Whyte e-mtb
- Thread starter TonyW
- Start date
Hello all,
First post as a noob to the forum. This thread is at least part of the reason for joining, and finally deciding to order a Whyte E 150 S.
I just found this video on youtube. I think the guys are polish, but there are some useful sections. Links below take you to the correct time:
EDIT: Seems as though the timestamped URLs aren't working.
Weight of the bike (Medium) - 3:10
Changing battery on the trail - 3:55
I can't wait to get out on the local trails!
Andy
First post as a noob to the forum. This thread is at least part of the reason for joining, and finally deciding to order a Whyte E 150 S.
I just found this video on youtube. I think the guys are polish, but there are some useful sections. Links below take you to the correct time:
EDIT: Seems as though the timestamped URLs aren't working.
Weight of the bike (Medium) - 3:10
Changing battery on the trail - 3:55
I can't wait to get out on the local trails!
Andy
Last edited:
Yes mate ? you will love it! Glad you don’t have to wait long, I preordered one and had to wait months.
Awesome machine. Would you post up a pic of the rerouted cable please? Going to attempt this myself. I’m now on my 4th replacement ??
Sure buddy, as soon as I get it!
You will not be disappointed!
i just got mine delivered 2 days ago. i sent an email through to the LBS with pictures and links from this forum asking if they would be kind enough to re-route the cables. They called me the next day and said recent Whytes have the bottom cables re-routed already, the break hose is now the lowest cable poking out the back of the motor location aiming at the rear tire and not the ground. i had some old carburetor drain hose that i split open and zip tied around it, was thinking maybe hot glue or some kind of caulking would give me a flexible seal to reinforce the frame grommet but i dunno, i fear more for the pedals than the hose/cables after riding about town for a day.
Tribey
Active member
Cheers for the update.
It's the shifter cable that was the lowest (after dealer mod one) and will cop it when you drop down over rough ground/rocks. I would say those cables you've protected will be way out of the way anyway.
Have you got pics of the shifter cable routing??
And, yes, you'll have pedal strikes galore!
It's the shifter cable that was the lowest (after dealer mod one) and will cop it when you drop down over rough ground/rocks. I would say those cables you've protected will be way out of the way anyway.
Have you got pics of the shifter cable routing??
And, yes, you'll have pedal strikes galore!
Tribey
Active member
My Whyte dealer/LBS hjadn't heard of it last week, maybe a favour by the dealer?
I shall ask mine again. Is the shifter cable now running externally or routed through the swingarm??
I shall ask mine again. Is the shifter cable now running externally or routed through the swingarm??
When I get my crank off and the plastic motor cover removed I’m going to take a look and see if I can re-route the shifter cable internally, Whyte sell a range of rubber grommets on their website, apart from this I can’t fault my bike, best thing I’ve bought in years
Any chance you could take a bigger picture showing a bit more of your bike to give me a better idea of your routing please mate, looks good, I might copy your idea ?
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Had a bash at rerouting Rear mech cable myself today. A smashed up rear wheel stops actual bike play for me today. Probably took 90mins beginning to end. Saves me buying AXS!
It’s actually pretty simple to reroute, only needs motor cover taking off. Most difficult but was making room in the existing grommet which currently houses the brake hose.
It shifts cleanly, can’t tell if there is any additional friction caused by the small radius bends. Time will tell.
Yellow line is new route.
Erm ?
Nothing fouls on frame.
Nothing is going to catch these, it works nicely at full travel too.
A blob of black silicone sealant to keep it waterproof and jobs a good one I reckon.
Internal routes cables can get in the sea.
?
It’s actually pretty simple to reroute, only needs motor cover taking off. Most difficult but was making room in the existing grommet which currently houses the brake hose.
It shifts cleanly, can’t tell if there is any additional friction caused by the small radius bends. Time will tell.
Yellow line is new route.
Erm ?
Nothing fouls on frame.
Nothing is going to catch these, it works nicely at full travel too.
A blob of black silicone sealant to keep it waterproof and jobs a good one I reckon.
Internal routes cables can get in the sea.
?
Tribey
Active member
Cheers,
Do you have a technique for steering the shifter cable through the swingarm to the exit hole? this seemed to be my stumbling block, so I reverted to standard.
Do you have a technique for steering the shifter cable through the swingarm to the exit hole? this seemed to be my stumbling block, so I reverted to standard.
How did you manage to remove the plastic motor cover from your non drive side without removing the pedal crank Sam, is it different to the e150 because I couldn’t get the cover off of my bike without removing the pedal crank first, does the pedal crank have to be in a certain position please
Tribey
Active member
The non-drive side crank arm is a simple removal. loosen the outer 10mm Allen a bit, then undo the inner 8mm allen and it pulls the arm off, by backing the inner allen against the outer one.
What Tribey said ?
I didn’t remove mine, the plastic cover does for over the crank arm if you rotate it round a bit.
Hoping to get a 600lb spring this week, should sit the bike a bit higher up in its travel ?
I’m really glad I didn’t treat myself to the hope cranks, mine are completely battered now.
I didn’t remove mine, the plastic cover does for over the crank arm if you rotate it round a bit.
Hoping to get a 600lb spring this week, should sit the bike a bit higher up in its travel ?
I’m really glad I didn’t treat myself to the hope cranks, mine are completely battered now.
Tribey
Active member
here you go, from 49 seconds
Oh right, I thought the crank arm had to be removed first, thanks for pointing that out to me mate, I’ve just ordered some new outer and inner shifter cable and a cable tensioner so hopefully mine will look the same, very much appreciated mate ?
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Hi Tribey, I did already know but I appreciate you taking the time to post that video footage for me ?
I’ve ordered some LEX-SL jag wire outer cable which is pre-lubed and some sealed anodised cap ends from Uber-bike which should keep out any moisture and help keep everything running smoothly with the tighter radius around the chain stay link bar hopefully, just one more thing, are there any other kind of cable clips inside the frame which will make life more difficult to renew the shifter cable on my bike please
Hiya chaps.
If you want to go belt and braces, I guess you could remove the brake hose entirely and feed both through a new grommet. I’m not that fussed, a blob of black sealant does the job. I’m of the camp that bikes are for using not for looking at ?
Sean there’s no clips in the way, it makes total sense when you get the cover off and see for yourself, obvs removing the battery makes it easier.
Good luck! Got to love a bit of bike tinkering with a beer ?
If you want to go belt and braces, I guess you could remove the brake hose entirely and feed both through a new grommet. I’m not that fussed, a blob of black sealant does the job. I’m of the camp that bikes are for using not for looking at ?
Sean there’s no clips in the way, it makes total sense when you get the cover off and see for yourself, obvs removing the battery makes it easier.
Good luck! Got to love a bit of bike tinkering with a beer ?
Nice one Sam, you’re a gentleman, I’ve got plenty of booze in, once my stuff arrives I’ll get cracking on my bike, I’ve already had the battery out and was surprised how much dust the battery had on it, you’d think it would all be sealed from the outside, thanks again pal ?
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