Rise Bearing replacement

[b33k34]

So I've followed the 'Bearing Service' threads on here to strip down the first of our Rise's. Everything still felt ok while the rear end was all attached but when stripped I've stripped down the pivot
- the outer 6800 bearings are a little rough
- the 6802s are probably OK
- the 6804's in the frame feel horrible.

So I reckon it's time to replace the lot (again, while they dont feel terrible moving the stays is suspect the seat stay and main pivot will justify replacement as well.

But so far I've not found any instructions or videos setting out how to do it, nor worked out what tools are needed.

(this place sells a puller kit that seems reasonably price if it does include all the sizes needed - Bearing Puller Kit for Orbea Bikes - But doesn't seem to sell a corresponding set of presses).

Any advice?

 

[dthree]

Looks like it’s available on this page

Orbea Bearing Tool Kits

Each kit is tailor made to include all of the bearing press and bearing puller sizes required for the suspension pivots on the selected frame.

www.bearingprotools.com

 

[b33k34]

Kind of worries me that the kits are all 'hammer' drifts for the carbon parts.

 

[mascifm]

I used both the removal and insertion tools (pictured above) for both sides of the lower frame pivot on my 21' Rise M team (approx 2400 miles on it). They worked great, and I suspect as much from the upper pivot when I do that.

I too am curious about removing them from the seatstay..don't want to pound on the carbon. Was thinking using a large enough socket on one side and pushing it through with the insertion tool on the other side...

Removing them from the pivot rocker should be simple enough this way as well.

 

[b33k34]

Advice I’ve had is that the seat stays are a nightmare - especially the split ring - but they’re a large nesting for the location and unlikely to need replacing. I’m going to try just regreasing those (they’re very limited rotation as well)

 

[cookie70]

I too am curious about removing them from the seatstay

maybe one of these?

RapidRacerProducts | BPET

The Bearing Press and Extraction Tool is a simple tool used to extract and insert linkage bearings on mountain bikes

www.rapidracerproducts.com

 

[Rod B.]

Advice I’ve had is that the seat stays are a nightmare - especially the split ring - but they’re a large nesting for the location and unlikely to need replacing. I’m going to try just regreasing those (they’re very limited rotation as well)

b33k34, I don't want to provide incorrect information. The carbon seat stay itself has no bearing pressed into it, however there is a bearing in the linkage arm which the seat stay attaches to. I'm going to assume you mean the rear axle chain stay bearings?

Rise M Series rear Axle bearings, item 4.1, Enduro Bearing 6803 LLU-Max BO (Black Oxide finish)

Rise M20 chain stay, depicting rear axle bearing

Rise M series bikes are hit or miss when it comes to the bore on the rear axle chain stay where the bearing inserts. I've worked on multiple different M series bikes. It's been my experience that the milling on the chain stay bearing bore is often undersized and the carbon fiber roughly milled, i.e. it looks like a three year old did the milling. Seen in the picture directly above is the bearing bore on my 2021 Rise M20. Note the rough and unevenness of the bore around the perimeter of the bearing.

The 6803 bearing is a thin bearing. Depending upon how undersized the chain stay bearing bore is, it will distort the bearing and the bearing will either not rotate at all, or the bearing will feel notchy. Interestingly, when the bearing is removed from the bore, it will often spin freely again. The first time I encountered a frozen chain stay bearing, I removed it from the frame, only to discover it functioned fine. Not trusting the bearing, I purchased a new set of bearings and installed them. The new bearings felt notchy when installed. When I checked them after several weeks of Southern California riding, they were frozen again. I gave up messing with them and rode the chain stay bearings like they were and had no issues for 3,200 miles.

Removal & Installation:

The chain stay at the rear axle bearing is very thin. Due to the unevenness of the bearing bore, removing or pressing a bearing into the bore can be difficult. Do not use a hammer and punch, drift, die, automotive socket, etc. to remove or install the bearing. If you do pound on it, you stand a good chance of either damaging the chain stay or chipping the paint from the flexing of the carbon.

You want to use a bearing press to remove or install a rear axle chain stay bearing. When using the press to install the bearing first insure the bearing is perfectly lined up with the bore. If it is not, it will cock off angle when being pressed into place and damage the bore hole. I like to use my fingers to line up the bearing with the bore. I then seat it with a very light tap of a small hammer. I then use the bearing press to slowly press the bearing into place. You use the same bearing press tool to press the bearing from the chain stay.

Not all bearing press kits are the same. Some bearing press kits are made for larger sized bottom bracket or headset bearings and are too large and mostly unusable for smaller pivot bearings. You want a press designed for smaller bearings. Rapid Racer Products (RRP) and Bearing Pro Tools, both based in the U.K., make excellent bearing press and installers which are designed for smaller suspension bearings.

Note, when buying bearing press tools from RRP or Bearing Pro Tools, You purchase the press itself, i.e. all thread and the press handles. You then buy the individual dies for a specific bearing size. As an example, Rapid Racer Products (RRP) sells the press itself and then individual die kits for specific bearing sizes. Each die kit will consist of red anodized dies used for the bearing extraction and blue anodized dies used for bearing installation.

Here's a example of Rapid Racer Products bearing press being used for bearing removal. Note the Red anodized dies being used.

Here's a example of Rapid Racer Products bearing press being used for bearing installation. Note the blue anodized dies being used.

When buying Rapid Racer Products, you must buy the bearing press itself and then purchase adapter kits made for specific bearing sizes separately.

If you are on a limited budget, you can easily and cheaply fabricate your own bearing press by purchasing a length of threaded rod, i.e. 1/4" threaded rod, 1/4" nuts, and 1/4" fender washers. You then only have to buy the individual adapters. As for myself, I find it's just easier to work with a nicely machined bearing press with handles.


RRP adapter kit

Here's an example or Bearing Pro Tools bearing press and individually sold adapters or purchased as a set based upon the bike.