Rockyw
Member
LBS tightened and greased the headset, clicking now gone.
Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread
- Thread starter Basy
- Start date
Flogbox
Member
Hey, look! It's "No_Idea" from PF!!
Flogbox, you will be pleased to know I made a decision, and as much as I love the green version, I reckon you were right about the black one. Especially when I also have one of these same coloured things at home already ...
Hahaha hey man
Nice Giant!
The black/gold in the flesh doesn't require a thought process to determine if you like it or not.
You will be glad you went with the Merida, i've started riding it to the gym instead of taking the M5 LOL.
Maximage
Member
I actually really liked the green ... at the moment ... but I think it will look old and dated very quickly. The black looks way better in the flesh than the stock photos, and it was your PF photos that made me seriously consider it over the green. The Large has now landed at the bike shop so hopefully they put it on to charge over night so they can finish setting it up tomorrow.
Levo Lution
New Member
Let me ask you merida fans, do merida ebikes have 'walk assist' mode like levos from Specialized? I could not find this info on merida website. Thank for the answer.
The Shimano walk assist is pretty good. Seems I'm not able to link directly to the part about walk assist. It starts at 5:13.
Levo Lution
New Member
Happy with the answer? I was about to buy levo 2019 as I have specialized regular mtb, but it looks like levos (old and new) have problem with dirt getting into the motor area (which means higher maintenance)... Do meridas have such problem? I do not want to spend more time cleaning my bike than riding it...
D
Deleted member 1478
Guest
Just checked my pivot bolts 4 rides in. Yikes, some were very loose.
Also, took me a while to realise they were Torx - didn't have much luck at my initial tightening attempts with the allen key torque wrench - particularly on the 17Nm main pivot. Worked a lot better with the Torx keys.
Will have to invest in a set of Torx heads for my torque spanner. All a bit approximate in the meantime.
Also, took me a while to realise they were Torx - didn't have much luck at my initial tightening attempts with the allen key torque wrench - particularly on the 17Nm main pivot.
Worked a lot better with the Torx keys. Will have to invest in a set of Torx heads for my torque spanner. All a bit approximate in the meantime.
Last edited by a moderator:
Rallysaloon
Member
To minimise damage to shifters, dropper post lever etc mounted on top of the bars in a crash fit a pair of these:
MOUNTAIN BIKE SHIFTER SAVERS | eBay.
MOUNTAIN BIKE SHIFTER SAVERS | eBay.
Rallysaloon
Member
"Scene tax much?" - Not sure what you're saying there
I think you need to highlight the fact you make and are marketing this products - most of your posts don't make this clear - might be an idea to ask @Rob Hancill to register as a supplier or such, you will notice that other members on here who are selling stuff or represent shops/brands have this listed under their user name.
Scene tax is a "tax" applied to an item because of the perceived market. VW Transporters are a good example of scene tax.
IMO, 25 quid is far too expensive for an item so simple.
Also;
That's a bit naughty and would get you perma-banned from some forums I use.
Rallysaloon
Member
Thanks for the info on selling stuff. I didn’t really see myself as a business as I just make things in my spare time for anybody who wants them. I’ll send a message to the chap mentioned to see how I can sell my items without getting banned.
As for £25 being too expensive, for a pair of aircraft grade, hand made anodised aluminium parts I don’t see them as too expensive. I purchase hundreds of bespoke machined items in my regular job so have a very good idea how much things cost. If you are an engineering company perhaps you should send me details, I may be able to pass work your way. I couldn’t even buy them made in China for any less than they cost me!
As for £25 being too expensive, for a pair of aircraft grade, hand made anodised aluminium parts I don’t see them as too expensive. I purchase hundreds of bespoke machined items in my regular job so have a very good idea how much things cost. If you are an engineering company perhaps you should send me details, I may be able to pass work your way. I couldn’t even buy them made in China for any less than they cost me!
Agree - nylon going to transmit less force in a crash
Rallysaloon
Member
Technically speaking it's 6061 T6 aluminium, some people just refer to it as aircraft aluminium grade. I'm not going into boring folk to death about grades of aluminium but the 6061 I use is rated as one of the best for anodising.
Making them from aluminium was personal preference as I like the look and quality feel of them. Nylon was, and still could be an option but it's too easy to strip the M4 threads as it's very soft. From a production point, there's the same amount of work so the price is still going to be similar. A mould could be made to make them from plastic but the expense of that is too much unless I could sell loads.
Hi everyone, very pleased that I stumbled across this thread, which offers a wealth of information. I'm a recent e160 900 adopter and absolutely love it! Changes I've made so far are:
- 170mm air shaft in the Lyriks
- Ergon Grips
- 150mm KS LEV dropper
- Fabric Scoop seat
- Maxxis Assegai on the back (in 2.5)
Observations:
The kind of riding I do is what I call "e-shuttling"; my passion is descending and therefore I got the ebike to smash out more runs than I was currently capable of. I really like the way it descends, but was initially a bit shocked at battery life when climbing really steep hills in trail and boost mode. I purchased an additional battery after a couple of rides. I've figured out that one battery will do about 1500m vertical on steep, constant climbs that mostly aren't possible in eco mode. So 3000m vertical in one ride with the 2 batteries is pretty descent and gets me more than twice as many runs as I'm capable of on my Norco Range. On the Range, I'm usually pretty spent after about 1000m vertical.
