Levo Gen 2 Specialised Turbo Levo Regular Maintenance

[James_C]

At a guess 10-15 times perhaps? Its 300KM actually. Not sure the freewheel is dodgy, replaced the bearings today and all is well again for now.

I'm going to scale back my washing routine. And also try to avoid mud rather than blasting through it!

 

[Binhill1]

At a guess 10-15 times perhaps? Its 300KM actually. Not sure the freewheel is dodgy, replaced the bearings today and all is well again for now.

I'm going to scale back my washing routine. And also try to avoid mud rather than blasting through it!

Good luck in avoiding mud , big tyres are great but throw a lot more mud all over my precious.

 

[Mikerb]

In my opinion washing does a lot more harm than any mud or puddles on a ride. None of the bearings etc on the bike will withstand much in the way of water pressure so even a garden hose does more harm than good and is likely on an ebike to go into all those spaces with electrical components and connections that are well enough sealed to withstand ingress just from riding in the wet. The freehub especially mostly just depends on grease to keep the elements out. I allow the bike/mud to dry for an hour after a ride, then most of the mud brushes off with a soft brush. I then use a damp cloth to wipe clean any stubborn bits. No detergents/cleaners. Finally I wipe down with an old towel. I regularly use Frame Shine on most parts of the bike. Dirt tends to come off much easier in the same way a well polished car is easier to clean.

 

[Levo Laland]

In my opinion washing does a lot more harm than any mud or puddles on a ride. None of the bearings etc on the bike will withstand much in the way of water pressure so even a garden hose does more harm than good and is likely on an ebike to go into all those spaces with electrical components and connections that are well enough sealed to withstand ingress just from riding in the wet. The freehub especially mostly just depends on grease to keep the elements out. I allow the bike/mud to dry for an hour after a ride, then most of the mud brushes off with a soft brush. I then use a damp cloth to wipe clean any stubborn bits. No detergents/cleaners. Finally I wipe down with an old towel. I regularly use Frame Shine on most parts of the bike. Dirt tends to come off much easier in the same way a well polished car is easier to clean.

I agree, except that I’d recommend always using microfiber towels.

 

[Mikerb]

Using the right type of brush is key. I use the head of a yard broom, cut in half... the type with natural brown bristles ( coir?). Those bristles are stiff enough to remove the dirt but not so stiff they damage paintwork etc, and the bristles do not get soiled by the mud.

 

[Mikerb]

I agree, except that I’d recommend always using microfiber towels.

why? Their primary use is dust free surface cleaning prior to painting. The old towel is just to wipe the bike down.

 

[Levo Laland]

why? Their primary use is dust free surface cleaning prior to painting. The old towel is just to wipe the bike down.

They hold more moisture and dry things faster and they trap dirt so less frame scratches. That’s why car detailers use them.

 

[Binhill1]

In my opinion washing does a lot more harm than any mud or puddles on a ride. None of the bearings etc on the bike will withstand much in the way of water pressure so even a garden hose does more harm than good and is likely on an ebike to go into all those spaces with electrical components and connections that are well enough sealed to withstand ingress just from riding in the wet. The freehub especially mostly just depends on grease to keep the elements out. I allow the bike/mud to dry for an hour after a ride, then most of the mud brushes off with a soft brush. I then use a damp cloth to wipe clean any stubborn bits. No detergents/cleaners. Finally I wipe down with an old towel. I regularly use Frame Shine on most parts of the bike. Dirt tends to come off much easier in the same way a well polished car is easier to clean.

Well been washing bikes since 1986 garden hose only never had any bearing problems . Agree re keeping water away from motor and any connections i hose front and back only. Never heard of frames shine. Still think sometimes I am faffing about too much. Always think of that lad doing a chain bath etc I couldn't be arsed but some folk love to picher.

 

[Mikerb]

Its the way you do it (probably)...(credit: Tommy Cooper). Running water from a hose is one thing.....2 to 3 bar from a garden hose nossle is another.....the difference between a rinse and a blast.

 

[Mikerb]

They hold more moisture and dry things faster and they trap dirt so less frame scratches. That’s why car detailers use them.

Ah..ok. should I use one when I shower?

 

[thewrx]

whoops dual post.

 

[thewrx]

What calipers do the base model levo's have, its not a level caliper as they are only dual piston, not quad. Are they guide/xo's?

I am trying to replace the pads and quite a pain in the arse.

These brakes are crap but can't swing another set of MT7's atm.

***update*** i now notice that the rear and front are different calipers, the rear is weak ass dual caliper, and the front is a quad.

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

Come to the conclusion it’s probably best to ignore all advice on how to wash a bike and just do what I have been doing for the last 50 years with zero issues.

 

[Mikerb]

What calipers do the base model levo's have, its not a level caliper as they are only dual piston, not quad. Are they guide/xo's?

