My Emtb life ( Ongoing Blog ): Current bike: Haibike Sduro Hardseven 2.5

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Pulleys and gloves.
IMG_20220718_112554.jpg
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Haibike dealer been in touch and now has the freehub available to collect for £36
Do i collect this seeing as I've already fixed the damaged freehub with new pawls and also now have a totally new wheelset ?

Keeping in mind that this is the same dealer i purchased the bike from that still hasn't got back to be regarding the exploded axle in which i had to fork out to replace myself...
So do i return the favour and just ignore collecting the part or collect it as a spare for future ?
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
dont bother say it is a heap of shit and you dont want it but if you have warranty why is he charging you anyway ?

my bars are 800mm
i dont think Hubs are covered in any warranty ?
I gave up on any warranty way back as ive swapped out 98% oem parts on the bike now ( mentioned in this thread previously) as i couldn't even get a failed thru-axel replaced from Haibike or dealer in question.
The dealer just failed to get back to me as promised, Now he has contacted me regarding the freehub but ive already fixed the existing from parts ordered, delivered and fitted from china mail lol before Dealer contact.

so my options are to ignore and forget about the part ( like he did when i needed a thru-axle replacement ) or to purchase the part as a spare for my spare wheelset in future


I think 800 is way to broad for me mate, i already clipping trees at 740
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
All fitted and bedded in now so will update on a few things:

Rotors - Massive difference and fixes my bite point issues with the magura mt5's. Obviously my previous rotors ( even though new ) rotors are thinner and was giving the lack of bite point i was used to, the Magura rotors are 2mm thick so pushing them pistons back in a bit results in sharper bite point which i prefer.

DMR defy 35 - Beautiful stem and much needed low stack profile for the steerer tube that was cut a tad short. The defy 35 along with new headset ( i will go into that next !! ) has transformed my front end immensely.

Brand X headset - Was running ballbearing so needed to move to sealed bearings and got a deal on the BX headset, So.... bottom bearing fitted fine into existing cup but had issues !
The actual sealed bearing did not slide fully down onto the crown race so pretty much useless and had to hunt the ballbearing out of the bin to service and re-fit .
Onto the top cup.... like everything it was not plain sailing lol, the sealed bearing didn't fit the existing cup so had to go to war getting the cup removed, After some very choice words and heavy handed tactics i got it out and then the rest was bliss. The sealed bearing fitted, compression ring slotted in perfectly with the top cap sitting nice and low for the Defy 35 to slide on sweetly now giving me about 4mm extra clearance so popped a 5mm spacer below the stem to give an extra reach rise.
The way i had modified my headset for the steerer tube length shortage must have been giving a slight drag because now my front end is butterly smooth and such an improvement.

For now im ok with ballbearing bottom and sealed top but will look into it more later.

My other new toy ( GoPro Max ) is absolutely insane. Still getting familiar with the editing and settings etc but what a difference
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Odd, I never think about sharing from GoPro, would save a lot of hastle
Yeah noticed @BAMBAMODA sharing via GoPro and finally figured out how lol. I won't use it as a main as my kids and family watch my YouTube but at least I can include my non kid / family friendly rants / Audio if needed on a GoPro upload now
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
well its there in 4k if thats what you were testing?
Can't seem to get the thumbnail to work on here lol. Having loads of issues with images on the web forum. I used to just use Tapatalk to do everything but the new servers are not compatible with Tapatalk so can't use TT anymore for EMTB.
 

Cratterbury

New Member
Oct 5, 2022
7
4
Wales
Hey @Slymobi , did you manage to get the cranks off ok after and is it an easy process? And any special tools required?

I have a Hardnine 7 but has the same motor and so same cranks etc as yours (square tapered bracket) and for some reason, when I washed the bike thoroughly one day, my crank arms developed a creak when standing or pushing down hard. Tried everything and people telling me it was the seat post, seat/saddle, pedals, everything you can think of. Even went to a bike shop to be looked at and they couldn’t do anything.
One day I sprayed some Muc Off lubricant on the bracket/crank where they attach. Lo and behold, no more creaks!!

So I’m wondering if I can take the cranks off, clean it all and then grease the hell out of them as I imagine it’s something like that!?
I washed it again the other day and now I have a slight creak again! It’s only done 200 miles and owned it less than a month, but the shop I purchased from is 2 hour drive away and I don’t drive haha!

I have a bottom bracket tool that I used to remove my old bike’s powerspline bracket and I replaced it with a threaded SRAM bracket. But I have no idea about these. Also noticed the big nut which is going to need some kind of wrench or adjustable spanner to undo?

Thanks 😊
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Hey @Slymobi , did you manage to get the cranks off ok after and is it an easy process? And any special tools required?

I have a Hardnine 7 but has the same motor and so same cranks etc as yours (square tapered bracket) and for some reason, when I washed the bike thoroughly one day, my crank arms developed a creak when standing or pushing down hard. Tried everything and people telling me it was the seat post, seat/saddle, pedals, everything you can think of. Even went to a bike shop to be looked at and they couldn’t do anything.
One day I sprayed some Muc Off lubricant on the bracket/crank where they attach. Lo and behold, no more creaks!!

So I’m wondering if I can take the cranks off, clean it all and then grease the hell out of them as I imagine it’s something like that!?
I washed it again the other day and now I have a slight creak again! It’s only done 200 miles and owned it less than a month, but the shop I purchased from is 2 hour drive away and I don’t drive haha!

I have a bottom bracket tool that I used to remove my old bike’s powerspline bracket and I replaced it with a threaded SRAM bracket. But I have no idea about these. Also noticed the big nut which is going to need some kind of wrench or adjustable spanner to undo?