I've read that it's not good to store the batteries below 20% charge or above 90%, but I'm not sure what timeframe that's over. I usually ride twice a week, so hopefully it's OK to leave the batteries fully charged for a few days. I find it a bit challenging to try and charge both batteries to 90% and then up to 100% on the morning of the ride day. This requires keeping an eye on them and not being able to spontaneously take off for a ride at any time with full battery capacity.
I've already had to rebuild the rear wheel as I slashed the rear tyre in a rock garden and dented the rim really badly. I was able to bend the dings out, but due to multiple flat spots in the rim bed was unable to run tubeless. I feel that with the weight of the bike and aggressive riding it really needs a full DH casing tyre on the rear, so hopefully the Assegai is up to the task. I wanted a 2.6 Minion DHR2, but they don't make these in DH casing. I don't think the Alex Rims that came on the bike are all that strong, eventually I'll go to 40mm LB or Nextie carbon rims, which have never failed me on other bikes. I'm not running stupidly low pressures, but I don't like the feel of the bike when the rear wheel is rock solid. My ideal combo is 25 rear / 19 front.
Strava is a bit of an issue for me; I don't want to select "ebike ride" as I'll miss out on my DH segments, but the problem is that I'm picking up unwanted KOMs on all the climbs, which will (righfully) get flagged. I got some KOMs on descents recently and really wanted to keep the rides so ended up cropping them, which wasn't ideal.
I really like the Lyriks with 2 tokens, but am a little scared to try any decent sized drops with the Super Deluxe, even with the max of 3 tokens. I've heard that there is some other brand of token that takes even more volume (Gnar Dog?) which might be worth a try. Would probably prefer an X2, which is what I have on my other bike. Has anyone attempted an 8ft drop to a flattish landing on the 900? I only weigh 75kg, so it will probably be OK, it's just that first attempt...
In terms of sizing, at 5'11" I actually preferred a medium. Usually I always ride a large frame, but I found when I tested a large the extra weight made it really sluggish and I couldn't throw it around as much. The medium feels amazing and is so much more nimble that I expected a 22kg bike to feel. Even jumps really well!
- 170mm air shaft in the Lyriks
- Ergon Grips
- 150mm KS LEV dropper
- Fabric Scoop seat
- Maxxis Assegai on the back (in 2.5)
Observations:
The kind of riding I do is what I call "e-shuttling"; my passion is descending and therefore I got the ebike to smash out more runs than I was currently capable of. I really like the way it descends, but was initially a bit shocked at battery life when climbing really steep hills in trail and boost mode. I purchased an additional battery after a couple of rides. I've figured out that one battery will do about 1500m vertical on steep, constant climbs that mostly aren't possible in eco mode. So 3000m vertical in one ride with the 2 batteries is pretty descent and gets me more than twice as many runs as I'm capable of on my Norco Range. On the Range, I'm usually pretty spent after about 1000m vertical.
I've read that it's not good to store the batteries below 20% charge or above 90%, but I'm not sure what timeframe that's over. I usually ride twice a week, so hopefully it's OK to leave the batteries fully charged for a few days. I find it a bit challenging to try and charge both batteries to 90% and then up to 100% on the morning of the ride day. This requires keeping an eye on them and not being able to spontaneously take off for a ride at any time with full battery capacity.
I've already had to rebuild the rear wheel as I slashed the rear tyre in a rock garden and dented the rim really badly. I was able to bend the dings out, but due to multiple flat spots in the rim bed was unable to run tubeless. I feel that with the weight of the bike and aggressive riding it really needs a full DH casing tyre on the rear, so hopefully the Assegai is up to the task. I wanted a 2.6 Minion DHR2, but they don't make these in DH casing. I don't think the Alex Rims that came on the bike are all that strong, eventually I'll go to 40mm LB or Nextie carbon rims, which have never failed me on other bikes. I'm not running stupidly low pressures, but I don't like the feel of the bike when the rear wheel is rock solid. My ideal combo is 25 rear / 19 front.
Strava is a bit of an issue for me; I don't want to select "ebike ride" as I'll miss out on my DH segments, but the problem is that I'm picking up unwanted KOMs on all the climbs, which will (righfully) get flagged. I got some KOMs on descents recently and really wanted to keep the rides so ended up cropping them, which wasn't ideal.
I really like the Lyriks with 2 tokens, but am a little scared to try any decent sized drops with the Super Deluxe, even with the max of 3 tokens. I've heard that there is some other brand of token that takes even more volume (Gnar Dog?) which might be worth a try. Would probably prefer an X2, which is what I have on my other bike. Has anyone attempted an 8ft drop to a flattish landing on the 900? I only weigh 75kg, so it will probably be OK, it's just that first attempt...
