Levo Gen 2 Specialised Turbo Levo Regular Maintenance

[Mountie]

I’ve put about 2500 kms on the bike I wonder why it started doing this now?

 

[Mikerb]

On a tubeless set up the valve locknut is there to ensure the valve compresses its rubber washer sufficiently to seal on the inside of the rim. It should only need to be finger tight plus about a quarter turn with some pliers. Due to that rubber seal it is not going to be the cause of any noise.

 

[Mikerb]

At 2500 kms I would be stripping the rear hub and checking the hub and freehub bearings.

 

[Mountie]

At 2500 kms I would be stripping the rear hub and checking the hub and freehub bearings.

It was serviced 700kms ago all bearing replaced were dragging from new. Thanks though for the input all gratefully received. .

 

[fitlikemike]

i have never taken my motor out on my current levo but I do remove the covers to inspect and so far it seems pretty clean I found if I do the cover bots up too tight it makes them creak so now I just nip them up with a spot of threadlock, seems to work for me.
I pay particular attention to the battery plug and socket to make sure they are cleaned and dried. Something to watch out for, when you remove the plug after a ride check to see if there is any water on the face of the plug, if there is the seal is not working properly and Its worth investigating further.
I would check your chain with a gauge on regular intervals and replace as needed, they do take a beating on an ebike
one thing I dont like about my levo is the wheelset its heavy and to my engineering mind they dont have enough spokes for a heavy bike but I guess specialized know what they are doing. Anyway i replaced my wheels for some stronger lighter ones, made loads of difference to the feel of the bike
hope that helps

Good advice for me - I'm a newbie, and my Levo Turbo Expert is my first e-bike. Can I ask you on suitable alternative wheel set please, I have the OE Roval Trails. Almost straight away I found that I had to upgrade the standard bars/grips for 35mm Fat Bar/Apex stem Renthals and this also made a huge improvement to the feel of the bike. There is just so much power on tap, it is a heavy bike after all is said and done.

 

[fitlikemike]

What wheels did you go for?

Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread, but..
Did you ever get around to the wheel upgrade, and if so which ones would you recommend/suggest
My Roval trails feel meh!

 

[TheBikePilot]

Really depends on your budget!

DT Swiss HX1501 wheels are awesome.

Totally modular so you can switch out cassette manufacturers with the hub adaptors provided. Also can easily change the free wheel hub. I’ve got a set on mine and they have taken a beating. They are a lot of money but bikediscount.de do deals. They won’t come with all the hub adaptors in the box though..

No budget I’d get the Santa Cruz Carbon wheels. Lifetime warranty, if you break one you get another free!

Smashed my Rovals and a Hope Fortus. These have been bulletproof.

 

[fitlikemike]

Really depends on your budget!
Well, I held back and stopped at the Expert thinking that was sufficient tool - how wrong could I have been. Although I'm more that well impressed by the performance here I can see that I've just really bought the frame/fork/motor arrangement. The contact points are so base; saddle, bars, stem, grips simply had to go, it was an impossible challenge to continue to ride the stuff here in Cairngorm on these without a new pair of wrists

Renthals put driving this bike on a different level, so thinking other upgrades can put in what Spesh ought to have paid up for and ? realise S-work potential.

DT Swiss HX1501 wheels are awesome.

Totally modular so you can switch out cassette manufacturers with the hub adaptors provided. Also can easily change the free wheel hub. I’ve got a set on mine and they have taken a beating. They are a lot of money but bikediscount.de do deals. They won’t come with all the hub adaptors in the box though..

Thanks v much for this. I'll take your word for it, since you seem to know how to wreck wheels

I'm going for these...

DT Swiss HX 1501 Spline One 29" HYBRID Boost Wheelset | Wheel 29" Boost Sets Shop

No budget I’d get the Santa Cruz Carbon wheels. Lifetime warranty, if you break one you get another free!
Yes - didn't you take this same warranty up on the Rovals that you totalled though ?

Smashed my Rovals and a Hope Fortus. These have been bulletproof.
I'm 74Kg, and occasionally charge on through the TTF but at 56 I tend to think first now.
Can you scrub off speed okay/ what brake-set are you packing dude? I fret about these SRAM Codes, but maybe an unnecessary upgrade, I know that there are better kit out there next money might do towards an X2 rear shock. We'll see what vibe the DT wheels bring to the mix.

 

[TheBikePilot]

I agree. All the contact points are fairly junk on the Levo if you're a half-serious rider.

You'll save a lot of rotating weight with those wheels. We shaved a lot off my bike switching to the DT Swiss, they really are bulletproof and look the nuts

SRAM Code R's are just OK. No real modulation they are a bit on or off, and they squeal bad when they get warm. I'll probably go for a set of Hope's next upgrade. But Magura MT7/MT5 are also very good. Magura are however a bitch to bleed. Shimano XTR's are also very good. In all honesty, I am not a fan of SRAM brakes. Weirdly the GUIDE RE's on the Decathalon Stilus felt nicer than the Code R's!

