Worth going tubeless?

[Beekeeper]

For several years I’ve run tubes with Tannus armour and never had a puncture. Bike is kept outside in a metal bike shed and is exposed to wide fluctuations of temperature throughout the year. Current tyres (Nobby Nics) are perishing and tiny cracks across the surface like crazy paving. I’m assuming this is to do with the oven-like conditions in the bike shed during the summer and sub zero temps in winter.
So I bought some new tyres (Smart Sam). Thinking about trying a tubeless set up with them as I would then lose a lot of weight from not having the heavy Tannus armour or tubes.
My concerns however are..

1) the new tyres are probably not tubeless ready (Schwalbe Smart Sams, but at least my rims are.
2) Apparently sealant only lasts 6 months before it loses effectiveness
3). The wide temperature fluctuations in the bike shed could cause the sealant to dry out quickly and therefore I’ll need add more sealant / remove old sealant etc etc.

My Tannus set up is maintenance free but at a cost of some weight.

Is it really worth the hassle of going tubeless with these new tyres or should I just stick to the tubes and Tannus?

 

[JStrube]

I went tubeless on my MTB almost 20 years ago, and would NEVER put a tube in, unless I had a really bad flat on a ride. Once, I picked up a 16d nail, the other, I actually tore the bead on the tire on volcanic rock.

Tubeless with Tannus will let you run a bit lower pressure as well. It will be cushier than tubes, and tannus, and just as protective. Or, you could just go tubeless altogether. I run the Tannus inserts.

 

[RustyMTB]

Couple of things; you'll probably get more than six months efficacy out of a dose of sealant & it can always be topped up. It won't evaporate, your tires a pretty closed system. Smart Sams don't have a great reputation around here. They were original fitment on the Decathlon Stilus, most of us got rid of them sharpish, did you keep the receipt?

Generally, tubeless is a very good move, it really works well on MTB as noted above & I'd encourage anyone to do it.

 

[mike_kelly]

I went tubeless and it leaks like a sieve. Shop could not figure out why. I have to pump them up before every ride. Going back to tubes.

 

[Plummet]

I went tubeless and it leaks like a sieve. Shop could not figure out why. I have to pump them up before every ride. Going back to tubes.

Unless you have dented rim and porous tires the only place it can be is rim taping.

Its happened to me many time. The fix is to Re-tape the rim and that will fix it.

 

[Plummet]

For several years I’ve run tubes with Tannus armour and never had a puncture. Bike is kept outside in a metal bike shed and is exposed to wide fluctuations of temperature throughout the year. Current tyres (Nobby Nics) are perishing and tiny cracks across the surface like crazy paving. I’m assuming this is to do with the oven-like conditions in the bike shed during the summer and sub zero temps in winter.
So I bought some new tyres (Smart Sam). Thinking about trying a tubeless set up with them as I would then lose a lot of weight from not having the heavy Tannus armour or tubes.
My concerns however are..

1) the new tyres are probably not tubeless ready (Schwalbe Smart Sams, but at least my rims are.
2) Apparently sealant only lasts 6 months before it loses effectiveness
3). The wide temperature fluctuations in the bike shed could cause the sealant to dry out quickly and therefore I’ll need add more sealant / remove old sealant etc etc.

My Tannus set up is maintenance free but at a cost of some weight.

Is it really worth the hassle of going tubeless with these new tyres or should I just stick to the tubes and Tannus?

Tubeless is a pain in the arse. But it does save weight and punctures. It makes for more reliable rides.

I would say if you want to use tubeless, don't scrimp on non tubess tyres. Get the tubless tires.

If I go back to tubes i get too many punctures. So tubless it is for me.

Yes the good does dry out over time. Just pump more in through the valve stem.
I'm off to change 2 tubeles tires right now. Lets see how long it takes.

Starting 3, 2,1 Go!

 

[Plummet]

Tubeless is a pain in the arse. But it does save weight and punctures. It makes for more reliable rides.

I would say if you want to use tubeless, don't scrimp on non tubess tyres. Get the tubless tires.

If I go back to tubes i get too many punctures. So tubless it is for me.

Yes the good does dry out over time. Just pump more in through the valve stem.
I'm off to change 2 tubeles tires right now. Lets see how long it takes.

Starting 3, 2,1 Go!

Done....

Ok j had lunch aswell. And didnt have to fit a tannus in these.

