My size large E+1 came with 165 cranks not 170s (which I've swapped for 155s anyway).I have a medium reign E+0 2022 and have it in the low setting and very rarely get any pedal strikes with saint clipless pedals, the medium comes with 165 cranks and when I measured the BB in low it was 335mm so perhaps the larger frames are just a bit lower and with 170 cranks would cause more pedal strikes
My bad bud, edited my original post
Interesting, what coil did you go for, link?
I went for this : FENIX ENDURO SHOCK STANDARD Lock out lever color Purple Size 200mm of length x 57mm of stroke The Fast Fenix is a bit unknown , but a great product high quality and it will be tunned to your weight and bike upon purchase. It has a sperate channel for its climbing lock out, and has a hydraulic bump stop /bottom out feature. where i ride its perfect , Id never look back, and is extremly low maintenance. the grip levels and tracking of the terrain is really night and day. And I can ride flat out in sections where the bike would be too low. I guess if there isnt much climbing in your area, a coil without a climbing mode ( cheaper) would do a great job.
Really interesting to read this as I wondered whether my 2.4 inch rear contributed. Do let me know if the 2.8 helps - I’ve found the 152 cranks are great but didn’t totally solve!Reviving this thread, unfortunately
So my first ride out on stock tyres wasn't too bad, BB in high ~335mm high BB (which is ridiculously low) only a few pedal strikes.
Second ride this morning, I setup my much nicer wheels both rocking 2.4 tyres instead of the 2.6/2.5 stock tyres, BB dropped quite considerably down to 228mm in high (well done Giant on the completely incorrect numbers in the geo charts), and went out to a rocky area with a lot of technical climbing, I hit the cranks hard at least 20 times in an hour and had two heavy motor casing impacts also.
Got to the office, immediately ordered a 2.8 rear tyre and 150mm cranks.
Need to play around with suspension, I have the fork pretty stiff (feels great), but the rear seems to be blowing through travel, might need to drop sag below 25%, could also use some additional damping but don't think I have any external adjustments on that.
While I agree with "it's the rider, not the bike" for most things like speed, technique etc. For pedal strikes, it really is the bike, the stock reign has a BB, and thus pedals, 2cm lower to the ground than average for the enduro e-bike class, and 4cm lower than some of the top rated ones like the Pole Voima. It isn't just my pedals that are hitting the ground but the motor casing and chainring also!Don’t blame the bike!
Fit 155 crank arms. I have hope 155s on mine and pedal strikes are much less
Ditto on the Hope 155s. Also went to a 2.8 Magic Mary on the rear and haven't had any real pedal strikes since.
I can honestly say 155 cranks have transformed mine. Hardly any strikes now.
I'm sure it did why wouldn't it? The question is whether there was much of a trade off( There's that whole balance thing) and would it be same for some else with a different body build? Don't get me wrong I'm not saying don't go that route it's just not an end all.
Did you end up changing your saddle height?
No. I dont do much riding in the saddle and do not in any case set the max seat height to be the most efficient for pedalling because with a motor, that is is not a priority and I want the saddle slammed as low as possible a lot of the time. As I mentioned a bove the shorter cranks make it easier to rotate the cranks from standstill or slow start anyway.
I adjusted my seat height when I went to 155 cranks. I agree that they make a big difference in terms of clearance with no downsides that I can feel. I've been wondering whether to go even shorter (down to 145).
you do know that most people can do both with the right dropper? I do get where your coming from as far as not being in the saddle much. There are technics that use being in saddle for things like traction. As far as max seat height being the most efficient it depends what you set for a max seat height. For me a good dropper can be slam all the down close to the frame and go all the way up where you want its max ride height another words it has the full range you want not having to sacrifice one for the other. Any way i'm not bashing short crank
and they do work but it does depend on the rider to degree what would optimalWhat you gained far outweighed any losses you may of had. So coming short was actually a good thing. What is key is any downsides are so small that you're not noticing them. I think you would start to notice something with the 145's.
Obviously there will come a point where cranks will be too short but I wonder if a lot of us aren't stuck in our ways from years of riding analogue bikes? When Hope are saying that they now recommend 155 cranks for normal bikes maybe the optimal length for eebs might be even shorter? I'd be interested to hear from people who have actually tried 145s and aren't solely basing their choices on years of programming about what constitutes "normal". I've been riding long enough to remember when 135mm stems were considered optimal........
your thinking that they would be shorter on eebs. I think if both bikes have the same clearances they wouldn't be. If your saying the motor could compensate for the shorter cranks yes.
