Orbea Rise Issue

[Nebo1ss]

Hi all,

Ive had a Rise for less than a week, amazing bikes, lots of fun.
Issue is, the chain ring has snapped, so the fun has stopped.
its completley come off the crank, the inner part is still there, mounted to the crank and is still attached, and the whole outta peice has come off.

anyone else had this issue?

i wasnt pedalling particularly the mud, flat ground, and POP, the things just snaps striaght off.

im worried that as this is a new bike, and the chainring (from what i read) was especailly made for the bike, its might be a design fault, or if its just a manufactoring fault, its may take some time to get a replacement.

Contemplating taking the bike back.
Dont spend near enough 7k on a bike to have issue like this. Fully unridebale and not an easily accessible part. So far bike shop said they would get back to me today, and now they are saying they will get back to me tomorrow.
Fingers crossed they can get a replacement soon. Very frustating as its costs a small fortune, plus its was a 4hr walk home. Could have been a whole lot worse.
Ive asked for two more so i can have a backup if it happens again, and if it does, i can replace it on the trial then replace the bike when im home.

if anyone has any ideas, of has had this issue, please get in touch.

Thanks all!

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Contact e-thirteen directly. The Rep is sometimes on here and i have seen others with the same problem get results from E-thirteen.

 

[jim0905]

Hi all,

Ive had a Rise for less than a week, amazing bikes, lots of fun.
Issue is, the chain ring has snapped, so the fun has stopped.
its completley come off the crank, the inner part is still there, mounted to the crank and is still attached, and the whole outta peice has come off.

anyone else had this issue?

i wasnt pedalling particularly the mud, flat ground, and POP, the things just snaps striaght off.

im worried that as this is a new bike, and the chainring (from what i read) was especailly made for the bike, its might be a design fault, or if its just a manufactoring fault, its may take some time to get a replacement.

Contemplating taking the bike back.
Dont spend near enough 7k on a bike to have issue like this. Fully unridebale and not an easily accessible part. So far bike shop said they would get back to me today, and now they are saying they will get back to me tomorrow.
Fingers crossed they can get a replacement soon. Very frustating as its costs a small fortune, plus its was a 4hr walk home. Could have been a whole lot worse.
Ive asked for two more so i can have a backup if it happens again, and if it does, i can replace it on the trial then replace the bike when im home.

if anyone has any ideas, of has had this issue, please get in touch.

Thanks all!

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How did you get the lock ring undone without any chainring left?

 

[Nebo1ss]

Rothwild which used the same chainring has recalled all of their bikes and replacing it with the Shimano version. Perhaps its time Orbea does the same.

 

[mark.ai]

Rothwild which used the same chainring has recalled all of their bikes and replacing it with the Shimano version. Perhaps its time Orbea does the same.

Rotwild are recalling the cranks not the chainring - just the same as the cranks on the Rise being replaced. Unless there is another one too ...
https://www.rotwild.de/community-news/news-blog/single/news/voluntary-product-recall-re375-and-rx375/#:~:text=You can check if your ROTWILD bike is,e%2Aspec EP800 crank set from the manufacturer e%2Athirteen.

 

[Snowrydr01]

Early bath for me today.

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Hmm Looks like the standard manufacturer "To date, this is the only failure of this type we have seen on this model ring. " is a bit unrealistic if there are two on a small forum like this.

 

[jim0905]

Early bath for me today.

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Over 6 weeks since this happened and I'm still without a bike. Orbea can go f**k themselves

 

[Snowrydr01]

Over 6 weeks since this happened and I'm still without a bike. Orbea can go f**k themselves

Can you just source a new ring yourself? I know it's money out of your pocket but gets you moving again.

 

[MikeL_mtb]

How did you get the lock ring undone without any chainring left?

remove the crank arm, and use the opposite crank arm to hold it like normal? the lock ring is reverse thread just in case someone wasn't sure.

 

[jim0905]

Can you just source a new ring yourself? I know it's money out of your pocket but gets you moving again.

