Wheelie_King
The Spirit Level ?️
Did somebody say "Wheelie"
That's where gearing comes in.On the pedal bike, I simply don't produce enough torque to get the front wheel up more than a foot on level ground
it probably (definitely)isn't. Not pedalling AND weight shift anyway. One (or both) are way off.even when my timing is spot on
Pretty much proven by the above statement.When it isn't, the front wheel barely leaves the ground at all. In all cases, the wheel is on the ground again by the bottom of the first pedal stroke.
your problem is DEFINITELY timing AND weight shift.My problem is most likely timing on the emtb, since the assist should be able to make up for my lack of torque.
You're massively overthinking this part. spend time (on ANY bike) gaining the timing and weight shift technique required. Once you have it locked in it'll then be transferrable to absolutely any bike (Barring tandems) there's pretty much no bike i can't wheelie.That assist on my bike is provided through a clutch, which introduces a delay if I coast up to the point where I want to start the wheelie. Compensating for the clutch delay has proven very difficult. Only way around that is to pedal just enough to keep the clutch engaged instead of coasting. But then I get going too fast, and can't get any lift from pedaling.
and?Assisted or not, I get no front wheel lift from pedaling at speeds much over 3 MPH.
I did video myself on the old (non-e) hardtail. My arms are fully extended at the zenith and remain fully extended as the bike pulls me forward and down.Do you have the means to video yourself
In the low gears it acts more like I'm in too low a gear (spin out), in the higher gears it acts more like I'm in too high a gear, but I get the symptoms of both in varying degrees in every gear.That's where gearing comes in.
I find it hard to believe on a modern bike you don't have low enough gearing to produce the torque to raise the front wheel.
The problem with the weight shift is that I am short, so I can't shift my weight as far as you can.it probably (definitely)isn't. Not pedalling AND weight shift anyway. One (or both) are way off.even when my timing is spot on
Pretty much proven by the above statement.
your problem is DEFINITELY timing AND weight shift.
With both of these sorted you shouldn't even need the motor to be switched on to raise the front wheel to balance point.
Obviously power does come into it somewhere or you'd be able to do tandems too.You're massively overthinking this part. spend time (on ANY bike) gaining the timing and weight shift technique required. Once you have it locked in it'll then be transferrable to absolutely any bike (Barring tandems) there's pretty much no bike i can't wheelie.That assist on my bike is provided through a clutch, which introduces a delay if I coast up to the point where I want to start the wheelie. Compensating for the clutch delay has proven very difficult. Only way around that is to pedal just enough to keep the clutch engaged instead of coasting. But then I get going too fast, and can't get any lift from pedaling.
That technique is what I am attempting to do. The clutch most certainly is screwing around with my timing since it introduces a delay before the assist kicks in. How would you compensate for that if you were not strong enough to wheelie a heavy ebike without any help from the assist? For that matter, if you are strong enough to get the wheel up unassisted, would you loop out when the assist cut in 1/2 second later?- If you read back through this very thread I previously described the technique.
But my speed doesn't stay under 3 MPH for long, and once it exceeds that, pedaling no longer lifts the front wheel and down it goes.There's absolutlely nothing wrong with beginning to raise your front wheel while travelling at at 3mph. infact. Slow wheelie practice will improve your balance and ability to maintain balance point far more than higher speed wheelying will.Assisted or not, I get no front wheel lift from pedaling at speeds much over 3 MPH.
Whoops forgot to add the Wheelie - corrected.Manuals aren't the same as wheelies.
By all means learn both though.
I've taught loads of folk wheelies and manuals over the years.Whoops forgot to add the Wheelie - corrected.
Thanks, I’ll try the wheelie then. Just doing it on grass now with sneakers as I have clips and don’t want to break anything. At our age takes a long time to heal!I've taught loads of folk wheelies and manuals over the years.
If you can't do either at all I'd almost always recommend trying to learn wheelies first as it's an easier process to learn than a manual and being compitent at wheelies is a massive advantage when learning mannys.
Everyone's different though. Some folk you teach just click with everything you say and need a little encouragement and a few pointers/tips and a little correction to help them on their way while others need far more guidance, every step broken right down to basics and each step drilled and practiced repeatedly otherwise information overload happens and anxiety can causes a mental block. These folk need a long time, patience and plenty breaks from the learning process to get there.
I have been doing nearly all my wheelie practice uphill from the start. I can barely get the wheel off the ground going downhill, with all the extra weight on it.Simply use an uphill gradient to keep your speed low.
This also means you have to be less relient on the rear brake to stop you looping out.
Maybe learn wheelies on a regular bike first if the motor assist is too much of a headfuck.
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