When you're using the crossbar the weight is split between the seat and stem, it's also rubber and I find the cables tend to not be at the point that supports the weight anyway.
Plus hydraulic hose is quite tough, I've not had any issues using one.
[POLL] Hanging an eMTB by it's dropper post in a workshop stand?
- Thread starter RipGroove
- Start date
When you're using the crossbar the weight is split between the seat and stem, it's also rubber and I find the cables tend to not be at the point that supports the weight anyway.
Plus hydraulic hose is quite tough, I've not had any issues using one.
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks, next time I'm near a Halfords I'll go see if they have one so I can have look.
Are you guys sure that you can get cross-bar at Halford’s. Maybe it’s an EU thing?
I use the Saris cross-bar and the computer wire was at risk of getting pinched. I re-routed that wire. The brake cables exiting directly under the stem looks like a problem though. My brake cables exit the lower tube. Maybe you could modify that area.
- Thread starter
- #94
Are you guys sure that you can get cross-bar at Halford’s. Maybe it’s an EU thing?
I use the Saris cross-bar and the computer wire was at risk of getting pinched. I re-routed that wire. The brake cables exiting directly under the stem looks like a problem though. My brake cables exit the lower tube. Maybe you could modify that area.
Halfords False Cross Bar | Halfords UK
Shop the latest The Halfords False Cross Bar allows your bike to carried level on a rear cycle carrier. at Halfords UK
www.halfords.com
It is strange that with the popularity of emtb no manufacturer has come up with a specific product. None of my bikes can be clamped on the top tube due to the shape of the frame triangle and the position of the shock. Where it is possible to use the top tube but the frame is carbon it is not advisable to clamp or even merely hang the bike that way since the composite will not be optimised for forces in vertical directions.
The platform type stand as supplied by Park Tool and a few others resolves most of the issues but they are expensive and some modification is still required since they are designed to support a bottom bracket rather than a solid motor housing. I modified my Park Tool platform stand using a rubber block jammed between the bottom bracket "spikes" . An adjustable cradle that could match the width of the motor would be a better solution....I will get around to making one some day!!
The platform type stand as supplied by Park Tool and a few others resolves most of the issues but they are expensive and some modification is still required since they are designed to support a bottom bracket rather than a solid motor housing. I modified my Park Tool platform stand using a rubber block jammed between the bottom bracket "spikes" . An adjustable cradle that could match the width of the motor would be a better solution....I will get around to making one some day!!
That looks like a good idea.
What’s the material used for the tubing? Maybe it could be modified to fit and suspend both wheels for easy servicing and/or storage.
- Thread starter
- #97
It's a roadie handlebar covered in pipe lagging
Oh…I see it now. Thanks
.Maybe even some old grips on the ends.
Now I just need to convince a “Roadie” that a broomstick is much better in exchange for their dropbars. Should be easy.
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you may have a point there
- Thread starter
- #100
I'm pretty sure seat posts are subjected to forces in multiple directions when in use, especially when sat on while climbing up hills, and when doing wheelies. But yeah, there's sever reasons why I'm not totally comfortable holding the bikes entire weight from the dropper stantion anyway.
so is a carabiner but is normally positioned in such a way to provide maximum strength. In my opinion best practice is to not clamp the post unless necessary remember it's smooth surface as well which is another factor to consider.
A carabiner and a dropper post are not the same, and designed to do quite different things.
Avoiding surface damage by not clamping a dropper post is of course a perfectly valid reason for not doing it, but with soft jaws it’s still fine.
I’ve seen our esteemed forum host clamping EMTBs by the post, and he seems to know what he’s doing.
dthree
Active member
I checked a few manufacturers websites. In additional to your document showing Fox recommending clamping the upper portion, PNW says you can clamp top but bottom is preferred. Crank Brother says don’t clamp on the top, below the collar only. Several others I checked had no recommendation at all. None said don’t clamp to a workstand.
