Shimano Brake Center Lock Rotor Hack - Converting a RT-MT800 into a RT-EM810 magnetic rotor

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
Hello,

This tech article will describe how to convert a Shimano "Non-Magnetic" RT-MT800 center lock brake rotor into a "Magnetic" RT-EM810 brake rotor. I hope you find this article useful.

If your bike has Shimano brakes, you will have likely noticed there is a shortage of Shimano brake parts. This is especially so in the United States. Attempting to locate eBike parts can be a difficult process and premium prices are charged by vendors for parts when they are available.

An example of this is the 203mm "Magnetic" RT-EM810 center lock brake rotor seen pictured below. In the United States, a 203mm "Magnetic" RT-EM810 center lock brake rotor, much like a unicorn, is almost impossible to source. To complicate matters further, Shimano prevents USA customers from purchasing Shimano parts from European vendors. Because of the scarcity, prices in the area of $100 to $120 are typically charged for the 203mm RT-EM800 rotor.

1670365912524.png



The "Non-Magnetic" RT-MT800 203mm version, seen pictured below can be readily sourced and commands a much cheaper price, typically in the area of $50 to $55.

1670366387536.png


So....what's the difference between the two rotors? An examination of the back of the RT-EM810 rotor revels a removable magnetic insert which is held in place by two 3MM screws.

Backside of a RT-EM810 center lock brake rotor with magnetic insert secured via two 3mm screws
IMG_2410.jpg


Backside of a RT-EM810 center lock brake rotor with magnetic insert and screws removed.
4.JPG


The $50 dollar question.......is it possible to retrofit the magnetic insert onto a non-magnetic RT-MT800 brake rotor? If so, how hard would the process be? What tools would I need? I purchased a RT-MT800 203mm rotor for $55 and decided to find out. The process turned out to be easy and took about 15 minutes. The process required only a few tools which I will discuss below.

Backside view of a non-magnetic RT-MT800 rotor. It is identical to the RT-EM810 rotor, however the magnet assembly is missing and the hole where the magnet goes is not bored all the way through the rotor carrier. Also, the two 3mm screw holes are not drilled and threaded.
1.JPG


Close up view of the RT-MT800 hole
Screenshot 2023-11-18 08.18.33.jpg


Frontside view of the same RT-MT800 brake rotor. Note the lack of bore hole through the carrier for the magnet assembly.
2.JPG


To convert a RT-MT800 non-magnetic brake rotor into a magnetic RT-EM810 brake rotor, you will need the following part and tools:

1. A used RT-EM810 brake rotor from which you can harvest the magnetic insert and two 3mm screws. If you do not have an old RT-EM810 in the used parts bin, check with your local bike shop. They may have a worn out rotor sitting in the rubbish bin.

2. A "Metric" M3 x 0.5 Spiral Flute Tap and 2.5mm drill bit. I purchased a tap and drill bit set on Amazon for $9.49. Pictured below is the set I bought and used.

3. I used an American size "X" drill bit to bore the hole for the magnetic insert. If you have trouble sourcing a size X drill bit, a 10mm drill bit will work.

10.JPG


Note: I performed the conversion process on a 203mm RT-MT800 brake rotor. I cannot confirm if you can use this conversion process on a 160mm or 180mm RT-MT800, however I would think the process would be the same for these rotors also.

Conversion Process:

1.
I started off by drilling out the magnetic insert bore hole using the size X/10mm drill bit. Start from the inner side using the existing bore hole as a guide. The brake rotor carrier is made out of soft aluminum and the process to drill the hole was easy. Be sure to support the brake rotor so it does not rock back and forth during the drilling process.

3.JPG


10mm hole drilled through the carrier on the Rt-MT800 carrier
8.JPG


2. I next placed the magnetic insert into the bore hole. I lined up the magnet plate with the two untapped bosses. Using a fine tip pencil, I marked the center of each hole and boss. This is where the 2.5 mm holes will be drilled and threaded. I removed the magnetic insert. Using a fine point center punch, I stamped the center of each mark left by the pencil.

