Thanks for the monologue.Thanks for the discussion!
I also remove the battery and clamp the top tube of our alloy frame bikes on the balance point. If necessary also makes it easy to rotate the bike in the stand.I just clamp the top tube on my carbon frame. I remove the battery to save some weight. That cross bar thing looks good but what if you want to pull the front end apart?
Listening to a message, even when it’s a hard one, is a good life skill. Try it sometime?Thanks for the monologue.
See above.Listening to a message, even when it’s a hard one, is a good life skill. Try it sometime?
See above.
I can't see that saying that a monologue is a monologue can be insulting but if you take it that way ...I really don’t get this or a lot of other forums sometimes.
You’ve liked some of my posts in the past, I’ve probably liked some of yours, but you disagree with somebody over something stupid like whether it’s ok to hang a bike by it’s dropper, and all of a sudden you’re just being bloody rude with your monologue comments.
Back up what you wrote about droppers only being strong ‘from the top’, or stop discussing it and accept you might be wrong about something.
Honestly…
I can't see that saying that a monologue is a monologue can be insulting but if you take it that way ...
One reason I did not and will not engage is that if a bike is held horizontally then loads on clamped dropper posts are not vertical which would only open up yet another can of worms of subjectivity.
I completely agree with that. Made that mistake once with the AXS reverb dropper but it was a fairly easy fix. I fully extend the post now before I store my bike …in the stand or just sitting there overnight.Bike shop told me not to even lift bike by seat/post as it can suck air into oil.
I now use a Saris Bike Beam which is great and I would recommend itAlso curious about how others do it, some carbon frames are odd shapes like my Cube and I don't like the idea of winding a clamp down on a carbon tube anyway.
Bike shop told me not to even lift bike by seat/post as it can suck air into oil.
Physics says that hanging my heavy bike level from a dropper post that isn't at the centre mass of the bike is putting alot of stress on the internals of the post (I assume bushes), here:
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So which way is the recommended method?
A: Bike level, dropper post at an angle. (Easier to work on)
B: Dropper post level, bike at an angle. (Slighly less easier to work on)
C: Let the bike find it's own angle. (Even less easier to work on)
D: Don't be lazy, raise the dropper out of the frame a bit more and clamp the main body of it. (Potentially having the bike at any angle you want without stressing the dropper's internals but potentially stressing the frame where the dropper's body is mounted)(Not Pictured, too lazy )
E: None of the above (comment below)
Also curious about how others do it, some carbon frames are odd shapes like my Cube and I don't like the idea of winding a clamp down on a carbon tube anyway.
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Remarque : Je suis au courant de cette vidéo où ils estiment que seulement 27 Nm de force de rotation sont appliqués lors de l'accrochage d'un VTT normal avec un poids d'environ 30 lb que le compte-gouttes devrait très bien gérer. J'ai utilisé Chat GPT pour extrapoler leurs chiffres en supposant un vélo plus lourd de 53 lb et il compte un peu moins de 48 Nm de force à la place, si le compte-gouttes est d'accord avec cela, je ne le sais pas. Même ainsi, lorsque le vélo est serré, je jure que je peux voir la tige de selle télescopique se plier (probablement juste en voyant des choses, mais cela ne me semble pas juste)
Bonjour,je suspend toujours mes vélos a la tige de selle au plus bas et une sangle au plafond relié sous le cadre au niveau de la potence,ça le soulage un peu pluspression principalement verticale non inclinée ....... et si tout votre 90k était sur la selle, la roue avant serait incontrôlable
Sérieusement, ce que nous examinons en termes de forces avec une pince sur la tige de selle est au mieux une section de 200 mm serrée et les forces agissant dessus sont à la fois verticales et horizontales, ce qui donne un vecteur de probablement 60 degrés et qui n'a aucun rapport avec les forces appliquées lors de la conduite.
Si vous essayiez de plier la tige de selle télescopique qui est le vecteur de force que vous appliqueriez avec un long levier ......... c'est-à-dire dans ce cas plus que le centre avant de l'ensemble du vélo. vous n'irez nulle part en essayant de le plier en vous asseyant dessus !!
ohhhhhhh, you are sure? I'm at 5 months of battle with cube about that very point. top tube cracked on the sides. Warranty denied based on their certaianty I crushed the tube (I didn't).No but in that case you'd likely have both wheels off which would make things easier. I clamp by frame in that case. As long as you're careful I think it's incredibly unlikely you'd damage the frame.
Not when you have frame protection film.I alwsys Clamp it on the top tube. Done that on all my carbon bikes. No issues what so ever.
The dropper body is fine for me never had any problemsI use the dropper stanchion, but leave the front wheel on the ground. If I need to work on the front wheel, I drape the bike over the work stand top bar. The work stand top bar is at the top of the down tube, underneath the head tube. I am not averse to putting the bike upside down on the floor if I need to do some large torque work, like removing the cassette or any work on the BB.
If I was going to suspend the bike on the dropper, I would pull it out a bit and use the dropper body. But I know where the dropper cable is and can do what is required not to jam it up when reverting to normal (unlike my now closed LBS who bent the cable and ruined it!)
The top tube of a lot bikes in this thread simply isn't the right size or shape to clamp in a normal workstands clamp. And clamping carbon with with the amount of force needed to secure an ebike is most definitely not good for the carbon at all, it's not at all designed to be stressed that way. The inside will start delaminating and it will become much weaker, you won't see it because it'll be on the inside.Are you lot for real? Clamp it on the top tube- that way you can work on the dropper too.
If you’re worried about clamping carbon then you’re obviously over tightening it and I’d be more concerned that you’re capable of general bike maintenance in the first place.
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