After some investigation and testing I ended up finding out that was the problem.I have the same problem, the freehub has been cleaned and greased several times, but it only worked for a short time.
Jaysus, there's some steep (!) ruts in there, holy moly! Good riding, not sure I'd be comfortable with a lot of that stuff, good effort.Video of one descent here to give myself some credibility
I've also changed mine to 155 FSA CK400 cranks arms and thinner Spank Oozy pedals. Makes a massive differenceFor anyone who was considering going for shorter cranks, I can confirm they totally transform the ride.
Went for Hope 155mm on my medium and absolutely loving them - hardly ever get pedal strikes now. No effect on pedal performance that I could detect.
View attachment 110088
Hey, did u use the original hardware(screws,bolts,...) or do hope cranks come with some?For anyone who was considering going for shorter cranks, I can confirm they totally transform the ride.
Went for Hope 155mm on my medium and absolutely loving them - hardly ever get pedal strikes now. No effect on pedal performance that I could detect.
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It’s a straight swap, took about 10 mins.Hey, did u use the original hardware(screws,bolts,...) or do hope cranks come with some?
I hate the auto assist , I so want to like it but there are so many things i dont like about it, I stick with manual modes.I wish the Smart Assist assistance level could be adjusted. It doesn't feel natural at all to me. I hope the opportunity would come sometime.
It's great that these updates came.
It does as I found out, you may as well work out your distance based on 90% use as the last 10% drops very quickly its just how lithium batteries work its annoying but once you get your head around it is fine - they must be able to calibrate this out in software and show actual energy remaining in the battery but they dont dont think anyone does.I felt like the last 20% evaporated into thin air and I had to pedal in off mode the last mostly flat 3 km.
Flintronic E-bike Battery Cover, Anti-Scratch Battery Protection Cover for Integrated Frame Battery, Against Water/Dust/Cold, Extending the Runtime and Life - Universal 30-38 cm Circumference https://amzn.eu/d/1ji0BWQAnyone recommend a downtube/battery cover...
I bought one from amazon that's says upto 38cm but its was too small (tbh it was more a 36cm one...)
That's the one I bought and I can get about 1 x 10cm section of the velcro to overlap nothing else measured it showes more like 37cmFlintronic E-bike Battery Cover, Anti-Scratch Battery Protection Cover for Integrated Frame Battery, Against Water/Dust/Cold, Extending the Runtime and Life - Universal 30-38 cm Circumference https://amzn.eu/d/1ji0BWQ
I bought this one and it just about fits. I had to cut a section out to clear my Fidlock bottle mount but it does work okay (on my large frame).
Maybe there's some variation in them when they're manufactured then?That's the one I bought and I can get about 1 x 10cm section of the velcro to overlap nothing else measured it showes more like 37cm
Like trailaddict said, adjust the mechanism, although you will need a safety torx bit for it...one advice from my experience is to do it with the bike in normal(not upside down) position, so the battery doesn't push down on the lock mechanism while you align it. It's a tedious job as it needs to be set very precise for good operation. Good luck.Weird issue on my bike as I'm not able to remove the battery anymore.
I press the little metal clip to undo it and the battery comes down 1cm, but then it's getting stuck again.
I believe the mechanism moved down just a little bit or the lock is not coming back enough by a small margin.
I another option upgrade to a DT Swiss ratchetAfter some investigation and testing I ended up finding out that was the problem.
The problem is with the axle pacer the original is aluminum and the ones they sell to replace are steel.
Basically axle space starts to wear out and when tightening the axle screw with the indicated 15 nm, it starts to put a lot of load on the bearings. A way to test to see if this is your problem is to tighten the shaft screw with 9/10 nm if it works fine, that's the problem.
In my case that was the problem and the part that needs to be bought is this one
DT Swiss 10.1 mm steel axle spacer for 3-pawl freehubs, HBDT985
DT Swiss 10.1 mm steel axle spacer for 3-pawl freehubs, HBDT985 , Price: £2.99. Genuine DT Swiss 10.1 mm steel axle spacer for 3-pawl freehubswww.giantbikespares.com
Like trailaddict said, adjust the mechanism, although you will need a safety torx bit for it...one advice from my experience is to do it with the bike in normal(not upside down) position, so the battery doesn't push down on the lock mechanism while you align it. It's a tedious job as it needs to be set very precise for good operation. Good luck.
good day all,I another option upgrade to a DT Swiss ratchet
I had a similar issue had to pry the battery out carefully, i ended out removing and stripping my latch a small piece of plastic had lodged inside preventing the latch from fully winding out removed it greased the mech and it was fine.Weird issue on my bike as I'm not able to remove the battery anymore.
I press the little metal clip to undo it and the battery comes down 1cm, but then it's getting stuck again.
I believe the mechanism moved down just a little bit or the lock is not coming back enough by a small margin.
I just spoke to one of the top suspension guys in France (Novyparts) about doing this to my Zeb, his answer was: if you are looking to affect your geo go ahead, but from a suspension point of view it is very hard to get full travel out of a 180mm without making it too soft overall.Has anyone increased the travel of their Zeb/38 to 180mm travel at all? If so, how much difference do you feel it's made?
Max from NovyParts is a smart guy, you couldn't get better advice Have you tried riding chainless over these stones? At least you would know if it is your transmission... otherwise check torque of your tightened bolts. otherwise your shock may need servicing maybe has some sticking points or an issue with rebound being too slow. do you have acess to an other shock to try?I just spoke to one of the top suspension guys in France (Novyparts) about doing this to my Zeb, his answer was: if you are looking to affect your geo go ahead, but from a suspension point of view it is very hard to get full travel out of a 180mm without making it too soft overall.
Question: Anyone have/fixed a weird delayed response in their suspension, kind of like an aftershock: if I smash over a rock, I will get delayed shake/pull from the rear suspension about a quarter/half second later. Similar feel to wearing a loose backpack that smacks back into you after landing jumps...
It feels really like something heavy is loose on the bike, e.g. the battery is shaking in the frame, but this isn't the case everything is solid. My two theories are that it is either the new derailleur (11s GX) with an overly tight spring pulling against the suspension, or the shock (Fox Float DPX2) isn't setup right or giving issues (I tried using a lot of rebound and no rebound to little effect)... Anyone feel something similar or have advice in general (beyond "avoid the rocks")
If you won’t be riding the bike for a while remember to charge the battery only to 60%. The smart charger that comes with the bike can do this. Just press the long led button so it shows orange.Question on battery life. I have the 22 Reign e+2.
I have 800 miles on it, 11 charge cycles and battery health is 99%. Had it for about year but only rode it about half that time due to injury.
This normal for miles ridden and time for battery to drop to 99%?
That's a 1% drop not a concern at all.Question on battery life. I have the 22 Reign e+2.
I have 800 miles on it, 11 charge cycles and battery health is 99%. Had it for about year but only rode it about half that time due to injury.
This normal for miles ridden and time for battery to drop to 99%?
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