I've switched out the SRAM GX for Shimano XT shifter and mech and that has been night and day.

X2 is my favourite shock of all time. However, I am leaning more towards RockShox these days for suppleness and comfort. FOX is great but forks are harsher in comparison to RockShox but I wouldn't ever have two different brands on the bike for purely BikeTart reasons.

Let me know how you enjoy the wheels! I would change the brakes for sure. I haven't got the cash at the moment to do it but that's next on the list.

 

[blacktiger]

I am leaning more towards RockShox these days for suppleness and comfort. FOX is great but forks are harsher in comparison to RockShox

So I was going to ask a question about forks and your post leads me to it. Have you, or anyone else, tried changing the damping oil to a lighter grade? What weight oil is standard? Does anyone know?
I've been tuning motorcycle suspensions for years and it seems to me that the compression damping in the Fox forks, even on its lowest setting, is far too stiff to absorb the bumps which makes for a juddery ride.

 

[Mikerb]

I am not sure it is the viscosity of the oil that is the problem. When various brands specify that the XYZ fork or shock on their bikes are tuned I think they are referring to the fact the standard porting is changed to take account of the additional forces imposed by 22kg+ emtb. I think the net result is that lighter riders find the suspension too stiff. On my Revelation fork I have removed all the tokens and still run c 20psi below recommended pressure. Even so I rarely use more than 80% travel. My mate is 15kg lighter than me and runs the same fork....as supplied by Rockshox...not ebike specific. He uses 1 token and runs 25psi more than me.

 

[Mikerb]

I am not sure it is the viscosity of the oil that is the problem. When various brands specify that the XYZ fork or shock on their bikes are tuned I think they are referring to the fact the standard porting is changed to take account of the additional forces imposed by 22kg+ emtb. I think the net result is that lighter riders find the suspension too stiff. On my Revelation fork I have removed all the tokens and still run c 20psi below recommended pressure. Even so I rarely use more than 80% travel. My mate is 15kg lighter than me and runs the same fork....as supplied by Rockshox...not ebike specific. He uses 1 token and runs 25psi more than me.

Just to add...when ee ride the same runs we invariably end up using the same amount of travel

 

[blacktiger]

I am not sure it is the viscosity of the oil that is the problem.

Trust me, when you have the adjuster at its lowest/least setting and the damping is still too stiff, the oil viscosity is the only way to adjust it. Like I said, I've tuned lots of motorcycle forks for myself and others for many years with great success. I need a starting point of what weight the standard oil is. The most common on motorcycles is 10W. BTW, the amount of travel you use has nothing to do with the damping rate. That has to do with spring rate which is a different dynamic. Damping affects the speed at which the travel is used.

 

[blacktiger]

Trust me, when you have the adjuster at its lowest/least setting and the damping is still too stiff, the oil viscosity is the only way to adjust it. Like I said, I've tuned lots of motorcycle forks for myself and others for many years with great success. I need a starting point of what weight the standard oil is. The most common on motorcycles is 10W. BTW, the amount of travel you use has nothing to do with the damping rate. That has to do with spring rate which is a different dynamic. Damping affects the speed at which the travel is used.

Seems like the standard is 5W. So I'll be swapping that for some 2.5W when I can get round to it.

 

[blacktiger]

I watched a few maintenance videos and discovered that the compression and rebound damping oils are in separate chambers in the RH fork leg. So I changed my compression damping oil to 2.5W and went for a ride over and around the South Downs west of Eastbourne this morning and the results are great. The forks absorb the bumps now rather than crashing into them. It's smoother and more comfortable.

 

[Mountie]

I always go back to SRAM chains but when my Guides started sticking I put the generation 2 guides on my Levo and they seem a lot better.

 

[Grannyjones]

How do you service the wheel bearings and wheel hubs on the Roval Traverses ? Any instruction manuals or videos ? Not toched them after 3000km.

 

[Mikerb]

simple enough and does not take long. The bearings are sealed cartridge so not really serviceable...best to just replace them if they have play or are rough.
Rear Wheel:
remove cassette and freehub
remove axle
Drive out both bearings ( 6903) and replace......or if running smooth just clean and apply a little grease to the face of the bearings.
Clean and grease
Check freehub bearings....replace as required...(6902). Possibly replace pawls and spring ( DT Swiss Service kit)......assuming its not the ratchet type. Clean and grease
Clean cassette
Reassemble

Front Wheel:
Remove boost spacers
Remove end caps
Remove axle
Check/clean...bit of grease on bearing face if OK...or replace bearings ( 6902)
Reassemble.

In my experience the rear hub bearings take a beating and are more likely to need replacing. Freehub bearings are usually OK unless a lot of water and dirt has been allowed to get in ( ie not checked and cleaned/regreased regularly). Front wheel bearings similarly take less of a bashing.

