Whyte e-mtb

[Sam E180]

Yes mate, it’s doing ok. Interestingly I fitted a 600lb spring last week which has brought my sag to 25% ish and completely stopped pedal strikes. Bike also feels much more lively which suits my riding style.

I prefer the mod you are doing with the second notch on the motor cover. I’ll probably do that when my cable gets a bit “sticky”.

Have some of this picture ?

 

[nosuchuser]

Had a bit of a fiddle with the rear shock this evening (and installed 14 pins to replace the ones lost from the v12s over the last few rides......) and I'm now on 240psi to get 27ish % sag. Seems a lot.

Rebound was 2 clicks from slowest so middled it and will see how that plays out. Hopefully more poppy.

 

[Kilham5]

My gear cable re-routing

The first image shows my initial attempts to route the gear cable though the same opening as the brake hose.
I attempted this twice, however the space in the frame behind that silver motor housing bracket was too restricted.
I got the outer cable in, and looked good, but there must be too much of a pinch, as the inner cable would not pass this point.
I was also not happy with both cable and brake hose passing through the same small hole. It forced the hose against the edge of the hole despite my best endeavours to retain the rubber grommet. Not happy that the suspension movement would probably cause chaffing of the brake hose against the hole in the frame.
Others have had success doing this routing, but on my frame (Small) it is too restrictive.
Not happy look at alternative routing.

So went for the alternative routing (as done by Whybro's LBS) of routing through a second notch in the motor cover.
Very easy.
I cut a comfortable notch approx 20mm lower than the speed sensor position, using a Dremel to do a neat job, but a Stanley knife and hacksaw would suffice.There appears plenty of space in there, only time will tell if it moves and compromises the cables which it passes.

With both these options we have the compromise that the gear cable has to cross the swingarm from non-drive side to drive-side.
Not helped by having to secure the cable to the cross brace at the pivot point. These inevitable tight radii definitely compromise the shift performance, it works, but definitely more resistance on the shifter. Probably the reason Whyte routed the original the way they did.

The end result looks clean and neat

Notes:
Only time will tell if the shift performance is compromised. It seems okay so far.
If it does prove problematic I will either revert to original, or wait till cassette wears out and upgrade to AXS.

Tips.
Clean the bike before you start, makes the job easier, and clean up inside while all the covers are off.
When you remove the original outer, leave the inner cable in place to use as a guide to route the new outer though the swing arm and other twiddley bits. The new outer cable went through swing arm a treat.
If you are doing the rerouting through the brake hose hole, you do not need to remove the crank or pedal as the motor cover can be manipulated over the crank to give room. But on the motor cover solution you need to remove the crank, which is a 2 minute job.
I imagined battery removal and replacement would be straightforward. It isn't, it would be a right royal PITA to do on the trail, and the battery is big and heavy, I was toying with buying a second battery to do 80 mile day rides. I don't think it will be comfortable.
Be slow and meticulous and don't drink too much beer before or during.

And goes without saying, you fiddle with your bike at your own risk, if you are not confident, don't do it.

UPDATE : Shift performance too compromised, due to tight radii of this solution.
See update 10/08/20

 

[Hobo Mikey]

Excuse my ignorance here but what is the flimsy plastic ring behind the back of cogs. Can I take I take it off, I just don’t like it.

 

[KennyB]

Yes. It's there to protect the spokes from the chain coming off the inside of the sprockets, jamming up as well as damaging the spokes. Just make sure that your lower limit screw prevents the mech from overshifting (get in bottom gear and see if you can push the mech any further to the left. If it does screw in the screw (on the right on a GX 11 Speed). Easy way to get it off is to cut it or break it with pliers.

 

[Hobo Mikey]

Cheers for that KennyB
So here it is Picked it up today. 220 mile round trip so not had time for a proper ride yet. But just feels so good riding around campsite. Will be asking endless questions about it to you seasoned Whyte owners.

 

[KennyB]

Cheers for that KennyB
So here it is Picked it up today. 220 mile round trip so not had time for a proper ride yet. But just feels so good riding around campsite. Will be asking endless questions about it doubt to you seasoned Whyte owners.
View attachment 35172

Ah. I'm a Levo luvver. Love the Whyte but no LBS, and inability to charge in my garage swung it.

 

[Hobo Mikey]

What tyre pressure are you guys running On your RS

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I run 18 front and rear

 

[nosuchuser]

I run 18 front and rear

Wow, Is that tubeless? I'm on 30ish rear and 28ish front with tubes. No punctures yet but would like more grip on the front, thinking about cushcore etc.

 

[Hobo Mikey]

Forgot to say I am running tubeless just wondered best pressure to put in.

 

[Miket775]

I'm running 23 front and 26 rear at the mo but i'm a heavier rider so its best to play around with what you feel comfortable with

 

[Hobo Mikey]

I am also a heavier rider, properly about 95-100 kg with cloths and camelbak etc. Always best to wear cloths even though it makes you heavier. Will experiment with different pressures.

 

[Jamze]

I found 30psi didn't work too well this week at Swinley. Kept losing the front in the wet/hard surface there. If it was my own bike, I'd be tubeless, probably around 20-22. Not used Maxxis before, but my WTBs (lights) get very squirmy below 20.

