so basically my starting point is in the mid stroke.
Surely that's just like rolling out the red carpet for @Gary to have a perfect comeback about "carpark wankery" ??? ;-)
so basically my starting point is in the mid stroke.
To be honest on totally flat asphalt road I saw at least 5% more compression of the fork by gently riding down the street so for sure there is difference between dynamic and static sag. Not that it changes anything but for sure riding further into the travel.@khorn
I don't actually agree with @R120's thoughts on measuring dynamic sag.
Dynamic sag doesn't mean the bike has to be moving. it means the bike has to be loaded (rider on board)
Sag should be set after compressing suspension a few times and measured where it settles
what's actually important is replicating the same body position each time while measuring.
If I understand what he's saying properly and he's asking you to roll along while settling the bike (and setting the sag O-ring) you will struggle to replicate this and measure accurately.
There's no reason any bike would settle further into it's sag point while rolling (vs stationary) whatever it weighs. unless the rider is not centred (in which case sag would increase at one end and decrease at the other). There is a pretty big chance of getting a poor (inaccurate) reading though.
[edit] Also. sharing personal sag % numbers online is not really all that useful. Without also knowing the method used and exact rider position on the bike they won't really be accurately comparable to everyone elses.
I'm not actually asking for this information. Just making you aware of how difficult it is to comment on a strangers set-up shared online.
Upgrading 2018 Pike to 2020 Lyric Ultimate - Is it worth it
.
Isn't that just the fork overcoming the static friction from the seals? And maybe the difference between cold damping fluid and warm?To be honest on totally flat asphalt road I saw at least 5% more compression of the fork by gently riding down the street so for sure there is difference between dynamic and static sag. Not that it changes anything but for sure riding further into the travel.
Karsten
I agree with Gary that it is very important to make changes during as same conditions as possible. Other vice you loose track of where you were and what you are ending up with. However I find it interesting that there is that much difference between setting sag in the shed and moving along on the street.Isn't that just the fork overcoming the static friction from the seals? And maybe the difference between cold damping fluid and warm?
I always set the suspension sag in the same way, and in a way that I believe that I can repeat. Then I ride the bike and usually find that I change the settings to get the feel I'm looking for. I record whatever I end up with. But after several months it has been known for me to start all over again and see what I end up with! Sometimes it's different, but not as often as I would have expected.
If I understand you correctly (maybe I don't) this is only going to cause the sort of inconsistencies I'm talking about.and gently roll about 10 meters. I then check the sag.
Your suggestion is actually rather good regarding the handlebar but I’m already seeing my front axle in front of the handlebar by a good measure so I have plenty weight on the front end.To go back to the original question and simplify things :
YES. It's a nicer, better fork and I'm sure we'd all like a nicer better fork. You have the advantage though of a 2 for 1 win. You can use your existing fork to upgrade the wife's levo, where she'll notice an even bigger improvement and you can justify the change as a present for the wife.
Happy wife = Happy life.
Heading completely off tangent again, and please politely ignore it if it's stupid as it's the ramblings of someone who doesn't know anything. Have you tried rotating the bars 10 degrees forward ? This gives you a tiny movement forward with your weight but without putting extra strain/discomfort on the lower back as you're going up the same amount at the same time. The bars in theory would also then point your hands slightly more inwards where it would in theory (my theory - so possibly not real) make it easier to keep hold of the bars as even outward pressure would convert to downward grip ? Then play with the brake levers so your hand is in the optimum natural gripping position rather than the most comfortable braking position. For good measure, I will repeat " please politely ignore it if it's stupid".
Er. No. It is the other way around. By all means sit on your bike and lean forwards then backwards if you need to.Er axle in front of handlebars means you are back not forward, axle behind bars means you are forward.
Er axle in front of handlebars means you are back not forward, axle behind bars means you are forward.
I always aim for axle below the bars ( cant see axle) when im riding seated
Well seems to work for me
Gary,I can't possibly comment on what your pro DH racer friend did. or why. (TBF sounds like he just set your bar roll to a neutral position)
Bear in mind the axle/bar position advice you're giving would change quite dramatically with a longer/shorter bike higher/lower BB higher/lower saddle height (inseam) and saddle fore and aft position.
Remaining seated while struggling for front wheel grip is bad technique unless you're climbing or also struggling for rear wheel grip on the flat. This is why setting up your bars for stood up riding makes way more sense on an mtb.
Er. No. It is the other way around. By all means sit on your bike and lean forwards then backwards if you need to.
@khorn Just a thought. but are you braking a lot when you are finding most hand pain?
Yes sorry you are correct my badView attachment 15448
Dave,
This is how I see axle, if behind bar I have to literally sit on the rear wheel. The more you move to the front, the more the axle will be ahead from my perspective. When in attack position my axle is just under the bar.
Karsten
Everything is perfect, the rattling sound is basically the whole bike vibrating violently at a high frequency as the fork is not absorbing the smaller bumps. It is exactly like riding with a rigid fork and trust me, those vibrations are also in the handlebar and that is my issue.is your front hub ok?
is your front brake hose rattling on the fork?
is your mudguard rattling?
Everything is tight and btw the GoPro make it sounds a lot worse than it is. It is simply everything on the bike, Garmin, cables, frontend that shakes violently. As soon as bumps get bigger and I go into the mid-stroke, its dead silent again. Its like I having a rigid frontend until bumps gets bigger/deeper.watching the fork it does look like its tracking ok but difficult to tell, have you tried swapping another fork in just to be sure its not something else?
I assume you have checked your motor bolts are tight?
Yes I have Dave and I never had issues with it being sucked down. I have a 200 hours service kit underway and will do a complete service on Friday. If that doesn’t help I will buy a Lyric Ultimate 170 mm and will run a little extra sag.have you tried burping the fork
Thanks Dave, the Renthal carbon bar is actually rather flexible and much better than the Specialized one that came with the bike.hope you get it sorted, all I can say is my lyric is superb at small bump sensitivity, I suffer from hand pain (arthritis) and the lyric fitted with a debonair spring certainly fixed it for me but it still needed some careful setting up and changing tyre pressure meant I had to tweak the fork a bit to keep the silky smooth ride.
Its probably not your problem but I found some carbon bars (and some ali ones) were too stiff and that would cause a loss of the small bump sensitivity, at least it did for me, for instance, some 35mm bars were really horrid
It’s like watching me on a slow Sunday ride@khorn . To the untrained eye it's difficult to tell when you fork is hitting bumps and not moving and when it's hitting larger bumps and moving ..
I think we need a video from the other angle - like this, to establish if you arms and face look like this professionally prepared test example ..
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.