Relay Tips / Tricks
- Thread starter radchad
- Start date
100%, 13nm seems to be the ticket
LoL, yes. Funny enough, the name Mr Tonka comes from old car forums and carried over to YT and IG.
Yeah, the video production kinda stopped when life got more serious. Dad passed in 2019 and my creativity kinda slumped. My mom was quickly advancing into Alzheimer's and taking care of her pretty much sunk the creativity to the bottom. Not to get too personal, but life got heavy. But making some changes, feeling it come back with my riding and content creation. (instagram) Looking to sell my business and move out of state as soon as possible.
I've had some issues with the Relay turning on, displaying lights, but no power. Usually resolved by turning off and back on. Also have turned it on to get the flashing red lights, usually resolved by popping the battery and putting it back in. But I have been trying to be better about turning the bike off when I know it's going to be stationary long enough to turn itself off. And not once have I had either issue when I physically turned the bike off and then back on. Seems like the system has a bug regarding time out turn off. Didn't take notes or get scientific about it, but that's what my experiment points to.
I've had similar issues.
Sometimes the bike will just turn off while I'm riding, usually after a hard impact or rock garden. Upon turning the bike back on the lights will appear but there will be no power to the motor. Reseating the battery always solves the issue.
I've also had it just shutdown twice while climbing smooth trails and have no lights/not turn back on again until I reseat the battery. I've inspected the battery, cables and port and nothing looks damaged but there is defiantly something wrong.
I’ve noticed the bike powers down after I’ve been stopped for a while (battery saver I presume). What usually happens is I set off and think “this feels a bit sluggish” look down and notice at that point the display is off. You can’t seem to start the system if bike is moving. You then have to stop and then it turns on. As far as cutting out mid ride, I ve not had that, but during rattle/ knock solving, I noticed the battery connector was very loose on its chassis. Also the rubber seal around connector created a lot of friction which was making the connection not go fully home. I have attached a photo of my mod, that resolved this.
Hi there, new Relay owner here (about 250 miles so far) and the bike is awesome (except the Code brakes 
which I'll be replacing soon). I had a problem after the first couple rides where the bike would not turn on, or it would turn on, but only go to white lights (no assist). Transition was great and ovenighted me a new ring controller which fixed the problem.
Fazua also sent me a new (updated?) controller and LED hub which they say need to be replaced together. I have not done it yet since the bike is working perfectly now. Also Fazua sent me a new battery power plug/cable in case that was the problem, but I also have not replaced it yet. Maybe I will replace these when I replace the brakes, but has anyone installed the new(er) controller/hub and if so, is there any difference from the old one? TBH it looks and feels exactly the same to me.
Thanks!
which I'll be replacing soon). I had a problem after the first couple rides where the bike would not turn on, or it would turn on, but only go to white lights (no assist). Transition was great and ovenighted me a new ring controller which fixed the problem.Fazua also sent me a new (updated?) controller and LED hub which they say need to be replaced together. I have not done it yet since the bike is working perfectly now. Also Fazua sent me a new battery power plug/cable in case that was the problem, but I also have not replaced it yet. Maybe I will replace these when I replace the brakes, but has anyone installed the new(er) controller/hub and if so, is there any difference from the old one? TBH it looks and feels exactly the same to me.
Thanks!
New = replacement in this context. They haven't updated or changed them. it just seems that some controllers are a bit faulty after having the wires tugged on them. So be gentile with the wire at the control ring and only snug down the bolt tigetning the ring controller so it doesn't slip easily. Too much torque on that little screw can cause the controller to not work.Hi there, new Relay owner here (about 250 miles so far) and the bike is awesome (except the Code brakes
Fazua also sent me a new (updated?) controller and LED hub which they say need to be replaced together. I have not done it yet since the bike is working perfectly now. Maybe I will when I replace the brakes, but has anyone installed the new(er) controller/hub and if so, is there any difference from the old one? TBH it looks and feels exactly the same to me.
Thanks!
I like the controller, but I wish it was a touch more robust.
Anyone see any strange Power LED patterns? This weekend on two separate Relays, with 2 different firmwares, I saw similar light patters happen out of the blue, while not riding.
The pattern showed itself randomly with 4 lights, 3 lights and 2 lights and in any power mode.
