What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
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- magic mary tyres vigilante
Stevey Mac
New Member
No exactly its a very valid point so time will tell. If only they did a 2.5 or 2.6 the same spec
Never had anything like that with mine .. :-(
The shop i brought them from just got back to me and recommend more sealant ?. I have put in a s##t load more stans (the front weights about the same as the rear now) so will see how it goes. If this doesn't work nothing will ?
I had Specialized tyres that did that. They recommended Stans Racing Sealant. Issue resolved!
I have E-Wild front 29x2.6 and E-Wild front 27.5x2.8 (for the rear wheel). I used stans sealant (not stans race sealant) and inflate them on 3 bars. Till tomorrow they lost all pressure. I inflate them again on 3 bars and strong shake tyres. (droping them on the floor and spining them around ).
I do this last 3 weaks. (but not each day. 2 or 3 days pause) and now is finaly fine. Unfortunately i did not test tires because i have some broken parts on bike and i need time to fix it.
P.S.
Front tire i mounted backward.
I heard this advice from forum member Tim29. He accidentally changed the tire orientation. And he find out that it have more grip.
I conclude that the physics behind it is the side of the knobs. Which is cutted to 45 degrees (which are intended for rolling resistance) now used for braking instead of the defoult side which is on 90 degrees.
When you aproach with 45 degrees knob on wett root you immediately have a full contact area.
And when you approach with a knob cut to 90 degrees. It is in contact with the corner of the knob and the root (small surface area). Which begins to merge / flex with the object.
And you have to press the corner of the knob a few mm to achieve the grip surface on the side which was already cut at the start to 45 degrees on the other side.
I tested the grip with the palm (or thumb) in one direction and then the other direction. And I definitely see that it has better grip when I go with my hand in the direction of the knob that is cut to 45 degrees.
I’ve also heard that tire has better grip when is slightly used. That is probably because of that sharp corner becomes rounder and it had the similar effect.
The original orientation is probably a better option for deep mud or loosed rocks. But now it’s winter and it’s wet. And the scariest driving conditions for me are wet rocks and roots.
I do this last 3 weaks. (but not each day. 2 or 3 days pause) and now is finaly fine. Unfortunately i did not test tires because i have some broken parts on bike and i need time to fix it.
P.S.
Front tire i mounted backward.
I heard this advice from forum member Tim29. He accidentally changed the tire orientation. And he find out that it have more grip.
I conclude that the physics behind it is the side of the knobs. Which is cutted to 45 degrees (which are intended for rolling resistance) now used for braking instead of the defoult side which is on 90 degrees.
When you aproach with 45 degrees knob on wett root you immediately have a full contact area.
And when you approach with a knob cut to 90 degrees. It is in contact with the corner of the knob and the root (small surface area). Which begins to merge / flex with the object.
And you have to press the corner of the knob a few mm to achieve the grip surface on the side which was already cut at the start to 45 degrees on the other side.
I tested the grip with the palm (or thumb) in one direction and then the other direction. And I definitely see that it has better grip when I go with my hand in the direction of the knob that is cut to 45 degrees.
I’ve also heard that tire has better grip when is slightly used. That is probably because of that sharp corner becomes rounder and it had the similar effect.
The original orientation is probably a better option for deep mud or loosed rocks. But now it’s winter and it’s wet. And the scariest driving conditions for me are wet rocks and roots.
- Thread starter
- #1,208
Interesting!!! Do you have any idea when they will hit the market ? 2.6 27.5 DHRII maxxterra DD is perfect for the rear on an Ebike !!!
- Thread starter
- #1,210
No. It’s actually from a demo bike that I had to change out on the trail to a new DHR2 as I got a huge stick caught in it and the sealant wouldn’t seal. So I swapped that entire tyre on the demo to a new DHR2 . I chucked this one in my shed and was there for a while after the demo bike went back (o didn’t actually realise it was a DD). I since repaired it and put it back on.
hopefully it’ll be released soon.
I think you just had some unlucky production ones. I tried running the Wilds and the DH22's without any sealant just out of curiosity (I'm weird like that) and they were both fine straight out of the box. Or out of the enormous box for the DH22's and out of the foldy squidgy packing for the Wilds......
Pivot
E*POWAH Master
My OEM tyres were Assegai 27.5x2.6 3C Maxx Terra EXO+ on the rear and 29x2.6 in the front.
I wanted more grip on the rear, when wading through thick mud, so I bought 27.5x2.8 Hans Dampf EVO APX TLE.
Well, I have to admit that I have a better grip with Assegai in 2.6, so I shelved Hans Dampf for summer and gone back to Assegai, at least for the winter season.
I wanted more grip on the rear, when wading through thick mud, so I bought 27.5x2.8 Hans Dampf EVO APX TLE.
Well, I have to admit that I have a better grip with Assegai in 2.6, so I shelved Hans Dampf for summer and gone back to Assegai, at least for the winter season.
Have you tried a Shorty or Hillbilly on rear for winter? In my neck of the woods, they work pretty good all winter long, and neither roll much worse than the assegia. I prefer the Shorty, becuase the large center block seems to climb marginally better than either the assegai, or the hillbilly.
Pivot
E*POWAH Master
Thanks Teno, humble apologies, Mr Teno
Shorty does look the (mud wrestling) business!
I have the same problem. The rear one is fine. Front goes flat overnight. I put 30psi in it and sprayed it with watered down liquid soap. Bubbles erupting out of the side wall like Vesuvius. Got 100 ml of slime in but no joy. Also leaking from the vent hole in the AR30 rim, so will need to tiger tape the rim. So much for TL ready.
