Sounds like it could be the power board then. Best of luck and keep us posted. We’ve a lot to learn on diying this bike.
Vitus E-Mythique LT won't power on.
- Thread starter RonanGee
- Start date
willsendall77
New Member
Hi there I’ve just visited my e-mythical 
, it weirdly turned on. Powered up and down twice! Now dead again.
So decided to split the motor.
To check for water ingress. Absolutely nothing looked brand new, (which it is) no traces of any water, dust or dirt etc.
To my e-bike repairing (very novice!) eyes, nothing untoward or obvious is wrong in here or would lead me to think it’s an issue due to water…..
Battery definitely good as I’ve tested that with a multi meter.
I still notice the power leads sparks when I plug it in, is this normal?
Any ideas?? Could it be the display?
Cheers Will
, it weirdly turned on. Powered up and down twice! Now dead again. So decided to split the motor.
To check for water ingress. Absolutely nothing looked brand new, (which it is) no traces of any water, dust or dirt etc.
To my e-bike repairing (very novice!) eyes, nothing untoward or obvious is wrong in here or would lead me to think it’s an issue due to water…..
Battery definitely good as I’ve tested that with a multi meter.
I still notice the power leads sparks when I plug it in, is this normal?
Any ideas?? Could it be the display?
Cheers Will
willsendall77
New Member
Ps a gentle tap with a mallet separated the casings easily. Gasket looked perfectly intact
That’s good news re lack of water. I’d say the power board is faulty. And yes, I investigated the popping and noise when connecting the battery but it is perfectly normal.
I have used black tack around all the connectors to my motor now and hope that may help keep water from shorting that power connector (my hypothesis!). Best of luck.
I have used black tack around all the connectors to my motor now and hope that may help keep water from shorting that power connector (my hypothesis!). Best of luck.
rotary
Member
Thanks for this
My Mythique is now up and running again! Woo Hoo!
New connector board seems to have fixed it. At least a quick trip up and down the street shows its ok so far
There was signs of water ingress/corrosion on the soldered pins on the back of the connector blocks and one or two of the tracks looked dodgy. New one well sealed with dialectric grease - not on the pins though. Also the cavity inside the motor behind the chainring as water was getting in that way as well.
See how it goes from here.
New connector board seems to have fixed it. At least a quick trip up and down the street shows its ok so far
There was signs of water ingress/corrosion on the soldered pins on the back of the connector blocks and one or two of the tracks looked dodgy. New one well sealed with dialectric grease - not on the pins though. Also the cavity inside the motor behind the chainring as water was getting in that way as well.
See how it goes from here.
Hey,
just thought I would say I have had similar issues with my mystique and found this thread very helpful. My motor stopped working after intermittently turning on and giving no assistance.
I checked all the connections and found lots of them where green inside so have them all a good clean with contact cleaner and ended up stripping the motor. I found the socket board very corroded as most have found. Looks like the Failure point is the main shaft seal on the drive side And the socket board is not conformal coated only hot glue used to protect the solder joints. Also interesting to see the arc path in the ribbon connector.
I cleaned socket board surfaces and connectors conformal coated everything and the re hot glued the back of the pins. Reassembled and it is now all working fine.
I have added some pics hopefully this will help others .
just thought I would say I have had similar issues with my mystique and found this thread very helpful. My motor stopped working after intermittently turning on and giving no assistance.
I checked all the connections and found lots of them where green inside so have them all a good clean with contact cleaner and ended up stripping the motor. I found the socket board very corroded as most have found. Looks like the Failure point is the main shaft seal on the drive side And the socket board is not conformal coated only hot glue used to protect the solder joints. Also interesting to see the arc path in the ribbon connector.
I cleaned socket board surfaces and connectors conformal coated everything and the re hot glued the back of the pins. Reassembled and it is now all working fine.
I have added some pics hopefully this will help others .
willsendall77
New Member
Great pics thanks for this post.
Do you think there’s a way to fix the seal or have you had any thoughts about possible solutions?
Cheers
So I did a temporary fix as I im riding up Snowden in a few weeks and want to make sure it worked when back in the bike. I packed the drive side seal with water proof grease and the back face of it that touches the bearing for now.
I have ordered a new seal and the plan will be to get the dimensions from that seal and find a alternative seal. Ultimately I think the seal is just not doing its job properly. I have also started looking at designing a bolt on splash guard to try and keep water away from that area.