Most complete pattern I saw went as follows: Solid 3 blue lights to one center blue light to blue light at the top and bottom, to blue light at the second from top and second from bottom to center, then back to normal. I saw that pattern and the opposite pattern on another Relay during the same ride. One time, the colors started green, did the pattern in pink, then back to green.
There were no controller inputs that prompted the lights, no app connections, nothing that seemed to prompt the flashing. Both bikes performed normally before and after the pattern flashes.
The pattern showed itself randomly with 4 lights, 3 lights and 2 lights and in any power mode.
Most complete pattern I saw went as follows: Solid 3 blue lights to one center blue light to blue light at the top and bottom, to blue light at the second from top and second from bottom to center, then back to normal. I saw that pattern and the opposite pattern on another Relay during the same ride. One time, the colors started green, did the pattern in pink, then back to green.
There were no controller inputs that prompted the lights, no app connections, nothing that seemed to prompt the flashing. Both bikes performed normally before and after the pattern flashes.
Weird
The only time I've seen weird LED light patterns is during App Connection and during Garmin connectivity
So this keeps happening. Looking at the Fazua LED manual, those light patterns happen when connecting to BLE and disconnecting from BLE. ??
I have owned a Relay for 2 weeks. I had the same problem bike shutting down on rough trail. My theory is the battery comes disconnected slightly. I have had to very slightly bend the metal tab down to get the battery to lock in good.
My first Ebike I originally bought a Relay for my wife and that turned into us fighting "I was riding it to much" So I picked up a Relay for my self. It's so fun to ride crossing my fingers we have no motor issues.
When we got my GFs Relay, the battery wouldn't go in so I bent the tab up and it went in fine. But the bike turned off at harsh jump landings (like 7 times in a single ride) and then on a big overshoot, the battery actually ejected. So I got back to the house, used needle nose to bend the tab at the 90 degree spot and did so far enough that the battery wouldn't insert. Then kept tilting it up every so slightly until the battery would insert. Since then, no shut offs and obviously no battery ejections.
Fazua actually improved the ring control meanwhile. The newer one has partly grained plastic and partly glossy.
They put stronger magnets in as far as i know, other changes i don‘t know, but also the sticking problem should be solved and should feel less flimsy.
I got mine replaced when i needed a motor replacement, so far no issues, but only 400km in.
I also boticed some clicking noise from the BB area, maybe the shock mount, maybe the motor screws, maybe the metal sleeves where the motor scews are screwed on to (in some other forum a member removed the sleeves and added friction paste as adviced by fazua which solved the creakig/clicking)
clicking in the motor area is common in this bike and it does take removing the motor cleaning greasing and reinserting + torque to spec w/ locktite (not terrible but kinda annoying). much better without clicking though.
I didn't think of friction paste. I used copper anti-seize the last time I pulled the motor to grease the metal sleeves. That was in January and so far, no creaking as of yet. (knock on wood)
If you find yourself doing some routine maintenance, you may wanna pull out the chainring bolts, re-loctite them and re-torque them. I've had mine come loose a few times. Actually lost a few. TR was nice enough to send me those bolts, an entire linkage hardware set and some swag free of charge.
I'm not sure about the tools for chainring. You can pull the cranks with an 8MM. Looked like the bash ring and chainring come off with a BB tool.
If you visit Transition Bikes support page, navigate to bikes, choose your Relay, you'll find torque settings. But I don't think the chainring bolts are listed. I went 8nm on mine.
I just made same anti squeak noise maintainment.
Thanks Mr. Tonka for the hint with the chainring screws. 3 of 4 already loose.
I applied assembly paste to the contacting surfaced, sticked the screws with locktite, applied a bit force clockwise (chain pulling direction), and torqued to 8,5Nm, this hopefully does the trick.
Regarding the motor metal sleeves it was quite tricky not to lose the small „grub spring“ (the one blocking the metal sleeves from twisting), because the motor couldn‘t be pulled out more to make it convenient. If it falls down it‘s lost in the frame.
How did you do it? Any trick?
View attachment IMG_1292.jpeg
Anyway, it worked out and i put assembly paste to the contact surfaces, metal sleeves and „grub springs“.
Let‘s see if and how long it helps.
One other topic, unfortunately my rear brake hose is faulty from factory and i need to replace it.
Anyone did this already?
Thanks Mr. Tonka for the hint with the chainring screws. 3 of 4 already loose.