Ye i got the impression when the shop i got them from e-mailed me back that it's not the first time someone has e-mailed them with this problem. My rear was fine as well but thats down to it having the heavier sidewall. I still have to try it out on a ride tomorrow but seems to holding air ok for now.
I went tubeless last week when the bike was in for its first "check-up " service.
I asked ( when picking the bike up ) what sealant they had used expecting the answer to be Stans ..but to my surprise they said Muc-Off ...surprise because I had read some not too complimentary reviews ..but so far they haven't lost a single psi of pressure..
Assegai front..Minion DHR ll rear
I asked ( when picking the bike up ) what sealant they had used expecting the answer to be Stans ..but to my surprise they said Muc-Off ...surprise because I had read some not too complimentary reviews ..but so far they haven't lost a single psi of pressure..
Assegai front..Minion DHR ll rear
congerball
Active member
I like the look of these, was looking at the DH34 but these look less aggressive...can’t find them anywhere though ?
congerball
Active member
I’m only getting the Michelin’s as I like the yellow and blue ??
I agree ... but remember .. they can still get dirty ... uhm... maybe silicone furniture polish on the side walls ?
Pivot
E*POWAH Master
Since I have e-motor assistance, I don’t care about tubeless, but I do care about not getting stuck in the woods, miles away from home.
My LBS is fitting these to all their rental e-bikes so I fitted it on my rear, when I needed new tube. Hopefully no more problems
NULevo
Well-known member
View attachment 45395
Since I have e-motor assistance, I don’t care about tubeless, but I do care about not getting stuck in the woods, miles away from home.
My LBS is fitting these to all their rental e-bikes so I fitted it on my rear, when I needed new tube. Hopefully no more problems
Had these front and rear with slime inner tubes for almost a year, only one flat in that time, I love them
DH22 .. made of IRON .. no punctures.
I'm not happy with the stock front tyre - Spesh Butcher 2.6 - as it loses traction in cornering and slips suddenly.
I've tried going from 24 psi, 22, 20, 19 and finally 18 psi, with no clear gain on cornering traction. Running tubeless, weigh 72kg.
I'm looking to replace the Front Butcher with either:
1) new Schwalbe Magic Mary Super Trail 2.6 (1250g)
2) new Vittoria Mazza Trail 2.6 (1100g)
Anyone with experience with these tyres?
Don't think I need the MM on Super Gravity nor the Mazza on Enduro / e-bike versions (aprox.1400g)
I ride a mix of varied terrain, mostly trails, not enduro, which includes sharp rocks, lose dirt, hardpack and everything in between, including mud every now and then.
The others on my short list:
- Maxxis Assegai - apparently best for dry
- Michelin Wild Enduro - apparently best for wet
I've tried going from 24 psi, 22, 20, 19 and finally 18 psi, with no clear gain on cornering traction. Running tubeless, weigh 72kg.
I'm looking to replace the Front Butcher with either:
1) new Schwalbe Magic Mary Super Trail 2.6 (1250g)
2) new Vittoria Mazza Trail 2.6 (1100g)
Anyone with experience with these tyres?
Don't think I need the MM on Super Gravity nor the Mazza on Enduro / e-bike versions (aprox.1400g)
I ride a mix of varied terrain, mostly trails, not enduro, which includes sharp rocks, lose dirt, hardpack and everything in between, including mud every now and then.
The others on my short list:
- Maxxis Assegai - apparently best for dry
- Michelin Wild Enduro - apparently best for wet
deksawyer
E*POWAH Master
Well, what a nice experience changing out my rear tyre (unlike @steve_sordy ha ha*).
My old Nobby Nic broke the bead extremely easily using my hands, and came off with one tyre lever ran round the rim. The new Shorty went on with no tools at all - I fully expected that to be a bitch as it's the DD casing, but no. And since I used proper rim Tape (WTB) there was no mess to clean up apart from some left over Muc-Off sealant. Took about 6 mins.
* I feel for you brother!
My old Nobby Nic broke the bead extremely easily using my hands, and came off with one tyre lever ran round the rim. The new Shorty went on with no tools at all - I fully expected that to be a bitch as it's the DD casing, but no. And since I used proper rim Tape (WTB) there was no mess to clean up apart from some left over Muc-Off sealant. Took about 6 mins.
* I feel for you brother!
Last edited:
deksawyer
E*POWAH Master
While I'm here - Assegai or DHF II (or even DHR II) on the front?
Depends
En Ecosse, Aye?
DHRII if you value front braking on super steep/loose terrain
DHF if you're happy holding a drift
There is no DHFII
Assguy if you're fast enough that dry tyres never clog for you.
DHF/DHRII both corner incredibly similarly when leant over properly onto the edge tread. The main difference is the drift zone and braking.
En Ecosse, Aye?
DHRII if you value front braking on super steep/loose terrain
DHF if you're happy holding a drift
There is no DHFII
Assguy if you're fast enough that dry tyres never clog for you.
DHF/DHRII both corner incredibly similarly when leant over properly onto the edge tread. The main difference is the drift zone and braking.
Waiting for ride review. It's my favorite rear tire.
Most the online reviews are from MTB users running the narrower versions and almost universally on the front.
I've found no rear tire that does as well on steeps up and down, while not also completely killing momentum when the trail flattens out.
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