At 3000km I would be replacing all hub bearings.

 

[1Nixxxo]

Apologies for resurrecting a very old thread, but..
Did you ever get around to the wheel upgrade, and if so which ones would you recommend/suggest
My Roval trails feel meh!

I run custom Hope Pro4 / DT Swiss EX511 (rear), XM481 front. Super reliable, rebuildable wheelset and quite light. It’s on the second ebike, didn’t have any troubles with not so ebije specific rims. I’m 116 kg without gear, so I assume all those ebike specific rims are just marketing BS and nothing more.

 

[blacktiger]

Doesn’t taking the motor out void the warranty ?????!!!! Don’t pick my levo up till Monday & im wondering if I’ve made the write choice.....

No. Taking it out won't but taking the motor apart does though.

 

[1Nixxxo]

Did anyone tried SKF MTRX bearings? I’ve been waiting for them in common sizes for a few years and now they are available. They are stuffed with polymer instead of grease and this polimer is filled with oil. SKF promotes lifetime warranty ?, but will not ever believe in this.

Though they don’t manufacture Hope specific bearings,I found one of three sizes available for Hope Pro 4. But they have all sizes for DT Swiss hubs, so does anyone already fitted them?

SKF MTRX Bearing

 

[akbud]

500km of it was wet and muddy and sandy riding which is very unusual here. I only used a wax based chain lube, and the chain copped it.
The shop took the motor out, but in future I will do it myself.

What does "copped it" mean? That's a slang phrase I have never heard.

 

[Mikerb]

originally caught or arrested by the coppers ( Police) but often used more broadly to infer receiving any form of negative outcome.

 

[Tribey]

Yes, in war films, it'll mean killed, the same as happened to outerlimits chain!

 

[Turbo Mike]

This is what happened to mine

View attachment 916

Your are a crusher !! Wow!! So sorry that happened to you. Hopefully not too far out or replacement links!

 

[wagonrd]

Good advice for me - I'm a newbie, and my Levo Turbo Expert is my first e-bike. Can I ask you on suitable alternative wheel set please, I have the OE Roval Trails. Almost straight away I found that I had to upgrade the standard bars/grips for 35mm Fat Bar/Apex stem Renthals and this also made a huge improvement to the feel of the bike. There is just so much power on tap, it is a heavy bike after all is said and done.

My turbo levo is too heavy for me to hoist up and onto the bike rack, (well, I can wrestle it up, but it's a struggle);so I'm having a welding shop construct a hoist bar extending up and over the supports; from that hoist bar I will attack a small block and tackle ropes and pulleys. Looks like I may soon be in the market for a 30 lb ebike.

 

[Binhill1]

My turbo levo is too heavy for me to hoist up and onto the bike rack, (well, I can wrestle it up, but it's a struggle);so I'm having a welding shop construct a hoist bar extending up and over the supports; from that hoist bar I will attack a small block and tackle ropes and pulleys. Looks like I may soon be in the market for a 30 lb ebike.

Yes I know what you mean i still manage to lift it on rear rack of campervan rack but just it's heavy . I had to haul it over a deer fence the other day no mean feat , an accident waiting to happen probably . Older you get the worse it gets. Few more years may have take wheels off battery out a step to get on and off it and put it in car .

 

[smokin joe's]

This is what happened to mine

View attachment 916

I've had kmc chains in the past no good in sand and prefer sram pcx1 x11 , lasts about 500 -600 miles I never lube my chains only makes grit and muck stick to them thereby making it noisy and I've been doing to all my bikes for years including motorbikes offroad ect .chains wear from inside, why o ring chains have grease sealed in them , that's gonna upset the chain lube suppliers

 

[Binhill1]

I've had kmc chains in the past no good in sand and prefer sram pcx1 x11 , lasts about 500 -600 miles I never lube my chains only makes grit and muck stick to them thereby making it noisy and I've been doing to all my bikes for years including motorbikes offroad ect .chains wear from inside, why o ring chains have grease sealed in them , that's gonna upset the chain lube suppliers

When I first got in to mountain biking in 80s I used a custom frame builder for all my repairs. He showed me how he lubed a chain and put a drop of oil on his finger that's enough for the whole chain he said . So you may be right , lot on here would not agree though.

 

[Hoozie]

I put vaseĺine on and sprayed connection with electric cleaning stuff been ok. To be honest I just wipe with cloth seems ok. Got hit by a wave Sunday went oh sugar waiting for motor to konk out but all was ok. Sometimes I think we are being too fussy and cleaning to often.

This lube is what we use for all electrical connections at work, to be noted that you do not put it on the actual wires / conductors inside the plug, but on the O-ring/ seal / gasket/ IP washer etc. Good stuff !!
Personally I use it on my seat post dropper after every ride, Only a really thin layer though