I applied assembly paste to the contacting surfaced, sticked the screws with locktite, applied a bit force clockwise (chain pulling direction), and torqued to 8,5Nm, this hopefully does the trick.
Regarding the motor metal sleeves it was quite tricky not to lose the small „grub spring“ (the one blocking the metal sleeves from twisting), because the motor couldn‘t be pulled out more to make it convenient. If it falls down it‘s lost in the frame.
How did you do it? Any trick?
View attachment IMG_1292.jpeg
Anyway, it worked out and i put assembly paste to the contact surfaces, metal sleeves and „grub springs“.
Let‘s see if and how long it helps.
One other topic, unfortunately my rear brake hose is faulty from factory and i need to replace it.
Anyone did this already?
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I pull the motor entirely out of the frame and do the maintenance on the bench.
Actually have my GF's motor out currently. She's doing a custom wrap on the frame and installing the in line speed deregulator upon reinstall. Interested to see how that works out.
Yes, replaced my rear brake this past weekend. I had gold TRP DHR Evos on my DH bike. I swapped them over to the Blue Relay because I went with a Kashima accent color for the bike. I was able to do it with the motor in the bike, but it would be much easier without the motor installed. There is no Tube in Tube tech on this bike, so make sure to attached something to the defective brake hose before pulling it out. Something sturdy. I used an old brake cable. Make sure it can go the length of the bike and put a zip tie around the end with the metal stopper so it doesn't fall into the frame.
I also re routed the LED box wire to the other side of the battery. Makes for much more room to add cable dampening tubing to the brake hose, cable housing and eeee wires.
I also added a small bit of foam under the battery plug to make a more solid connection. Added a bit of lube around the gasket as well. (both are tips I found in this thread) Zip tied all the wires and cables back down, added a bit of foam in the down tube above and below the battery. Bike was very quiet and solid feeling the next ride.
Actually have my GF's motor out currently. She's doing a custom wrap on the frame and installing the in line speed deregulator upon reinstall. Interested to see how that works out.
Yes, replaced my rear brake this past weekend. I had gold TRP DHR Evos on my DH bike. I swapped them over to the Blue Relay because I went with a Kashima accent color for the bike. I was able to do it with the motor in the bike, but it would be much easier without the motor installed. There is no Tube in Tube tech on this bike, so make sure to attached something to the defective brake hose before pulling it out. Something sturdy. I used an old brake cable. Make sure it can go the length of the bike and put a zip tie around the end with the metal stopper so it doesn't fall into the frame.
I also re routed the LED box wire to the other side of the battery. Makes for much more room to add cable dampening tubing to the brake hose, cable housing and eeee wires.
I also added a small bit of foam under the battery plug to make a more solid connection. Added a bit of lube around the gasket as well. (both are tips I found in this thread) Zip tied all the wires and cables back down, added a bit of foam in the down tube above and below the battery. Bike was very quiet and solid feeling the next ride.
I just swaped the rear brake hose.
It‘s really a pain, because the hose gets easily stuck. I used the RS barb connector to connect the old hose with the new one and applied sram butter to the hose to get it through. I was really afraid the barb connector gets stuck, but luckily worked out…
And zip tying the hose back to the battery bracket is also kind of fiddly, would be much easier with cable tubes…
It’s a flaw Transition saved on cable tubes on a 12k bike…
The foam to silent down the cables I didn‘t need yet, but let‘s see now when the cables were moved in the brake hose session
Btw, the anti squeak work with assembly paste payed off, completely silent now, let‘s see how long it holds up.
It‘s really a pain, because the hose gets easily stuck. I used the RS barb connector to connect the old hose with the new one and applied sram butter to the hose to get it through. I was really afraid the barb connector gets stuck, but luckily worked out…
And zip tying the hose back to the battery bracket is also kind of fiddly, would be much easier with cable tubes…
It’s a flaw Transition saved on cable tubes on a 12k bike…
The foam to silent down the cables I didn‘t need yet, but let‘s see now when the cables were moved in the brake hose session
Btw, the anti squeak work with assembly paste payed off, completely silent now, let‘s see how long it holds up.
Curious which one you used and if it works well. For general riding this doesn't seem to be needed but for commuting to the trail it seems like a good idea, the bike is much harder to pedal at the same speed as my trail bike on the road and feels a bit slow vs cars and other riders (which, funny enough, feels a bit more dangerous actually)
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