how do you unlock the full fat power on the rise?

[Cavi]

Out of curiosity, what is involved in unlocking the full fat power on a Rise?

 

[Schnipps]

It’s not easy, basically you need the proper cable to connect it to your pc then use st unlocker, if your doing it over Bluetooth you need to downgrade the software first by following guides from st unlocker then you can unlock it. You need to purchase the full version of st unlocked but your going to invalidate your motor warranty. I looked into it and then decided it wasn’t for me, some on here have done it though although how long the battery would last at 80nm on turbo I dread to think, probably half an hour :0)

 

[aarfeldt]

....and on top of the 85Nm you can set assist to 42 kmh.....just to eat the battery faster.....but it's so much fun, which is the whole point.
So it's up to the rider.....range is between +100km to less than 10km.

 

[Cavi]

fr those who did it, do I have to take much of the bike apart to get the cable to connect to the bike?

 

[Cavi]

aso can I run the st ride app without unlocking my bike? That program looks great, much nicer than my Garmin. Do you know if it can send data to strava?

 

[Cavi]

So I just tried the St Ride app, and it does hook up really well with my android phone. The display is awesome and is much easier to read than my Garmin device. Is there some odd reason to use the Garmin over the St Ride? It even autouploads to strava for me.....

 

[KuRi]

fr those who did it, do I have to take much of the bike apart to get the cable to connect to the bike?

You don't need to take almost nothing apart to connect the cable. Just disconnect the remote assist level controller and connect the original shimano cable.

Anyway you don't need to use the shimano cable. You can just downgrade to 4.0.2 and unlock the max speed using bluetooth, then upgrade again to 4.1.6 and use the app to adjust max power if needed.

 

[Flatsix66]

My experience with STunlocker on a recent purchased Rise is... With IOS Bluetooth you don't need to downrev the FW to increase the profile power settings or the watt limits. I emailed the SW author and he suggested using the WIndows app with the Shimano cable interface. But I only used the STunlocker app, did not downrev FW and was still able to change the max Nm and battery draw. I set my boost to 85Nm and 500Wh draw, trail to 60Nm and 350Wh.

Does it suck the battery?
I have routine ride of around 14mi and 1600ft of climb, takes about 60 minutes for me. I have a 2020 Turbo Levo to compare with on this ride. My Turbo levo would do this ride in 55 minutes with about 40% battery remaining (700wh battery) and I would average around 110 BPM heart rate. On my stock Rise with 60Nm this same ride would take a little longer, 60minutes, have 31% battery remaining and average 126BPM. WIth the STunlocker I set the boost setting to 85nm and battery draw to 500wh. This same ride is also 55 minutes like the Levo, my battery is 30% remaining and I average 126BPM.

Bottom line:
The Rise with the STunlocker set to 85Nm on boost makes you ride faster, still need the high cadence to get the torque like the stock Rise. No drawback on battery draw if you keep the cadence up because you cover the distance faster because of boost. Compared to the full fat Levo the Rise with the STunlocker boost is close to as powerful, much lighter and fun and the effective battery range is less but not by much and manageable.

 

[KuRi]

My experience with STunlocker on a recent purchased Rise is... With IOS Bluetooth you don't need to downrev the FW to increase the profile power settings or the watt limits. I emailed the SW author and he suggested using the WIndows app with the Shimano cable interface. But I only used the STunlocker app, did not downrev FW and was still able to change the max Nm and battery draw. I set my boost to 85Nm and 500Wh draw, trail to 60Nm and 350Wh.

Does it suck the battery?
I have routine ride of around 14mi and 1600ft of climb, takes about 60 minutes for me. I have a 2020 Turbo Levo to compare with on this ride. My Turbo levo would do this ride in 55 minutes with about 40% battery remaining (700wh battery) and I would average around 110 BPM heart rate. On my stock Rise with 60Nm this same ride would take a little longer, 60minutes, have 31% battery remaining and average 126BPM. WIth the STunlocker I set the boost setting to 85nm and battery draw to 500wh. This same ride is also 55 minutes like the Levo, my battery is 30% remaining and I average 126BPM.