I am trying to replace the pads and quite a pain in the arse.

These brakes are crap but can't swing another set of MT7's atm.

***update*** i now notice that the rear and front are different calipers, the rear is weak ass dual caliper, and the front is a quad.

Avid elixir- SRAM level 2 pot
Code 2011+/guide RE 4 pot

QED

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

My Turbo Levo Comp is one week old and I got it a little muddy on Wednesday the 17th of June and washed it with MuckOff when I got home. The next morning the brakes were really noisy. The moaning never really stopped after that until I moderated the breaks down a steep hill and they started quieting down. Now they only get noisy under heavy breaking. Then I notices a ticking sound whil riding like a loose spoke. They are all tight. I decided to stop at the shop and the rear brake was aligned since there was no ticking sound when rotating the rear wheel with no load on the bike. The weight if the rider may have changed the alignment as Suspension flexed. I thought “problem solved” at first, but now the sound is back. So now I’m thinking its the motor. I hope not.

I can only hear the sound when I am pedaling and it is at the same frequency as one wheel revolution.

If this is the wrong thread, my apologies.

 

[congerball]

My Turbo Levo Comp is one week old and I got it a little muddy on Wednesday the 17th of June and washed it with MuckOff when I got home. The next morning the brakes were really noisy. The moaning never really stopped after that until I moderated the breaks down a steep hill and they started quieting down. Now they only get noisy under heavy breaking. Then I notices a ticking sound whil riding like a loose spoke. They are all tight. I decided to stop at the shop and the rear brake was aligned since there was no ticking sound when rotating the rear wheel with no load on the bike. The weight if the rider may have changed the alignment as Suspension flexed. I thought “problem solved” at first, but now the sound is back. So now I’m thinking its the motor. I hope not.

I can only hear the sound when I am pedaling and it is at the same frequency as one wheel revolution.

If this is the wrong thread, my apologies.

Check your disc isn’t catching the inner side of the caliper/caliper mount, if it is you’ll be able to see where it’s catching...get a file and shave a bit off ?

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

Check your disc isn’t catching the inner side of the caliper/caliper mount, if it is you’ll be able to see where it’s catching...get a file and shave a bit off ?

Thanks. I found a thread called Tick Tick by Mikerb in the Specialized forum. After chasing this rabbit down multiple holes I am hoping it is a spoke. My quick initial check May have been too curory to find the spoke that is the source. This makes the most sense to me since it was soon after washing the bike, the sound presents only when the bike is under load, and is cyclical with each wheel rotation.

 

[Mikerb]

Thanks. I found a thread called Tick Tick by Mikerb in the Specialized forum. After chasing this rabbit down multiple holes I am hoping it is a spoke. My quick initial check May have been too curory to find the spoke that is the source. This makes the most sense to me since it was soon after washing the bike, the sound presents only when the bike is under load, and is cyclical with each wheel rotation.

that is your primary clue....if it is coincident with wheel rotation it is not the motor and will be the wheel. If it is a spoke it will be at the point spokes cross and best solution is to make sure those areas are clean. More likely to be the caliper assuming there no foreign objects in the tyre. Try to determine if the click occurs at the same point kf the wheel revolution each time. If it does then it is the tyre. If not the wheel or rotor is hitting something....brake pad caliper chainstays mudguard etc.

 

[Mikerb]

that is your primary clue....if it is coincident with wheel rotation it is not the motor and will be the wheel. If it is a spoke it will be at the point spokes cross and best solution is to make sure those areas are clean. More likely to be the caliper assuming there no foreign objects in the tyre. Try to determine if the click occurs at the same point kf the wheel revolution each time. If it does then it is the tyre. If not the wheel or rotor is hitting something....brake pad caliper chainstays mudguard etc.

To state the obvious.....if the tick is only there when riding but not when rotating the wheel on a workstand the only differences are that the tyre is not on the ground and the suspension is compressed. The former being a far more likely clue than the latter.

 

[Mountie]

that is your primary clue....if it is coincident with wheel rotation it is not the motor and will be the wheel. If it is a spoke it will be at the point spokes cross and best solution is to make sure those areas are clean. More likely to be the caliper assuming there no foreign objects in the tyre. Try to determine if the click occurs at the same point kf the wheel revolution each time. If it does then it is the tyre. If not the wheel or rotor is hitting something....brake pad caliper chainstays mudguard etc.

I’m chasing the same thing on my 2018 Levo expert. Spoke cross over is clean and the tensions seems ok not sure what to do at this point bike is silent otherwise. Let me know if you find something that works.

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

I’m chasing the same thing on my 2018 Levo expert. Spoke cross over is clean and the tensions seems ok not sure what to do at this point bike is silent otherwise. Let me know if you find something that works.

