[POLL] Hanging an eMTB by it's dropper post in a workshop stand?

[RipGroove]

Physics says that hanging my heavy bike level from a dropper post that isn't at the centre mass of the bike is putting alot of stress on the internals of the post (I assume bushes), here:

So which way is the recommended method?

A: Bike level, dropper post at an angle. (Easier to work on)

B: Dropper post level, bike at an angle. (Slighly less easier to work on)

C: Let the bike find it's own angle. (Even less easier to work on)

D: Don't be lazy, raise the dropper out of the frame a bit more and clamp the main body of it. (Potentially having the bike at any angle you want without stressing the dropper's internals but potentially stressing the frame where the dropper's body is mounted)(Not Pictured, too lazy )

E: None of the above (comment below)

Also curious about how others do it, some carbon frames are odd shapes like my Cube and I don't like the idea of winding a clamp down on a carbon tube anyway.

Note: I am aware of this video where they reckon just 27Nm of rotational force is applied when henging a normal MTB with a weight of about 30lbs which the dropper should handle just fine. I used Chat GPT to extrapolate their figures assuming a heavier bike of 53lbs and it reckons just under 48Nm of force instead, whether the dropper is OK with that I donlt know. Even so, when the bike is clamped level I swear I can see the dropper post bending (probably just seeing things, but just doesn't seem right to me)

 

[militantmandy]

Is c really any harder to work on than a?

 

[RipGroove]

Is c really any harder to work on than a?

Not in the grand scheme of things no, just depends what you're doing. C wouldn't be ideal for bleeding a rear brake mind you!

 

[BuzzinHornets]

While I voted B I actually run AXS droppers on both my emtb so when it goes in the stand I yank that and use and old crappy Bontrager post instead. Prob overkill to be honest but it gives me piece of mind for very little effort.

 

[RipGroove]

While I voted B I actually run AXS droppers on both my emtb so when it goes in the stand I yank that and use and old crappy Bontrager post instead. Prob overkill to be honest but it gives me piece of mind for very little effort.

I thought of that but internally routed droppers make that a bit of a chore.

 

[militantmandy]

Not in the grand scheme of things no, just depends what you're doing. C wouldn't be ideal for bleeding a rear brake mind you!

No but in that case you'd likely have both wheels off which would make things easier. I clamp by frame in that case. As long as you're careful I think it's incredibly unlikely you'd damage the frame.

 

[KenX]

I always use C, even if I need to remove the wheels.......

 

[Richywalker64]

I use a Halfords false cross bar

 

[RipGroove]

I use a Halfords false cross bar

That's actually a really good idea, wonder if my internally routed headset cables would get in the way of that, will investigate further. I take it it's sturdy enough then?

 

[Richywalker64]

Yes they probably will, they do on my 2022 Cube
I have rerouted the Kiox wire as I noticed it was getting trapped between the stem and false cross bar , the cables can be pushed to one side

 

[RipGroove]

Yes they probably will, they do on my 2022 Cube
I have rerouted the Kiox wire as I noticed it was getting trapped between the stem and false cross bar , the cables can be pushed to one side

Nice, this the one you have? Halfords False Cross Bar | Halfords UK they reckon it is rated to just 15kg but if it works it works.

 

[Paulquattro]

Non of the above
I clamp the top tube i wouldnt personally clamp the dropper by the moving part
Would you clamp your fork stantions ?

 

[RipGroove]

Non of the above
I clamp the top tube i wouldnt personally clamp the dropper by the moving part
Would you clamp your fork stantions ?

Park seem to think it's fine. I can't clamp the frame because it's carbon, and carbon really doesn't like that.

 

[steve_sordy]

I use the dropper stanchion, but leave the front wheel on the ground. If I need to work on the front wheel, I drape the bike over the work stand top bar. The work stand top bar is at the top of the down tube, underneath the head tube. I am not averse to putting the bike upside down on the floor if I need to do some large torque work, like removing the cassette or any work on the BB.

If I was going to suspend the bike on the dropper, I would pull it out a bit and use the dropper body. But I know where the dropper cable is and can do what is required not to jam it up when reverting to normal (unlike my now closed LBS who bent the cable and ruined it!)

 

[Paulquattro]

Park seem to think it's fine. I can't clamp the frame because it's carbon, and carbon really doesn't like that.

Im not picking here so dont shoot me down But Park dont make the dropper you would be more in the know if you specifically asked the manufacturer of the post
Just a thought

 

[Stoffel]

I would use a carbon frame protector like something off a Thule bike carrier clamp and hold it by the top tube.

You could place it on the open clamp stand easily and get the bike sitting level and then carefully nip up the clamp to stop it moving around.

It wouldn’t need to be any tighter than when it is on a bike carrier unless you’re hammering away at it.

