sure if you are in the US or UK, but here in the US Fluid Focus does awesome work. Full bench...
Anyone remember how much the Kenevo Expert was previously? I saw the Levo Comp with the 700 wHr battery go from $4800 > $6500 about a month ago. Some crazy price increases, but if they sell as fast as they can make them, that is the market price.
The Kenevo can motor up just about anything stock, not sure reducing the height of the fork would make a difference. Forks that could change travel used to be a thing a few years ago, but there were a lot of compromises so they thankfully faded away.
The current Specialized design definitely puts more stress on the shock. I think what Specialized trying to say, ineloquently, is that the extra stress combined with poor setup is causing the failures. If the springs are within standard parameters of preload and spring weight there are far...
I saw the same thing, looks like it cracked right down center of the TT in front of the seatpost. Either way, after an impact like that I would get the whole bike checked over very carefully. 100% replace the stem and bars whether they look damaged or not.
If you want crisper shifting you need to upgrade the RD. The differences between levels in Sram have significantly tighter tolerances as you move up the line. I have the full line of them in my garage from NX to XX1 including AXS.
Easiest thing to do though is upgrade to 11 spd XT. I bought...
If you have sag set properly then increasing volume spacers is the right solution. The Cascade link will help by making the bike more progressive as well and also make the bike more plush earlier in the stroke.
One last thought is that the upper jockey wheel might be out of spec or the RD hanger might be out of alignment. It seems to be sticking to the same tooth every time on the jockey wheel (it is rythmic when you speed up the spinning) which points to an issue with a single tooth.
I do always...
In your video you can see the chain sticking to the upper jockey wheel and being pulled down. I would try turning the B tension screw in a turn or two to move it slightly farther away from the cogs.
Second thought is that the chain looks very dry. You might have "over cleaned" it when trying...
For the heavier riders our there you will get much more out of a custom tune on your rear shock compared to something like the Cascade link. Standard valving is tailored to rider weights from 150-200 lbs. Outside of that range you will not see the best from the shock without changing the shim...
You are fine clamping the dropper post as long as it is at full extension. If you have it dropped at all, hanging it or clamping it by the post/seat will force air past the IFP causing the post to sag.
The better way to do it is clamp it by the portion below the seal of the post if you have it...