I got myself a new ring straight away while I waited to hear if it was covered by warranty. That arrived and I went to fit it but couldn't get the lock ring off. Took it to the LBS and he couldn't do it either so I sent it back to Tredz and they can't get it off. So now they're waiting for the distributor to get back to them which should've been last Monday. Spoke to Tredz today and they still haven't heard anything from the distributor

 

[jim0905]

remove the crank arm, and use the opposite crank arm to hold it like normal? the lock ring is reverse thread just in case someone wasn't sure.

Can't get it to budge

 

[volts]

My E13 got so worn out that the chain suck was very visible. About 1500km. Reading this, I'm pretty happy I switched to a shimano 34t and EM900 arms.

 

[e*thirteen Components]

Over 6 weeks since this happened and I'm still without a bike. Orbea can go f**k themselves

@jim0905 - Sorry to see about the trouble with the ring. File a warranty claim with us here and we can get a new one sent out right away.

https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038827791-Warranty-Request-Submission-Form

 

[MikeL_mtb]

Over 6 weeks since this happened and I'm still without a bike. Orbea can go f**k themselves

So you have a lockring tool like the LRT-2, and a 36mm wrench, and are turning in the clockwise direction, but it's still not coming loose? Mine was not very hard to break loose, a little heat can help, but I would use a heat gun or hair dryer, I'm not sure how close the electronics are too the case and you wouldn't want to melt anything. I do also plan to get a shimano spider, I believe with the spider you can also access the motor bolts with the chainring still on, I had to tighten mine which was the reason I took it off in the first place. The e13's biggest benefit its it's weight.

 

[jim0905]

So you have a lockring tool like the LRT-2, and a 36mm wrench, and are turning in the clockwise direction, but it's still not coming loose? Mine was not very hard to break loose, a little heat can help, but I would use a heat gun or hair dryer, I'm not sure how close the electronics are too the case and you wouldn't want to melt anything. I do also plan to get a shimano spider, I believe with the spider you can also access the motor bolts with the chainring still on, I had to tighten mine which was the reason I took it off in the first place. The e13's biggest benefit its it's weight.

Yeah at first I was turning the wrong way because turning the correct way was just turning the motor as well. Was a bit awkward on my own so took it to my lbs. We put an old crank arm on the non drive side with a short scaffold tube on. I was stood on that and the mechanic was managing to lift me and the bike off the floor. Tried heat on it but it just wouldn't move

 

[volts]

Yeah at first I was turning the wrong way because turning the correct way was just turning the motor as well. Was a bit awkward on my own so took it to my lbs. We put an old crank arm on the non drive side with a short scaffold tube on. I was stood on that and the mechanic was managing to lift me and the bike off the floor. Tried heat on it but it just wouldn't move

When you pull it off correctly you should be able to just sit on the wheel and pull upwards. No need to do anything with the crank? The crank part is for mounting the ring again. Are you sure you are pulling the correct way?? The tread is reverse, so not the normal way.

 

[jim0905]

When you pull it off correctly you should be able to just sit on the wheel and pull upwards. No need to do anything with the crank? The crank part is for mounting the ring again. Are you sure you are pulling the correct way?? The tread is reverse, so not the normal way.

You can do that if the whole drivetrain is still intact but in my case it isn't so turning clockwise just turns the motor

 

[volts]

You can do that if the whole drivetrain is still intact but in my case it isn't so turning clockwise just turns the motor

Yeah it's true, to do it alone it's easiest to have the rear wheel mounted and a chain between the ring and cassette.
But I think it's easier to do alone, since you won't be able to lift yourself up since you are the one holding the tool. I did it with a rather long breaker bar, sitting on the wheel to keep the motor from spinning.

 

[jim0905]

Yeah it's true, to do it alone it's easiest to have the rear wheel mounted and a chain between the ring and cassette.
But I think it's easier to do alone, since you won't be able to lift yourself up since you are the one holding the tool. I did it with a rather long breaker bar, sitting on the wheel to keep the motor from spinning.

This is the thing though mate, I haven't got a chainring attached, it's sheared off and I'm left with a little slither behind the lock ring

 

[volts]

This is the thing though mate, I haven't got a chainring attached, it's sheared off and I'm left with a little slither behind the lock ring
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Hah ok ok I see the problem. Damn.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Take the front and rear wheels and the chain off. Leave both cranks the bike/motor. Place the bike on a moving pad or blanket so that the fork and motor are sitting on the floor. Put a piece of PVC pipe on the non-drive side crank so it jams into the floor. Then use the park tool chainring tool, and a breaker bar to turn the lock nut counter clockwise. The crank arms should jam into the floor and give you something to push against. You may need to put flat pedals on the bike, so that you can stand on the other side.