 

[RipGroove]

Im not picking here so dont shoot me down But Park dont make the dropper you would be more in the know if you specifically asked the manufacturer of the post
Just a thought

That's a valid point. In the Park video they crunched the numbers and reckon there's only about 27Nm of rotational torque (when hanging a non ebike) and they are assuming that the dropper can handle that, so yeah, some assumption is involved.

 

[Shjay]

Non of the above
I clamp the top tube i wouldnt personally clamp the dropper by the moving part
Would you clamp your fork stantions ?

D is not clamping the stanchion & no I wouldn’t clamp forks by stanchion or top tube of carbon frame!!

 

[Mikerb]

This has all been discussed before and the main argument for using the dropper post is that Park Tool say it is OK ( Park Tool supply the majority of LBS with their stands and dont make dropper posts!!).
Physics tells me it is a terrible idea when the average full fat EMTB weighs c 24kg and due to the position of the battery and heavy duty forks like Zebs or Fox 38s the bikes are invariably front heavy. The stress on the dropper post and seat tube is large and bear in mind also that when you are working on the bike it is not stationary.
For me the optimum solution is a platform type stand when the bike is supported under the motor and with a fork mount ( albeit you can support either the fork or the rear of the bike in the fork mount). The downside is that the front or rear wheel has to be removed first but that is the stand I use for any extended work on the bike. For simple cleaning/lubrication I use a standard ( Halfords) bike stand with a set of cheap drop handlebars in the clamp such that the bike merely hooks over the ends of that handlebar.

 

[RipGroove]

This has all been discussed before and the main argument for using the dropper post is that Park Tool say it is OK ( Park Tool supply the majority of LBS with their stands and dont make dropper posts!!).
Physics tells me it is a terrible idea when the average full fat EMTB weighs c 24kg and due to the position of the battery and heavy duty forks like Zebs or Fox 38s the bikes are invariably front heavy. The stress on the dropper post and seat tube is large and bear in mind also that when you are working on the bike it is not stationary.
For me the optimum solution is a platform type stand when the bike is supported under the motor and with a fork mount ( albeit you can support either the fork or the rear of the bike in the fork mount). The downside is that the front or rear wheel has to be removed first but that is the stand I use for any extended work on the bike. For simple cleaning/lubrication I use a standard ( Halfords) bike stand with a set of cheap drop handlebars in the clamp such that the bike merely hooks over the ends of that handlebar.

That's another good tip about using dropper bars as hooks, I like that!

 

[Mikerb]

That's another good tip about using dropper bars as hooks, I like that!

 

[RipGroove]

I've added an option E to the Poll for 'None of the above' as that is seeming more common currently.

 

[RipGroove]

View attachment 121172 View attachment 121173 View attachment 121174

Tidy! It's given me an idea actually so I'm going to make something.

 

[Mikerb]

View attachment 121172 View attachment 121173 View attachment 121174

 

[JStrube]

I use one of those crossbars meant for hanging a bike on a car rack. Goes from stem to seat.

 

[Richywalker64]

Nice, this the one you have? Halfords False Cross Bar | Halfords UK they reckon it is rated to just 15kg but if it works it works.

Yes that's the one

 

[RipGroove]

Yes that's the one

Cool thanks.

 

[militantmandy]

This has all been discussed before and the main argument for using the dropper post is that Park Tool say it is OK ( Park Tool supply the majority of LBS with their stands and dont make dropper posts!!).
Physics tells me it is a terrible idea when the average full fat EMTB weighs c 24kg and due to the position of the battery and heavy duty forks like Zebs or Fox 38s the bikes are invariably front heavy. The stress on the dropper post and seat tube is large and bear in mind also that when you are working on the bike it is not stationary.
For me the optimum solution is a platform type stand when the bike is supported under the motor and with a fork mount ( albeit you can support either the fork or the rear of the bike in the fork mount). The downside is that the front or rear wheel has to be removed first but that is the stand I use for any extended work on the bike. For simple cleaning/lubrication I use a standard ( Halfords) bike stand with a set of cheap drop handlebars in the clamp such that the bike merely hooks over the ends of that handlebar.

Not trying to be flippant but aren't you exerting far far more force on the post when you're sitting on it battering up a rocky climb?

 

[Tooks]

Physics tells me it is a terrible idea when the average full fat EMTB weighs c 24kg and due to the position of the battery and heavy duty forks like Zebs or Fox 38s the bikes are invariably front heavy. The stress on the dropper post and seat tube is large and bear in mind also that when you are working on the bike it is not stationary.

Equally, physics tells me that if the dropper post can take my 90kg sitting on it, whilst going over rocks, roots and compressions, it can also take the weight of the bike it’s attached to.

As it happens, I don’t hang my bikes by the dropper, but that’s because I lightly clamp the top tubes, which in my bikes are all alloy. I’d have no qualms hanging from the fatter section of a dropper post though if my frames were carbon.

 

[Mikerb]

Not trying to be flippant but aren't you exerting far far more force on the post when you're sitting on it battering up a rocky climb?

no...I stand on the pedals to climb