What about that grain of sand that got missed. Again my point is not to say you can't
but that why do it if you don't have to. The point about the carabiner is that it's ability changes when side loaded.
But a dropper post (or just a standard seat post for that matter) is designed to take substantial side loads, it would be useless as a seatpost if it couldn’t.
I do C because.... it just looks less stressful on the post
BUT I weight 230+lbs, and hammer the shit out of the bike, the stresses it goes under with me sat on it are far higher than hanging a 20kg bike from the post lol
Probably over-thinking it
BUT I weight 230+lbs, and hammer the shit out of the bike, the stresses it goes under with me sat on it are far higher than hanging a 20kg bike from the post lol
Probably over-thinking it
I'm not disagree with you I'm simple saying just like the carabiner it's side load numbers are less.
- Thread starter
- #109
I got a Halfords false crossbar today, it's way sturdier and well built than I imagined it would be and it looks to be a perfect solution. All I had to do was tip my Kiox display up a bit out of the way (I keep the bolt on that fairly loose anyway to help during a crash or knock), tuck the Kiox wires out of the way (I'll see if I can route them permanently so they don't get in the way) and that's it. It takes the weight of the bike with the battery in no problem.
Cheers to everyone who suggested it because it was £22 well spent and looks to be a very safe elegant solution. It even accidentally holds the handlebars perfectly straight too.
Cheers to everyone who suggested it because it was £22 well spent and looks to be a very safe elegant solution. It even accidentally holds the handlebars perfectly straight too.
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dthree
Active member
I would be nervous using the Saris bike beam or the Halfords crossbar as they have a 15kg/35lbs weight limit.
- Thread starter
- #111
I thought exactly the same which is why I went to get it half expecting to return it or have to modify it to strengthen it but the stated weight limit is way off, this thing is super sturdy, I expected the thin cheap steel tube that all cheap things seem to be made of nowadays but it's pretty thick tubing and feels very strong.
- Thread starter
- #112
The crossbar weighs just over 1.1kg to give you an idea, it's way heavier than it looks, I wouldn't want to be hit over the head with it that's for sure. Next time you are near a Halfords go have a look at one. My local Halfords for some reason didn't have any on display but had loads in the stock room.
dthree
Active member
I'll have to take your word for it as I'm over 5000 km from the closest Halfords
- Thread starter
- #114
I did the scientific “does it bend when I smash it against my knee test”. My knee hurt and the bar didn’t bend. Therefore the Saris cross bar was good enough.I'll have to take your word for it as I'm over 5000 km from the closest Halfords
As ripgroove said, this bar is a beast. There's absolutely zero bend or flex in it. It's well over engineered for the weight they recommend.
I bought one to try. £22 from Halfords and delivered free next day!!
I had to swing the Kiox 300 on my Whyte e160 RSX out of the way but no such problem on my E180 RS.
I think it is a better solution than my drop handlebars mod and I agree with the above comments about its strength.
I found the easiest way to use it was to fit it on the bike first, then just lift the bike into the clamp. Also note the 2 ends are not equal in size......the larger end is best fitted under the stem.
In terms of length it fits both my bikes with probably 10 to 15mm to spare (both are size large) so it may not fit some xl size bikes ??
It's only drawback is that you would not be able to remove stem or service the headset using this bar so I will keep my drop handlebars mod version if I need to do that.
I had to swing the Kiox 300 on my Whyte e160 RSX out of the way but no such problem on my E180 RS.
I think it is a better solution than my drop handlebars mod and I agree with the above comments about its strength.
I found the easiest way to use it was to fit it on the bike first, then just lift the bike into the clamp. Also note the 2 ends are not equal in size......the larger end is best fitted under the stem.
In terms of length it fits both my bikes with probably 10 to 15mm to spare (both are size large) so it may not fit some xl size bikes ??
It's only drawback is that you would not be able to remove stem or service the headset using this bar so I will keep my drop handlebars mod version if I need to do that.
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