Screenshot 2023-11-18 08.18.33.jpg



3. Using the 2.5mm drill bit, I drilled out the two bosses (Looks like the ears on Mickey Mouse) which I previously marked with a center punch. Drill the bosses only to a depth sufficient to fully screw in the 3mm screws. Use caution not to drill all the way through the bosses and rotor carrier. I placed my drill motor on slow speed and took my time drilling the holes to a sufficient depth.

4.
Using the M3 x 0.5 tap, thread the two holes which you made using the 2.5mm drill bit.

5. Placed the magnetic insert back into the bore hole. Place a small dab of blue thread locker on each 3mm screw. Thread the screws into their holes and secure the magnetic insert to the carrier.

6. You may have some slight scratching around the bore hole. Take a black permanent marker and touch up the paint.

10mm hole drilled through the carrier. Two, 2.5mm holes drilled and taped to M3 thread standards.
7.JPG


Conversion completed. Magnet assembly installed on the RT-MT800 brake rotor.
IMG_2411.jpg


Front side of RT-MT800 carrier with magnet assembly installed.
9.JPG


I hope you've enjoyed this tech article and find it useful. If you have any questions, feel free to comment or send me a message.

Be safe,
Rod 3.JPG
 
Last edited:

Emailsucks98

Active member
Nov 12, 2020
347
406
Bellingham Wa
Cool hack. I found a standard cateye cyclometer magnet works fine with no drilling required- the threaded plastic "spoke" piece on the back, magnet threading into that through the hole.
 

ebsocalmtb

Active member
Sep 29, 2021
232
244
Southern-Cal
I just jb welded a magnet onto my rotors. I did consider going down this road but since I swap wheelsets between a few bikes, epoxy and magnets was more economical.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
I just jb welded a magnet onto my rotors. I did consider going down this road but since I swap wheelsets between a few bikes, epoxy and magnets was more economical.
ebsocalmtb,

When I first got my Rise, I tried the superglue the magnet to the rotor method. I had issues with the magnet overheating from direct contact with the rotor. When a magnet is exposed to higher temperatures, it will begin loosing it's magnetism. Heat in the area of 170 degrees Fahrenheit/80 Celsius will begin affecting a magnet. If the magnet is subjected to enough heat cycles, it will suffer permanent magnetic loss. Some magnets materials withstand heat better than others.


When I first got my Rise M20, I converted the two piston Deore brakes to SRAM G2 with 200mm brake rotors. SRAM does not make a magnetic brake rotor. I superglued a magnet to the brake rotor as depicted in the photo.
InkedIMG_0256_LI.jpg



Supergluing the magnet to my rotor worked fine for awhile. After awhile however, I began to experience the occasional fault code and loss of motor power. The fault code indicated a speed sensor issue. The power issues usually occurred after multiple applications of hard braking or after a high speed technical down hill run. I eventually figured out that the magnet was overheating and loosing magnetism. Once this occurred, the speed sensor did not pickup the magnet and would shut down the motor. After the magnet cooled off, my bike was good to go.

My thought is that there needs to be some form of insulation or cooling gap between the magnet and rotor to prevent the overheating. I'm not saying gluing a magnet to a rotor doesn't work. I think in your application, the JB Weld is providing enough insulation to keep the magnet from heating up. I superglued mine which offered no insulation and thus the failure.

Personally, I got tired of dicking around with magnets and trying to re-invent the wheel. I love to experiment, but I hate having a bricked bike trailside.

Shimano's RT-EM810 is a great rotor that's dependable. The rotor surface tends to not overheat and fade on hard downhill runs. I think the aluminum rotor carrier provides enough insulation and cooling which prevents the magnet from overheating. I can get a 203mm RT-MT800 for $50 as opposed to $110 for the RT-EM810. Whose your daddy....

Be safe,
Rod
 

TtheArab

Member
Jul 7, 2019
97
56
Hayabusa!303
Just in case anybody in the UK is struggling to find a 180mm version I have a spare unused having upgraded to 203mm using the Shimano ET-R810 203mm rotor as soon as I took delivery.
 
Last edited:

theremotejuggernaut

Active member
Aug 2, 2022
385
276
UK

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