Thanks
Hi, Yes you can remove the crank. I had to put a bit of effort into the initial removal using a crank extractor but once loose the arms will just slide off, as for the lock nut I didn't have a tool that size so I had to use a large wrench grip to undo ( REMEMBER ITS REVERSE THREAD ).
The BB is integrated into the motor so I've never messed with it tbh.
The chainring was on super tight but eventually managed to wiggle it free to then fit a new chainring ( kmc Bosch gen 4 direct mount ) but be cautious as I have heard that it didn't fit onto another exact same bike as mine !! Yet it fits perfectly on mine.
It's unclear why a Bosch chainring is fitting onto my Yamaha motor and I was unable to source the original Miranda chainring. I've used 2 of the KMC chainrings now without issue.

Once all off, yep give a good bath in grease lol, the chainring will have a sealing washer between the motor bearing and itself so remember to give that a clean and grease behind it too.

Good luck
 

Cratterbury

New Member
Oct 5, 2022
7
4
Wales
Hi, Yes you can remove the crank. I had to put a bit of effort into the initial removal using a crank extractor but once loose the arms will just slide off, as for the lock nut I didn't have a tool that size so I had to use a large wrench grip to undo ( REMEMBER ITS REVERSE THREAD ).
The BB is integrated into the motor so I've never messed with it tbh.
The chainring was on super tight but eventually managed to wiggle it free to then fit a new chainring ( kmc Bosch gen 4 direct mount ) but be cautious as I have heard that it didn't fit onto another exact same bike as mine !! Yet it fits perfectly on mine.
It's unclear why a Bosch chainring is fitting onto my Yamaha motor and I was unable to source the original Miranda chainring. I've used 2 of the KMC chainrings now without issue.

Once all off, yep give a good bath in grease lol, the chainring will have a sealing washer between the motor bearing and itself so remember to give that a clean and grease behind it too.

Good luck
That’s great, thank you for the reply!!
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Hope you find the creak culprit. I've had an annoying creaking once which came and went after trying various things etc but always returned !! In the end it was clear that it was the rear hub pawls slowly giving up, eventually I replaced the hub ( full wheel infact but that was personal choice ) and the creak has totally gone.
Also... I had a hidden rattle which turned out to be the brake pad retaining clip that was rattling lol.

Very frustrating identifying them annoyances but so good when you do.
 

Cratterbury

New Member
Oct 5, 2022
7
4
Wales
Bike lights have been a nemesis so thought I would try something different and stick a torch on the bars instead lol...

Better than any previous lights I've had and in all honesty it's pretty good. The video footage doesn't really pick up the full spectrum of view I get from this light and it's definitely not the best you can get but for £15 it will do me just fine for the minimal use it will get.

I bought this recently for less than £19. Very impressed with it so far!

Nestling® 5000Lm Bike Light Set https://amzn.eu/d/59LcEQO

Don’t use the rear light included- terrible but they just throw it in a sweeten the deal I think, but the front light is really good!

 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
2 x New Beaded Magic Mary's - I've fitted these onto the Miche rims and transferred the Hans Dampf's onto the Octane one rims....
Dilemma! Do I
A: Save the brand new scary Mary's for better weather and switch wheel sets to use the HD's ( still a good bit of life left but are slightly worn in now ) on an older chainset (36T cassette with good chain still )
B: Stick with the new MM's on current wheelset with brand new chainset ( 38T and new chain )
C: Mix of the above i.e MM front HD back or vice versa ?

I don't want to be switching the cassettes over to the others wheelset etc but just curious as to what peeps recommend in the wet sloppy weather we are now due ( UK obviously lol ).
TIA.
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
So after various rides in my usual terrains I can conclude ( imo ) that the Magic Mary's ( beaded bike park version ) are definitely not my ideal tyre. I know I'm not hitting bike parks but felt they would at least be half decent for the rides I do
Heavy, very slow rolling and feel extremely flexible in corners. The grip is mediocre for my riding but I do feel like they stop me on hard braking a bit better than previous tyres I've had.
Might one day purchase a new MM that's more adequate for my riding but I've asked Santa very nicely for a new set of the Hans Dampf's again along with a second set of Tannus .
 

Slymobi

E*POWAH Master
Mar 13, 2021
976
2,500
UK, Derbyshire
Upgrade day: Rockshox 35's Gold RL 150mm Travel.

Bonus: My Bottom sealed bearing now fits perfectly so bye bye cage bearing lol.

PITA: The brake calipers, as these forks didn't need the 180mm adapter as they are 180's minimum but current bolts were then too long, luckily Magura supplied spare shorter bolts when I bought the MT5's so eventually after finding them I was able to direct fit.

Future: Getting used to the changes, I have ( like previous Judy upgrade ) gone for the 29er fork to give me more up front, possibility to go mullet if desired and clearance from tyre to Arch.
I have also increased the travel by 30mm with the 150mm travel option, so will I notice a massive geo difference or put the frame under danger !! Not sure but it's not like I'm hitting massive jumps so hoping it's just a matter of adapting to the new setup within myself.

Pre test Pro's: I already love the increased damper adjustment options with more rebound and compression settings.
Feels like a slight increased and comfortable reach height in that I feel more upright which will benefit my back.
The price I got them for was really good ( 2nd hand albeit but still a steal ).

Pre test Con: Just the 1 for now and it's the same as I had with the Judy... Steerer is 173mm which leaves me with a slammed stem and no options to raise my bars which is another reason for going with the 29er and 150mm travel.
 

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