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Agreed, a reasonably high leveraged force through the headset with 80kg and a 780/2mm lever.
I think the problem is you crashed your bike.
I'm not sure what a 'simple washout' is but whether it was slow, not from a great height or whatever, sometimes it can still put a lot of force in to just the wrong place...
Unfortunately the knock block is just another component, not an insurance policy.
100% agree. If you're going to design a frame where the crown can hit the down tube, the knock block should be strong enough to withstand the impact of crashesIts a mtb , surely it should be designed to crash. Ask yourself : is it fit for purpose:.
Im glad I didn't buy one , I washed out last week at cannock on the marbles 3/4 of the way down the last decent of the Monkey. When I managed to extricate myself from the tree stump I landed on the bars were back to front.
How can they build bikes that break after a simple wash out.???
Still not defending Trek, but ask yourself something else: is there any actual evidence out there that Trek bikes are worse than other brands when it comes to crash damage?Its an mtb, surely it should be designed to crash. Ask yourself: is it fit for purpose?
Same question. If Trek can honestly say that they're no worse than any other brand (and as I say, I can't find anything to suggest that Trek is any more prone to frame damage in crashes than anyone else) they can also say they are - self-evidently - strong enough.100% agree. If you're going to design a frame where the crown can hit the down tube, the knock block should be strong enough to withstand the impact of crashes
Ok, yes, the knock block may well be strong enough in the majority of cases. But even if damage is rare, is that reason not to warranty when it does occur? I come back to my Bike Yoke dropper. They didn't say because the fault is rare, we aren't going to warranty. They honoured their warranty, as they should. I believe Trek should do the same here.Still not defending Trek, but ask yourself something else: is there any actual evidence out there that Trek bikes are any worse than any other brands when it comes to crash damage?
I can't find any - and I've really looked...
Same question. If Trek can honestly say that they're no worse than any other brand (and as I say, I can't find anything to suggest that Trek is any more prone to frame damage in crashes than anyone else) they can also say they are - self-evidently - strong enough.
Given that the vast majority of opinions of anything on the internet come from people who aren't happy about something, the lack of complaints about Knock Block's ability to protect the frame is compelling by its sheer absence.
People dislike Knock Block for other reasons, but not - if the internet is anything to go by - because riders are busting up frames with alarming regularity.
All I can say is , after reading this thread , I would never buy a trek or any other bike that has this problem. I can’t understand why anybody would. It’s got to be a design fault.
I think Trek designed the straight downtube & knock block simply to have a point of difference from other brands. They claimed the downtube was stronger if it didn't have a bend where it joins the headtube (although other brands seem to do perfectly fine). Having a straight downtube meant the fork crown would hit the downtube, hence the knock block. Irony is, at least on the L & XL Rails, the fork clears the frame anyway. I've taken a dremel to my knockblock so I can run a normal stem and spacers. I see the latest Slash still has the knock block, but for no purpose whatsoever. The downtube has a bend at the top so the fork will clear it. They even say the knock block can be removed if desired. So why even bother?I have the greatest sympathy for the OP but from a purely engineering point of view I cannot see that any headset mounted contraption could withstand the potential forces in a crash that rotate the bars sufficient to bring the fork into contact with the frame. So in my book if the fork can in any way hit the downtube the fundamental design of the bike is flawed, especially as there is no specific reason for that to be the case. I was just looking at another post on here of a Canyon Spectral where the OP want to change the headset bearings. The bottom bearing does not look like it can be drifted out past a collar that has a castellation....ie a knock block. The frame is carbon. So how is that collar fixed to the headtube?? Bonded, threaded, press fit? Which ever , if it is strong enough to prevent it rotating it will rip the carbon it is mounted on. If it is not strong enough to prevent rotation it will achieve nothing!! Stupid engineering design!!
Painting your frame is one thing, but I hope you're not planning to "upgrade" to v brakes!? ?Besides which frames with bent downtubes look very sexy. Frames with straight ones look like they should have v brakes. Mind you, you know how I feel about the Trek aesthetic designers
My zeb ultimate lsc adjuster misses the rubber bumper on the downtube and hits my frame enough to scrape through the paint (and perhaps the frame) if I let it. Enough to do some serious damage.at least on the L & XL Rails, the fork clears the frame anyway.
I’ve just taken my knock block apart to check clearance as had a little washout the other night and felt the bars go a bit further than usual, read this then sh*t myself! Made sure the standard Zeb select + on my 9.8 clears the frame (large) and it does... just. ?My zeb ultimate lsc adjuster misses the rubber bumper on the downtube and hits my frame enough to scrape through the paint (and perhaps the frame) if I let it. Enough to do some serious damage.
this is on a XL rail 9.7.
I intend to either grind down the edge of the adjuster or remove the adjuster and replace with bare screw as per the comment above.
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