My Dengfu E10 CHEEB build with M600 motor

[Sheff73]

My E10 build. Sorry it won’t be as detailed as some on here, due to the fact I have bought parts new, second hand or I had the parts lying around in the first place.

Basic setup:-

• Large frame – unpainted.
• M600 motor.
• Mullet setup.
• Home built 52V 620Wh 14S 4P 12Ah Samsung 30Q cells + BMS battery pack. Fitted with Amass XT60 charging socket and XT90 battery connection.

More details:-

• Raw carbon large frame with custom decals and switch / charging sockets removed / blanked.
• X-Fusion 36 Trace 170mm fork with bolt-on RSP ProGuard (standard) mudguard.
• X-Fusion Vector HLR coil shock 210mm x 55mm.
• Nuke Proof 600lb x 2.8 light steel spring.

• Snail 34T 104mm BCD chain ring.
• XT 11-Speed Shifter + mech.
• KMC X11EL gold chain.
• ZITTO CG-08 chain device.

• SRAM G2 RSC brakes with 203mm rotors.

• RSP Trail 35mm stem.
• USE Ultimate 31,8mm Nail 780mm x 20mm rise carbon bars.
• Rockshox Reverb 150mm seat post.
• DMR V12 mag pedals.
• Madison Flux saddle.
• DMR Death grips in Gum, thick.
• Dengfu seat clamp + headset.

• Hope Pro4 hubs.
• DT Swiss EX511 rims 29" front, 27.5" rear.
• DT Swiss Competition spokes.
• DT Swiss Pro Lock alloy 15mm nipples + PHR washers.
• Maxxis 29" Assegai 2.5"WT 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR.
• Maxxis 27.5" Minion DHR 2.6"WT 3C Maxx Terra EXO+ rear tyre.
• Hope Torque Caps.

• Custom made from Kydex, a rear mud guard, bash guard and battery covers.
• Custom made aluminium channel to hold battery into frame with hook and loop strap.
• Custom spare mech hanger storage inside front shock mount area.

Weight 24.3kg all in.


Any questions regarding the build, then please fire away.

 

[Sunburntwily]

Some nice innovations there. Like the bash guard and foam around the brake/gear cables. I really like the spare parts bit, very handy.

 

[Sheff73]

Thanks Sunburntwily.

I looked at previous builds / comments and have tried to incorporate as many ‘improvements’ as possible.

The space under the front shock mount is ideal for storing a spare mech hanger. It’s a bit of a faff to get to once the battery / cable retainer is in place, but how many times do you ever need to replace a hanger? Having it stored on the bike also guarantees you don’t leave home without!

For anyone fitting / making a rear mud guard – make sure its long enough at the bottom end, WHEN THE SUSPENSION IS COMPRESSED – no need to ask me why this is the Mk2 version of my guard!

I’ve tried to block as many ‘gaps’ on the frame to stop water ingestion, from fitting a ‘cover’ into the space above the motor, to a simple piece of inner tube over the seat post clamp. The cable entries at the head tube are also worthy of attention. Any electrical signal connections have also been given the ACF50 treatment (including the circuits in the control unit). British winters are not kind to bikes, especially ones with electrics!!!!

 

[thaeber]

You ride a 600 lbs coil spring - may I ask Your weight?

 

[Sheff73]

Hi thaeber.
I'm around 83kg with pack. To be honest I could do with a 650lb, but I can't get Nuke Proof springs any higher rated than 600lb.
I also think an air shock would have been a better choice for this frame, as the mid to end-stroke support just isn't there with a coil (as expected...). The coil was cheap though, so I couldn't resist temptation!
I did manage to improve the feel of the coil by adding more pressure to the reservoir and reducing its volume, but its not perfect...

 

[Kiwin]

Very nice ! I'm happy to see posts with many details !!
Can you explain How did you make the frame chain protection ?
And the seat post water protection ? is that heat-shrink sleeve ?

 

[thaeber]

Hi thaeber.
I'm around 83kg with pack. To be honest I could do with a 650lb, but I can't get Nuke Proof springs any higher rated than 600lb.
I also think an air shock would have been a better choice for this frame, as the mid to end-stroke support just isn't there with a coil (as expected...). The coil was cheap though, so I couldn't resist temptation!
I did manage to improve the feel of the coil by adding more pressure to the reservoir and reducing its volume, but its not perfect...