In terms of sizing, at 5'11" I actually preferred a medium. Usually I always ride a large frame, but I found when I tested a large the extra weight made it really sluggish and I couldn't throw it around as much. The medium feels amazing and is so much more nimble that I expected a 22kg bike to feel. Even jumps really well!
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Rallysaloon
Member
Sounds like, with the sort of riding you do, one of my motor/chainring heavy duty bash guards would be a good idea. Message me for details if you haven’t already seen them ?
drjarvis2003
Well-known member
A lot of us are running Magic Mary 2.6DH and i also have Vittoria air liner inserts in them too. Tried running without and i could hear the rims being dinged. Im 65kg.
Only downside with them is they do tend to drag, but for the Steep wet and tech trail we do, they are great.
I also had to get a second battery and it works out really well, as we can easily go back to the van for lunch and a battery swap.
As for the shock, Vorsprung do a revalve kit for around 200 pounds Uk.
You have a couple of options on Strava, you can hide your whole run and still see all your segments, or you can hide all the uphill sections and just show the downhill bits.
Only downside with them is they do tend to drag, but for the Steep wet and tech trail we do, they are great.
I also had to get a second battery and it works out really well, as we can easily go back to the van for lunch and a battery swap.
As for the shock, Vorsprung do a revalve kit for around 200 pounds Uk.
You have a couple of options on Strava, you can hide your whole run and still see all your segments, or you can hide all the uphill sections and just show the downhill bits.
I saw that and I liked it! I've already managed to bend the flimsy plastic casing on the front of the motor.
I've used Marys on other bikes and really rate them. A 2.6 up front with the Assegai on the back would be superb.
How do you hide the uphill parts of a ride on Strava?
drjarvis2003
Well-known member
I have to do it on my desktop for some reason.
If you hover your mouse pointer over each segment, it will give you the option to hide on the right hand side.
Not sure it takes me off the leaderboards though. I don't want to make the rides private as I want to be on the DH leaderboards.
drjarvis2003
Well-known member
All the segments that you hide, will not appear on the leaderboard.
- Thread starter
- #237
Nice write up. Where abouts do you ride? I'm from Melbourne too and this is the exact reason I bought one too.. for descending! YEEEOOWW!
Current favourites are:
- Mt Macedon (so loamy!)
- Channel 10 DH and jumps park at the bottom (definitely need a DH tyre on the rear for this - this is where I trashed my wheel!)
- Red Hill (Eaton's Cutting - been too scared to hit the 8ft step-down at the bottom on the Merida yet)
- Harcourt (love the jumps track and that black diamond one right up the top with the techy drops)
- Narebethong
- Silvan (Bottlecaps, JJs and other newish gravity trails)
Would also like to take it up to Mt Beauty, Bright and Buller. Sadly it won't be coming with me to NZ and Tassie next month due to the flying with batteries limitation... Might be worth buying a spare battery and keeping it in NZ, but the problem is that my brother who lives over there would refuse to ride with me if I was on the ebike...
Just loving how I can smash out so many runs on all of the above tracks. Did 10 runs at Red Hill a couple of days ago all on the one battery, if I'd had time I could have done another 10 on the spare battery I had in the car. C10 is always a horrendous climb that takes about an hour, I managed 3 runs on one battery there and was getting to the top in about 10 mins! It's about 600m vertical.
I use a cheap timer outlet to control the charge of the battery after rides. For example, when it’s down to one bar I know 2,5hrs charge will get it to 80-90% and the night before the ride I just top it off.
I don’t know how much (if any) this method saves on degradation, after 24 and 28 charge cycles both of my batteries have 99% capacity. I would be interested to compare it with others.
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- Thread starter
- #240
Macedonia is awesome. I was going tomorrow but not after all this rain. I haven't taken the ebike out there yet (only shuttles with dickhole Moorey). I think you'd know him from RB which is where you're from I assume (I recognise the username).
Harcourt should be renamed to ebike city. I wouldn't ride that place without an ebike as there's not much reward for the climbing and pedalling over there.
I haven't been to Red Hill or ch10 yet. I'll get out there this season I think.
NARBY! Surely you're not riding to the top of Narby on your e160??! I was out there with Boomking the weekend before VDHS. Great place for shuttles but not many fun features or jumps.
Haven't been to Silvan yet either. I need to hit up Koper so he can show me around.
Maydena might have batteries to hire by then. I already asked them. I think you can hire them from somewhere in town too but can't remember who told me (or where). Can't wait to get back down there to try out their new trails. Missus won't let me risk it all like Ezkaton did to move down there. Winter would be pretty shit though.. but so is Melbourne.
Shoot me a PM next time you're thinking about heading out east (c10, silvan etc). I'd like a tour if you don't mind a tag along.
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