If for whatever reason, you cannot get enough torque to get it to budge, you need to do 1 of 3 things:
#1) use an impact gun and the 36mm socket on the park tool to provide some shock force to break the threads free
#2) same as above, but use a deadblow hammer and hit the breaker bar that has the 36mm socket, and the park tool adapter so that you are again, providing shock force to the threads to break the bond
#3) use a blowtorch to heat the lockring and then do one of the above.

 

[jim0905]

Take the front and rear wheels and the chain off. Leave both cranks the bike/motor. Place the bike on a moving pad or blanket so that the fork and motor are sitting on the floor. Put a piece of PVC pipe on the non-drive side crank so it jams into the floor. Then use the park tool chainring tool, and a breaker bar to turn the lock nut counter clockwise. The crank arms should jam into the floor and give you something to push against. You may need to put flat pedals on the bike, so that you can stand on the other side.

If for whatever reason, you cannot get enough torque to get it to budge, you need to do 1 of 3 things:
#1) use an impact gun and the 36mm socket on the park tool to provide some shock force to break the threads free
#2) same as above, but use a deadblow hammer and hit the breaker bar that has the 36mm socket, and the park tool adapter so that you are again, providing shock force to the threads to break the bond
#3) use a blowtorch to heat the lockring and then do one of the above.

Appreciate the tips mate but the bikes been back at Tredz 4 weeks. They couldn't get it off and I'm now waiting on the distributor/Orbea to sort it

 

[RickBullotta]

I won't be buying any e*thirteen products, ever.

 

[MikeL_mtb]

Yeah at first I was turning the wrong way because turning the correct way was just turning the motor as well. Was a bit awkward on my own so took it to my lbs. We put an old crank arm on the non drive side with a short scaffold tube on. I was stood on that and the mechanic was managing to lift me and the bike off the floor. Tried heat on it but it just wouldn't move

That's impressive, hope they get it sorted out.

 

[volts]

I won't be buying any e*thirteen products, ever.

I think they make decent wheels and good chain guards. I haven't had luck with they cranks, cassettes or seatposts.
I think it's a bit of a mixed bag.
The cassette for example was a great idea (9-46) but it just shifted so badly I didn't want to use it. Their dropper lever is the best I have ever tried, but their dropper seatpost sucked. I rode their wheels a fair bit and never had problems but friends of mine had spokes snap all the time.

I wouldn't say I'd never buy their stuff again, but I'll be sure to read some long term reviews before getting anything.

 

[b33k34]

Has anyone bought a replacement E13 chainring (or can suggest alternatives) - for purchase in UK please. I was surprised it wasn't one of the parts listed on the Orbea site (though I'm still waiting for spares from them that were supposedly in stock when ordered in early February)

 

[jim0905]

Has anyone bought a replacement E13 chainring (or can suggest alternatives) - for purchase in UK please. I was surprised it wasn't one of the parts listed on the Orbea site (though I'm still waiting for spares from them that were supposedly in stock when ordered in early February)

I couldn't find one anywhere and ended up buying from BikeInn but looks like they don't have any 32t now

 

[mark.ai]

Has anyone bought a replacement E13 chainring (or can suggest alternatives) - for purchase in UK please. I was surprised it wasn't one of the parts listed on the Orbea site (though I'm still waiting for spares from them that were supposedly in stock when ordered in early February)

I bought one direct from the E13 website - but looks like the 32T is out of stock currently (34T and 36T are in stock): e*spec Direct Mount Chainring - Aluminum (ethirteen.eu)

 

[b33k34]

I could be wrong but isn't there a clearance issue with larger or smaller chainrings on the Rise?

 

[jim0905]

............and another week goes by

 

[volts]

I could be wrong but isn't there a clearance issue with larger or smaller chainrings on the Rise?

If you want to run the chain guide that comes the with bike, and choose eg. 34t shimano ring, there is a problem. If you unmount the chain guide, there is no problem.
Source: I mounted a 34t Shimano ring.