I plan on dabbing a little oil at each spoke crossover. Will advise progress.

 

[Mikerb]

I plan on dabbing a little oil at each spoke crossover. Will advise progress.

In case you did not read my original post to the end my problem was a section of rim tape that had folded over on itself at the rim of the wheel. The result was that the tyre bead was slightly raised at that point.

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

I plan on dabbing a little oil at each spoke crossover. Will advise progress.

Figured it out. Now this took a little thought. I noticed the tire label that was in contact with the ground when the tick manifested was at exactly where the valve stem exited the rim. I wiggled the valve stem. The fit is sloppy laterally And mad a metal on metal sound as the stem made contact with the metal in the rim exit hole. I tightened the locking ring and it was still sloppy. So I backed the ring of so the valve stem was loose but didn’t make the sound it did when I wiggled it before.
Test ride, no ticking sound. Tightened the lock ring as tight as I could get it by hand. Test ride, no ticking sound. Bing bam? boom ? done !

 

[Mikerb]

Figured it out. Now this took a little thought. I noticed the tire label that was in contact with the ground when the tick manifested was at exactly where the valve stem exited the rim. I wiggled the valve stem. The fit is sloppy laterally And mad a metal on metal sound as the stem made contact with the metal in the rim exit hole. I tightened the locking ring and it was still sloppy. So I backed the ring of so the valve stem was loose but didn’t make the sound it did when I wiggled it before.
Test ride, no ticking sound. Tightened the lock ring as tight as I could get it by hand. Test ride, no ticking sound. Bing bam? boom ? done !

Now there is a lesson to be learnt. If you use tubes you should not tighten the locknut of the valve before inflating the tyre. If you do, it is likely the tube will not sit correctly in the rim......exactly what happened here. In fact many suggest nlt using the locknut at all because if you tighten it after inflation and subsequently suffer a large puncture the chances are the tube will move inside the tyre and try to rip it off. The only really useful function of the locknut is to prevent the valve being pushed into the rim by a hand pump.....so just put it on loose ...if at all

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

Now there is a lesson to be learnt. If you use tubes you should not tighten the locknut of the valve before inflating the tyre. If you do, it is likely the tube will not sit correctly in the rim......exactly what happened here. In fact many suggest nlt using the locknut at all because if you tighten it after inflation and subsequently suffer a large puncture the chances are the tube will move inside the tyre and try to rip it off. The only really useful function of the locknut is to prevent the valve being pushed into the rim by a hand pump.....so just put it on loose ...if at all

Good advice! It’s gone!!! FYI, my bike is a week out if the box ? so if the tube was installed incorrectly, it was done at the factory.

 

[Mountie]

I plan on dabbing a little oil at each spoke crossover. Will advise progress.

I thought the same thing but I think it is dirt in the hub spoke interface. I’ve rinsed the heck out of the spokes and hub this afternoon and it does seem better. I only water wash a couple of times a year and I think the dust built up. Usually I wipe it down and use a spray bottle only. I’ve stopped using the chain turbo cleaner as I think it was depositing degreaser in the well behind the drive sprocket and was a contributing factor to the external motor bearing going after 1200 miles. I now take the chain off to clean and 700 in all quiet. Just an FYI for you. How do the oil work, attract dust and dirt?

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

I thought the same thing but I think it is dirt in the hub spoke interface. I’ve rinsed the heck out of the spokes and hub this afternoon and it does seem better. I only water wash a couple of times a year and I think the dust built up. Usually I wipe it down and use a spray bottle only. I’ve stopped using the chain turbo cleaner as I think it was depositing degreaser in the well behind the drive sprocket and was a contributing factor to the external motor bearing going after 1200 miles. I now take the chain off to clean and 700 in all quiet. Just an FYI for you. How do the oil work, attract dust and dirt?

I use dry lube on my bikes. Did you see my solution? Valve stem clicking on the rim as that portion of the tire was bearing weight. Removed the lock ring and problem solved.

 

[Mountie]

Thanks I’ll look at this right away hopefully the same.

 

[Mountie]

Thanks I’ll look at this right away hopefully the same.

I tightened it as mush as I could by hand as my tires are tubeless and wheels carbon. It is definitely less noticeable I only had one or two clicks fir the five minute ride. Any idea how tight is safe on carbon wheels and tubeless tyres?

 

[Canmore TLCC 29]

I tightened it as mush as I could by hand as my tires are tubeless and wheels carbon. It is definitely less noticeable I only had one or two clicks fir the five minute ride. Any idea how tight is safe on carbon wheels and tubeless tyres?

Perhaps a little Loctite will stop the sound. I have no clue about how much torque the treads can take before the carbon is at risk of failure. I do doubt that finger tight would approach any stress limit though. Grease or Loctite may help get more torque to help seat the lock ring And keep it there.