I will do a strip down and reassembly pics to show what I have done.
willsendall77
New Member
Ok I have a working e-mythique again 
In this case it was the PCB as suggested by multiple participants in this forum. Many thanks for all the advice, definitely wouldn’t of had a clue without your help
Split the casings and removed the PCB on the chainring side. Immediately saw corrosion around the dormant pin socket. Water ingress into that socket was the cause of the failure.
New PCB and seal as supplied by Ali Express.
I used some dialectic grease to pack into the unused socket before capping it. Also smeared on the seal both sides and around the pin sockets to help seal into the casing. Tightened it up nicely to make sure the seal was good.
Put it back together and it’s working perfectly.
Again many thanks to everyone who contributed to enable this fix. Definitely the weak point.
I’ll be using in dry conditions only and avoiding deep puddles! Also not hosing down!!
Hope everyone else has got their bikes sorted
Cheers Will
In this case it was the PCB as suggested by multiple participants in this forum. Many thanks for all the advice, definitely wouldn’t of had a clue without your help
Split the casings and removed the PCB on the chainring side. Immediately saw corrosion around the dormant pin socket. Water ingress into that socket was the cause of the failure.
New PCB and seal as supplied by Ali Express.
I used some dialectic grease to pack into the unused socket before capping it. Also smeared on the seal both sides and around the pin sockets to help seal into the casing. Tightened it up nicely to make sure the seal was good.
Put it back together and it’s working perfectly.
Again many thanks to everyone who contributed to enable this fix. Definitely the weak point.
I’ll be using in dry conditions only and avoiding deep puddles! Also not hosing down!!
Hope everyone else has got their bikes sorted
Cheers Will
willsendall77
New Member
Specialist tools required by anyone wanting to do this job, which is fairly simple:
Bottom bracket tool
Chain whip tool
Torx screwdriver set
Circlip pliers
Bottom bracket tool
Chain whip tool
Torx screwdriver set
Circlip pliers
Jimmylowblow
New Member
Mine personal bike went this week. Error 36 and then wouldn't power on after removing the battery. Socket board switch our and packed with dielectric grease around the socket board. Marine grease around the Crank shafts and black tack around all the plugs on the outside on the motor. Be surprised if any water gets in now.
Jimmylowblow
New Member
I now view the socket board as a part that I will need to replace like a bottom bracket, brake pads etc. It's an easy job and only takes and hour and a half. Just be careful and don't rush.
Jimmylowblow
New Member
A mallet is very handy too
willsendall77
New Member
Definitely
Jimmylowblow
New Member
willsendall77
New Member
I just purchased some black tac, great idea
Jimmylowblow
New Member
Use it to cover these cable inlets too.I just purchased some black tac, great idea
JamesGrant
New Member
Mine won't turn on either. Got about 80 miles before it died. Taking it apart there was a tiny bit of water under the controller board but not loads.
I've replaced the power controller side and ribbon cable so now I guess it's the main controller board (the one with a tiny bit of water). Frustrating really given I will also need to buy a K1 or BESST tool.
I've replaced the power controller side and ribbon cable so now I guess it's the main controller board (the one with a tiny bit of water). Frustrating really given I will also need to buy a K1 or BESST tool.
Jimmylowblow
New Member
Where are you based mate?
JamesGrant
New Member
Near Wrexham.
Jimmylowblow
New Member
I work in Chester and live in north wales. Can flash your new controller board if needed.
JamesGrant
New Member
Oh wow thank you!
However I did order the K1 yesterday so hopefully fingers crossed should be sorted.
- Thread starter
- #177
Wow there's been so much info added to this since I started it. Unfortunately ours is now acting up again. I must catch up on all the AliExpress purchases to refresh the boards etc.
Question about dropping the motor:
What are the using to undo the nut closest to the chain stay? A very slim socket? The socket I have won't clear the frame
Question about dropping the motor:
What are the using to undo the nut closest to the chain stay? A very slim socket? The socket I have won't clear the frame
rotary
Member
Yes, I had to turn down the OD of the socket on a lathe.
- Thread starter
- #179
Thanks I've a lathe at work I must do the same. Do you remember what size the nut was? I'm measuring 13mm
rotary
Member
Yes it’s 13mm but I used 1/2” which fit nice and snug
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