 

[nosuchuser]

Always best to wear cloths even though it makes you heavier.

I imagine it stops you getting arrested as well

 

[GANI]

Cheers for that KennyB
So here it is Picked it up today. 220 mile round trip so not had time for a proper ride yet. But just feels so good riding around campsite. Will be asking endless questions about it to you seasoned Whyte owners.
View attachment 35172

Lovely looking bike! What height are you and what size is the bike?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Wow, Is that tubeless? I'm on 30ish rear and 28ish front with tubes. No punctures yet but would like more grip on the front, thinking about cushcore etc.

Yeah I was running the same pressure but found my bike pinged off rocks and I found I was not in control on fast technical descents, I dropped the pressure down bit by bit until I was happy with between 18 and 20 psi, if the trails are really rocky I will go up to 25 psi, lower pressure gives you better traction on technical climbs too because the tyre wraps itself around the rocks, this is based on a Maxxis minion 27.5 x 2.50 and a high roller at the same size but you run your tyres at this pressure at your own risk mate

 

[Tienhaara]

Finally got around to post something. Been too busy riding the 180Picture is shitty, it started pouring down and I escaped in an aquaduct.

LBS also rerouted the shiftercable on my bike so it comer out the back with the brakehose. I’ve already had some BB touches so the cable would’ve been busted for sure.

 

[Hobo Mikey]

Lovely looking bike! What height are you and what size is the bike?

5ft 8 bike size medium, went of the Whyte bike sizing chart and it feels good.

 

[Danp83]

Here’s my upgraded E-150. Fitted the Ohlins today so looking forward to trying it out soon.

 

[R120]

What travel up front on that 38?

 

[Danp83]

What travel up front on that 38?

Running 170mm. I had the shop change the forks to 160mm before I even rode it. Fell in love with the 38s when they came out so changed to them.
The front feels awesome with them on.

 

[nosuchuser]

Running 170mm. I had the shop change the forks to 160mm before I even rode it. Fell in love with the 38s when they came out so changed to them.
The front feels awesome with them on.

Hope v4's as well? How do you find those vs the Code R? Any issues with installing the braided hose?

I've always had Hope brakes and think these sram ones are a bit shit considering how much newer they are. Finally got to a point where I'm not bitching about them all the time now I've got a decent bleed procedure and some trickstuff 840 pads. They're ok but could be better.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Here’s my upgraded E-150. Fitted the Ohlins today so looking forward to trying it out soon.
View attachment 35965

OMG look at that BB clearance, one sweet looking ride mate ?

 

[Tribey]

Sweet looking BB clearance, what does it measure now?

Gold forks, Hope 4 pots, nice mods.

 

[Danp83]

Hope v4's as well? How do you find those vs the Code R? Any issues with installing the braided hose?

I've always had Hope brakes and think these sram ones are a bit shit considering how much newer they are. Finally got to a point where I'm not bitching about them all the time now I've got a decent bleed procedure and some trickstuff 840 pads. They're ok but could be better.

I’ve never really got on with Sram brakes and had them changed when I got the bike. I find Hope give you a lot better control and adjustability.

 

[Danp83]

Sweet looking BB clearance, what does it measure now?

Gold forks, Hope 4 pots, nice mods.

Haven’t measured it. Don’t have any problems with hitting it.

 

[Miket775]

Just had an email from Rutland Cycling announcing pre-order for 2021 models - range has grown to 3 models:

e180 v2 - 2 models for 2021 - still running 27.5" wheels:
e180s with RS Zeb and Super Deluxe Air Select, GX eagle and Code R with 220 front and 200 rear rotors, Assegai F+R
e180rs has Fox 38 Factory and X2 air Factory, X01 eagle and Code RSC with 220/200 rotors, Assegai F+R

e160 v1 - NEW with 2 models 27.5" wheels:
e160s - RS Zeb and Super Deluxe Air Select, GX eagle and Guide RS with 220 front and 200 rear rotors, WTB Tyres
e160rs - Fox 38 Performance Grip Fork and Performance DPS Air, X01 eagle and Code R with 220/200 rotors, Assegai F/DHR R

e150 v2 - Now running 29" wheels:
e150s - RS Yari and Deluxe Select+, Deore 12s and Deore 4-pot 203 f+r, WTB Tyres
e150rs - RS Lyric Select+ and Deluxe Select+, X01 eagle and Code R with 200 rotors, Assegai F/DHR R

More detais here: 2021 whyte electric Bikes | Rutland Cycling

 

[GANI]

Any idea on release date? I like the look of the 160 RS.

I can't make my mind up on sizing. I am 5,10 and on my normal non ebike I have a Whyte 905 in a large and I do find it a little to big sometimes. I have the seat all the way forward!

 

[nosuchuser]

Any idea on release date? I like the look of the 160 RS.

I can't make my mind up on sizing. I am 5,10 and on my normal non ebike I have a Whyte 905 in a large and I do find it a little to big sometimes. I have the seat all the way forward!

I'm the same height and have a medium 150rs. Demo'd both medium and large and went with the medium, felt a bit more responsive.