Thats very interesting to see how different we like the suspension tune on our bikes, thanks for the details! I‘m 95 kg dresses with backpack, and I tried the bike with (both 216 x 63 shock / 170 mm travel) RS Vivid Air and Cane Creek DB Coil CS shock. I found the RS very good, sitting a little deeper in the travel, but very supple in mid stroke with good progression at end of stroke. The Cane Creek is a coil shock, more linear but even more sensitive on the small stuff. I started with a 550 lbs spring - too firm. Then a 500 lbs spring - better. Finally I bought a progressive spring from Cane Creek, 450 - 550 lbs. This is perfect for me, very sensitive, 30+ percent SAG, but due to the progressive rate not bottoming out too often. Very nice super plush feeling.

 

[Sheff73]

Hi Kiwin. The chain stay protection is made by sticking a layer or 3M Scotch 2228 rubber mastic tape on the upper surface of the chain stay (including up towards the pivot point), followed by a length of old inner tube. Bit of WD40 sprayed inside the inner tube and then quickly slip it over the chain stay. You obviously need to disassemble the pivot point at the rear to fit, but its no big deal.

Same inner tube used to slip over the top of the seat tube / seat clamp. I sprayed some ACF50 over the seat clamp before adding the inner tube to keep things water tight and protected.

thaeber - I think the Nuke Proof springs are 'under rated' as they seem 'soft' compared to say a Fox spring. I'm running just over 25% sag with the 600lb spring and it blows through the travel quite easily..
Didn't realise Cane Creek made progressive springs - will definitely be looking closely at those. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[Paolo Esquire]

Exceptional build. As you say, you’re really taking advantage of the frame space. Bike also truly looks fab. I am think of building similar and going relatively budget. Hoping 3.5K. I built my first 2 Ebikes this spring (both BBSHD hard tails but I use them for commuting/light trails. Amazing power but ltd in trail capability. I’ve been search for a modern geo DIY Ebike frame which is truly trail ready and just found this E10.

May I ask - how you feel this rides, and you’re opinion generally about the frame? Did you choose not to wrap it especially as it’s carbon? Any issues? I ask as i had a blown controller on my first BBSHD after just 5miles (not exactly normal I know, was v odd) My experience of the Chinese company’s (EM3EV) listening abilities and return policy was not great, hence I am somewhat concerned about potential warranty issues from Dengfu. Sorry that’s as It’s a bit of a difficult question(s) but I thought I’d ask. Lastly, any opinion on the Dengfu battery, any specific reaason(s) you chose to self build? Price? Weight?
Thanks

 

[Sheff73]

Hi Paolo. Thanks for the comments.
Similar to you I started my e-bike journey building a BBSHD powered rig and got the bug. The BBHSD does hang down quite low, so isn't ideal for a MTB, but fun never the less! Also I feel the BBSHD is a little too powerful for off road most of the time, but it is a blast on road!

So far I'm really impressed with the E10 and can highly recommend it. I've been riding MTB since the dawn of time, so have had numerous rigs in the past and the E10 is right up there with my all time favourites. The geometry is modern and feels spot on for aggressive trail riding, which is what I like to do. Yes the setup can take a while to get right, but that's just a fact we have to accept with 'home builds', but if you like to 'tinker' you'll enjoy this bike.
The quality of the frame is very good and I like the 'stealth look', hence I didn't paint or wrap mine. Also after reading about other peoples experience of 'finishing' the their frames, it looked like an almighty faff that will likely get scratched up in no time!

Can't comment on warrantee as (touch wood!) so far I haven't had to claim, but other people seem to get problems resolved eventually, but it can take slightly longer than expected. Again its another risk we take by not buying from a store, but the cost saving overall is large and worth it in my opinion. Like Rob's original 'Cheeb', my aim was to build the best spec. I could for the min. outlay. Yes it took nearly 3 months to source all the parts (new and second hand), but my E10 came in at under £3k, which I feel is a bargain nowadays.