Bottom line:
The Rise with the STunlocker set to 85Nm on boost makes you ride faster, still need the high cadence to get the torque like the stock Rise. No drawback on battery draw if you keep the cadence up because you cover the distance faster because of boost. Compared to the full fat Levo the Rise with the STunlocker boost is close to as powerful, much lighter and fun and the effective battery range is less but not by much and manageable.

That's awesome! I was able to set to 85nm only after downgrading to 4.0.2 then upgrading again to 4.1.6

 

[finky]

You don't need to take almost nothing apart to connect the cable. Just disconnect the remote assist level controller and connect the original shimano cable.

Anyway you don't need to use the shimano cable. You can just downgrade to 4.0.2 and unlock the max speed using bluetooth, then upgrade again to 4.1.6 and use the app to adjust max power if needed.

Hi , How do you downgrade the firmware?

 

[Roc]

Hi , How do you downgrade the firmware?

If I’m not wrong you can follow this procedure : Link

 

[finky]

that last sentence in red kind of invalidates it for use on a rise!!

 

[KuRi]

that last sentence in red kind of invalidates it for use on a rise!!

Thats is only for e8000.

many of us have downgraded to 4.0.2 and we are very happy (it is a completely new bike after that)

 

[soundwave]

How about leaving the torque settings unchanged and just change the region to US / remove the speed limit - is the procedure still the same?

 

[aarfeldt]

How about leaving the torque settings unchanged and just change the region to US / remove the speed limit - is the procedure still the same?

Yes....procedure is the same.
You cannot remove the assist speed limit...but you can change it

If you have the Shimano diagnostic box (PCE1/2) and a Windows PC, you dont have to downgrade.

 

[soundwave]

Thanks. There seems to be two different units 1 and 2 - can you suggest which one would be a better choice?

 

[aarfeldt]

1 is the old one and 2 is the new one.
Both will work....maybe just lend one, as they are quite expensive....LBS maybe ?

 

[michel uit berg]

Is it also possible to go back to orbea software with 60nm or is it never go back?

 

[KuRi]

Yes, you just need to upgrade to latest (but if you changed the region, change it again before updating)

 

[michel uit berg]

oke thank you. For now, 60 is enough for me.

 

[faberle]

Slightly off subject but when the track gets very steep, I find the default Turbo (in mode 2) a good balance between power and control. That assist isn't even using the full 60nm of the Rise (default assist is 5 out of 7, i.e. 45nm I think). Isn't 85nm denaturing this very special and fine e-bike ?

 

[soundwave]

You are spot on. It’s about balance. When you add too much power, you become a passenger instead of a driver.

 

[KuRi]

My experience with STunlocker on a recent purchased Rise is... With IOS Bluetooth you don't need to downrev the FW to increase the profile power settings or the watt limits. I emailed the SW author and he suggested using the WIndows app with the Shimano cable interface. But I only used the STunlocker app, did not downrev FW and was still able to change the max Nm and battery draw. I set my boost to 85Nm and 500Wh draw, trail to 60Nm and 350Wh.

Does it suck the battery?
I have routine ride of around 14mi and 1600ft of climb, takes about 60 minutes for me. I have a 2020 Turbo Levo to compare with on this ride. My Turbo levo would do this ride in 55 minutes with about 40% battery remaining (700wh battery) and I would average around 110 BPM heart rate. On my stock Rise with 60Nm this same ride would take a little longer, 60minutes, have 31% battery remaining and average 126BPM. WIth the STunlocker I set the boost setting to 85nm and battery draw to 500wh. This same ride is also 55 minutes like the Levo, my battery is 30% remaining and I average 126BPM.

Bottom line:
The Rise with the STunlocker set to 85Nm on boost makes you ride faster, still need the high cadence to get the torque like the stock Rise. No drawback on battery draw if you keep the cadence up because you cover the distance faster because of boost. Compared to the full fat Levo the Rise with the STunlocker boost is close to as powerful, much lighter and fun and the effective battery range is less but not by much and manageable.

Did you notice motor vibrations? Specially when low battery, when I set 500W and 85nm I notice lot of vibrations coming from motor, probably because not enough battery output power... Vibrations dissapear when resetting to 350w... Thanks.