 

[Doug Stampfer]

I have to pump up my tyres with tubes before I go & ride & I have to pump up my tyres with tubeless before I go for a ride. Tubeless is good with gorse apart from that not much difference

 

[Bob Orbea Rise]

Don’t see the point in tubeless as such but do see the benefit of the cushcore element. But they are expensive and are designed around downhill racing and stopping pinch flats mostly? Ive never had a pinch flat but I do get a lot of punctures from thorns. In fact it’s always bloody thorns from hawthorn bushes.

So you still get the punctures it’s just a question of if the sealant works. And after a few months it doesn’t seal. No point as I don’t need the Cush core and the stans sealant is hit and miss.

So I use tubes but use a sealant in them. Weldtite specific for tubes. Cheaper with some protection, and the mess is contained , it does need topping up though… but I’d rather use a tyre with a protective bead in it like the Schwalbe marathon but in a specific Mtb tyre. No idea why that’s not available in a mountain bike tyre. Maybe it’s not flexible enough. But the ones I had on my old bike never flatted on all terrain they were just hopeless in mud obviously.

There still is no ideal answer imo

 

[steve_sordy]

If you run proper tubeless tyres then use a non-latex sealant because it doesn't dry out like latex sealants do. Because you will still get punctures and lose some sealant each time, you will still have to top up the sealant from time to time. The downside of non-latex sealant is that if you use it on no-tubeless tyres it takes longer to seal the tyre walls. You just have to be patient. I leave the wheel/tyre horizontal on a bucket for an hour or so each side (shaking vigorously before each lay down), under at least 40psi to help press the sealant into the tyre wall.

If you run tyres that are not specifically tubeless, then they will probably leak air through the tyre walls. I know, that sounds crazy right? How does air get through a rubber wall? But I have seen air leaking through micro pores in a tyre and foaming the soapy liquid that I had used to get the tyre on the rim. It looked like thousands of white mini volcanoes erupting all over the tyre! Anyway, with tyres that are not tubeless, use a latex sealant because it is much faster at sealing the tyre walls. If the sealant does not run out sooner because of all the punctures you have had, it will dry out over 3-6 months depending upon the climate in your area.

So whichever sealant and tyre combo you use, you will still have to top it up. If you don't keep your eye on it, then you will run out and then get a flat on the trail, and probably blame the sealant! I keep my eye on it by checking tyre pressure before every ride with a digital pressure gauge. Any more than 1-2 psi loss over several days is a sign that the sealant is losing its effectiveness.

 

[sstenzz]

I used to get punctures and it ruined my rides, since switching to tubeless I haven't had a ride ruined by punctures for 4 years.

 

[Binhill1]

I had a first flat puncture today on front can't remember when I put the slime in 6 months ago maybe . Still swirling about inside tube but not pumping up so put new tube in to get home. Big thorn inside the tyre I had to take it out with my teeth so I will be carrying a wee pliers from now on . Went to fill the néw tube with slime when I got home to find halfords valves are not removable.

 

[steve_sordy]

I had a first flat puncture today on front can't remember when I put the slime in 6 months ago maybe . Still swirling about inside tube but not pumping up so put new tube in to get home. Big thorn inside the tyre I had to take it out with my teeth so I will be carrying a wee pliers from now on . Went to fill the néw tube with slime when I got home to find halfords valves are not removable.

Why do you need to put more Slime in the tube?
The thorn in the tyre obviously kept re-puncturing the tube.
Once the thorn is removed the tube should seal.

Unless of course all the Slime leaked out of the tube and into the tyre.

Get rid of the tube, commit to the healing power of a sealant!

 

[Binhill1]

Why do you need to put more Slime in the tube?
The thorn in the tyre obviously kept re-puncturing the tube.
Once the thorn is removed the tube should seal.

Unless of course all the Slime leaked out of the tube and into the tyre.

Get rid of the tube, commit to the healing power of a sealant!

No I stopped when it went flat and took the thorn out. But it just wouldn't pump up or seal . I was pumping it up testing it without putting it back inside the tire not sure if that makes a difference but thinking aboutit nowit probablydoes . I put a patch on but there was another leak beside an old patch so I put a new tube in . Still plenty slime in the old tube I tried with the big pump at home but no joy it still wouldn'tseal. I had a half flat on rear about a month ago just a mile from home so carried on . It pumped up next day and its still ok now the slime has been in that at least a year . Strange one I thought. I was trying to put slime in the new tube I put in but valve doesn't come out on halfords tube. Sunny day so it was no big deal. I might just put it back the tyre the morn and see ìf that works . Still not going back to tubeless though.