When I built my BBSHD rig I had to make a bespoke battery to fit the frame, hence I sourced some reputable cells and went on a learning curve. If you have the confidence, basic battery knowledge (especially the safety side) and tools to make one, I would again recommend trying. You can save money, get a good reliable battery and the capacity you want. It does save a little weight, as you don't have the relatively heavy end mounts and casing to worry about, but it is a bit of a faff to fit properly... The Dengfu battery is a good one by all accounts, so don't be put off from buying one, especially if you feel a 'home built' is outside your capability.

Cheers.

 

[Hagbard]

What plugs are you using to fill the unused cable holes near the headtube? I've been searching all over for something that would fit and keep coming up dry. Was going to 3d print something, but hard plastic doesn't really feel like the right material.

Love the build though, good job. I definitely need to spend some time UK-proofing my e10 after recent experiences!

 

[Sheff73]

Hi Hagbard. Thanks for the comments.
The cable guides at the headtube are a BIG area for water ingestion. I used some cheap rubber M7 grommets that just get 'stuffed' into the open holes. So far they've stayed put and worked well.
I might eventually coat the cable guide outer periphery and cable / hose guide holes in some black silicon, for an even tighter seal against the elements. After all, how many times do you actually change out cables / hoses, especially as they run inside the frame?

Cheers.

 

[Hagbard]

Hmmmmm.....that's got me thinking!

I wonder if it would be possible to design something (and print it) that sits over the cable ports, and some kind of gasket, to seal all of the holes that enter the frame, including the gaps around the cables? We could use the 'spare' holes to hold a nut and bolt to secure the cap tightly against the frame.

Might work, and a damn sight neater than splooging silicon everywhere. That seldom goes well, at least not for me!

 

[Waynemarlow]

Sorry but what ever you do on this frame, you will get moisture entering somehow, somewhere, there's just too many openings to do anything other than limit the ingress of moisture ( and thats the same for all Ebikes ). As almost for sure you will get some moisture whether thats just condensation being created around the warm surfaces of the motor and battery, the last thing you want to do is limit its exit by evaporation.

Sure block the big holes with the blanking grommets ( they also fill the one over the top of the motor ) but spend more time waterproofing the connectors with simple things like filling the connectors with silicon grease before plugging them in. Limit things that can go wrong like do you need a switch if as I do, take the battery out to charge and dry it out in the warm. Any thing suspect electrically that can be eliminated, do so.

To date with the simple things done and removing the battery each charge to dry and warm, the Bafang motor has been pretty robust.

 

[RyeNiel]

y

My E10 build. Sorry it won’t be as detailed as some on here, due to the fact I have bought parts new, second hand or I had the parts lying around in the first place.

Basic setup:-

• Large frame – unpainted.
• M600 motor.
• Mullet setup.
• Home built 52V 620Wh 14S 4P 12Ah Samsung 30Q cells + BMS battery pack. Fitted with Amass XT60 charging socket and XT90 battery connection.

More details:-

• Raw carbon large frame with custom decals and switch / charging sockets removed / blanked.
• X-Fusion 36 Trace 170mm fork with bolt-on RSP ProGuard (standard) mudguard.
• X-Fusion Vector HLR coil shock 210mm x 55mm.
• Nuke Proof 600lb x 2.8 light steel spring.

• Snail 34T 104mm BCD chain ring.
• XT 11-Speed Shifter + mech.
• KMC X11EL gold chain.
• ZITTO CG-08 chain device.

• SRAM G2 RSC brakes with 203mm rotors.

• RSP Trail 35mm stem.
• USE Ultimate 31,8mm Nail 780mm x 20mm rise carbon bars.
• Rockshox Reverb 150mm seat post.
• DMR V12 mag pedals.
• Madison Flux saddle.
• DMR Death grips in Gum, thick.
• Dengfu seat clamp + headset.

• Hope Pro4 hubs.
• DT Swiss EX511 rims 29" front, 27.5" rear.
• DT Swiss Competition spokes.
• DT Swiss Pro Lock alloy 15mm nipples + PHR washers.
• Maxxis 29" Assegai 2.5"WT 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR.
• Maxxis 27.5" Minion DHR 2.6"WT 3C Maxx Terra EXO+ rear tyre.
• Hope Torque Caps.

• Custom made from Kydex, a rear mud guard, bash guard and battery covers.
• Custom made aluminium channel to hold battery into frame with hook and loop strap.
• Custom spare mech hanger storage inside front shock mount area.

Weight 24.3kg all in.


Any questions regarding the build, then please fire away.

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ou made your own battery?

 

[Sheff73]

y

ou made your own battery?

Yep. Pretty straight forward. If you need any advice / help then let me know.

 

[AlexRus]

Yep. Pretty straight forward. If you need any advice / help then let me know.

please tell us more about creating a battery

 

[Ebikeinator]

Also I feel the BBSHD is a little too powerful for off road most of the time, but it is a blast on road!

Not too powerful for off road, but too powerful for most drivetrain parts. Ask me how I know.

 

[Sheff73]

please tell us more about creating a battery

I'll put something together.

 

[Waynemarlow]

please tell us more about creating a battery

Can you build your own battery for the E10 ?

Yes is the answer, but with caveats here. The manufacturers use proprietory Can Bus signals and the likes to manage and interpret the battery to protect it from too much load and the total number of charges etc. But if you research and look around the internet its surprising how much info you...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Sheff73]

Thanks for the link Waynemarlow.
I can't really add much extra info. here, apart from also recommending this site:- EbikeSchool.com and Mike's Youtube vid's for anything homebuilt, e-bike related.

 

[Sheff73]

Sorry but what ever you do on this frame, you will get moisture entering somehow, somewhere, there's just too many openings to do anything other than limit the ingress of moisture ( and thats the same for all Ebikes ). As almost for sure you will get some moisture whether thats just condensation being created around the warm surfaces of the motor and battery, the last thing you want to do is limit its exit by evaporation.

Sure block the big holes with the blanking grommets ( they also fill the one over the top of the motor ) but spend more time waterproofing the connectors with simple things like filling the connectors with silicon grease before plugging them in. Limit things that can go wrong like do you need a switch if as I do, take the battery out to charge and dry it out in the warm. Any thing suspect electrically that can be eliminated, do so.

To date with the simple things done and removing the battery each charge to dry and warm, the Bafang motor has been pretty robust.

Worryingly I heard a 'sloshing' sound from the headtube area this morning. After removing the fork to see what was going on, I managed to tip out half a cup of water onto the floor! It looks like the cable entry / exits at the headtube definitely need some extra sealing... I'm also 99% sure the water trapped, was from cleaning the bike with a hose and not from ingress from riding.
Also the headset races where starting to show signs of rust...

The shape of the frame means there are 2 'traps' (as highlighted in the photo below) where the water can sit without draining. Will look into some form of 'drain assist' and better sealing of the cable guides going forward...

 

[mdlampe]

Hi everyone, I am no bike expert, but now building my own E10/M600. Having worked on aircraft for years as an electronics tech, I can say two things here. If water can get in, which it will, you must either leave it an exit at the low point or open it up every now and then to air out. Secondly spray some water displacing lube or sealant on all the connections once they are nice and tight. A good inspection routine is a must. Even if it doesn't have any electronics, its metal and it will corrode; its rubber and it will deteriorate; its plastic it will break. Such is the world we live in. The only things which last were made before the 1970's.

 

[SchadowMaster]

Which coil spring weight do you recommend for me for the same frame without complex calculations?
I weigh 80 kg, was thinking 550lb coil?

 

[thaeber]

I am 90 kg and use a 450-550lbs progressive spring.i tried 550 - too firm. 500 - ok, but could be more sensitive at beginning stroke. Now the progressive spring is the best of two worlds

 

[Geoff12a]

Hi back again with a problem bike was working fine when I put it in the car stopped working on my credit out the car think it is my own switch does anyone have one in the UK m600 display and button I can buy

 

[Sheff73]

Which coil spring weight do you recommend for me for the same frame without complex calculations?
I weigh 80 kg, was thinking 550lb coil?

I'm 80kg + gear and tried a 550lb Nukeproof Super light steel spring, which was about right (maybe a bit soft as 35% sag) for my X-fusion shock (also the X-fusion spring calculator recommended the 550 for my weight).
I found the Nukeproof spring would blow through its travel quite easily though, but adding plenty of compression damping helped.
Like thaeber I now use a Cane Creek Valt progressive spring, but at the higher rating of 550lb-670lb, which works better for me.
Use your shock manufacturers spring rate calculator would be my recommendation.

 

[LAnton]

Why are you assembling the battery, it's not safe? Dengfu has inexpensive batteries, it is better to buy a ready-made battery.