 

[steve_sordy]

The big advantage of Slime is that it doesn't go off. I had Slime in tubes for years and years. Later on, I used Slime in tyres with similar results. But Slime is not good in tyres that are not meant to be tubeless. For that latex sealants are much better.

 

[steve_sordy]

No removable valve core in a Slime tube! Now that is either penny-pinching to the extreme, or a calculated tactic to increase Slime-tube sales.

 

[Binhill1]

The big advantage of Slime is that it doesn't go off. I had Slime in tubes for years and years. Later on, I used Slime in tyres with similar results. But Slime is not good in tyres that are not meant to be tubeless. For that latex sealants are much better.

Front is a spesh hillbilly i think not sure. . Rear minion 3 month old really worn down already

 

[Binhill1]

No removable valve core in a Slime tube! Now that is either penny-pinching to the extreme, or a calculated tactic to increase Slime-tube sales.

Well it's a halfords own brand . The one that was on maxis.

 

[Matt van]

I have just done my first ride with good tyres and tubeless. holy moly, this needs to be the first thing we do. I had the original tyres pumped up to 60psi to not get pinch flats and they would bounce off any rock. today was just plush and grippy Maxxis agressors 29 x 2.5

 

[Plummet]

I have just done my first ride with good tyres and tubeless. holy moly, this needs to be the first thing we do. I had the original tyres pumped up to 60psi to not get pinch flats and they would bounce off any rock. today was just plush and grippy Maxxis agressors 29 x 2.5

For the record. No mountain bike tire needs to be pumped to 60psi ever. You should run the same pressures tube v tubeless.
If you are pinch flatting on tubes you will be denting rims tubeless.

 

[Matt van]

For the record. No mountain bike tire needs to be pumped to 60psi ever. You should run the same pressures tube v tubeless.
If you are pinch flatting on tubes you will be denting rims tubeless.

yes sort of agree but I think to pinch flat a tube is only a small amount of pressure needed to make this happen, but the pressure needed to bend the rim will be a lot higher

 

[jcarlson9]

Is there a video on how to change tubeless tires?

 

[JStrube]

Is there a video on how to change tubeless tires?

So for Road Tubeless, huge stiffness issues, for your MTB, it is exactly the same as having a tube.

 

[mike_kelly]

The hidden cost of tubeless is having to "refresh" the sealant in as short a time as 30-40 days. Ridiculous.

 

[rzr]

my rear tire doesn't last 2 months, so no probs, I add sealant every 2-3 months I guess.
And never had problems on analog bike before (I run all my bikes tubeless for ~12y now, road bike as well).

I run tubeless mainly to use inserts (and avoid small annoying punctures?).
not cushcores, but some inserts up to 100g each.

 

[JP-NZ]

The hidden cost of tubeless is having to "refresh" the sealant in as short a time and 30-40 days. Ridiculous.

I haven't touched the sealant in my Rail since I got it from the LBS and I've had it for 13 months... No flats, no issues

 

[mtb-steve]

The hidden cost of tubeless is having to "refresh" the sealant in as short a time and 30-40 days. Ridiculous.

I don't touch or refill my sealant for the life of the tyre, take the tyre off and it's still got sealant inside, I did have one tyre get very low but it'd had a few big punctures and lost a fair bit.

 

[Matt van]

The hidden cost of tubeless is having to "refresh" the sealant in as short a time and 30-40 days. Ridiculous.

whats this 30 - 40 day you talk about, I put 100-150ml in my wheel when I set it up and add about 80-100ml when it wont stay at the pressure I set it before my ride for the length of the days ride, or approx 6 months. and generally do that until I need a new tyre 1-2 years

 

[mike_kelly]

From the Orange sealant site:

Stan's
If you are using our standard Stan’s Tire Sealant, top off your sealant every 2-7 months through your valve stem

 

[Husky430]

Tubeless all the way, last 2 ride, through really rocky terrain, I've had 2 non-flats. This is where when I get home and I'm give the steed the 'once over' I've noticed a small sticky patch, covered in dirt etc, that is the sealant on the outside of the tyre where it has plug a puncture. I've not noticed a thing during the ride, exactly how it should be.