Hot melt wax - the journey begins

[Ark]

The X01 chain is one of the best chains out there for not rusting and long life.
Do exactly what Hobo Mikey does. Gt85 and replace it around 3k miles and stop being a slave to the chain!

hows g85 thick enough to use as a lube, it leaves behind a microscopic coating of PTFE.

It's almost like silicone shine if you spray it on a frame and then wipe it down after. I don't think its rubber friendly though. so avoid seals/forks
When you lube a chain only the internal rollers need lube, I doubt spraying gt85 is even touching them.
it will stop your chain rusting I guess if nothing else

Thats why soaking a chain in wax is seen as superior, and in some opinions stripping the original factory lube to use a drip based lube is bad, as without soaking you can't really properly grease the rollers inside the chain
it's too much faff for me though soI just use a normal drip on waxy lube every few rides, and after each ride wipe the chain with an old sock

The roller is what needs lube, and obviously not on the outside.
Chains don't stretch it's the Bushings, pins and rollers wearing down

 

[Downhillr]

I switched to Molten Speed Wax (MSpeedWax) and could not be happier. I'm at 300 miles now and it still feels like a freshly lubed chain. The best part is the whole drive drain looks brand new, no build up of any grit or grime, haven't washed my bike yet as I typically don't ride in mud.

For stripping factory grease off a new chain Silca made it any easy 10 minute job with their Chain Stripper.

Chain Stripper

The one step cleaning and prep solution for chain waxing. Get rid of the toxic chemicals and welcome this biodegradable one-step solution.

silca.cc

I use same cleaner, two applications works best for me

 

[ReadyShreddy]

Would you recommend getting a new chain for this? I have an Nx cassette and chain on my levo that's a few months old. I was thinking of upgrading to the x01 chain as I've seen one for a fair price?

 

[Ou812]

Would you recommend getting a new chain for this? I have an Nx cassette and chain on my levo that's a few months old. I was thinking of upgrading to the x01 chain as I've seen one for a fair price?

I would recommend starting with a fresh chain, then strip the factory grease off with something like Silca’s ultimate chain stripper. You can still use a used chain you just need to make sure it’s really clean, there’s a few methods but the best I’ve found is the 2 jar and shake method if you don’t want to buy a sonic cleaner.

 

[ReadyShreddy]

I would recommend starting with a fresh chain, then strip the factory grease off with something like Silca’s ultimate chain stripper. You can still use a used chain you just need to make sure it’s really clean, there’s a few methods but the best I’ve found is the 2 jar and shake method if you don’t want to buy a sonic cleaner.

Just ordered the X01 and will strip this once it arrives. Hopefully that will keep things running smoothly for quite some time. What do you do with the cassette? Is this cleaned with a standard degreaser before I put the new waxed chain on.

 

[Onetime]

Just ordered the X01 and will strip this once it arrives. Hopefully that will keep things running smoothly for quite some time. What do you do with the cassette? Is this cleaned with a standard degreaser before I put the new waxed chain on.

Yes, I’d clean/degrease the whole drivetrain.

 

[Ou812]

Just ordered the X01 and will strip this once it arrives. Hopefully that will keep things running smoothly for quite some time. What do you do with the cassette? Is this cleaned with a standard degreaser before I put the new waxed chain on.

Yep…just use whatever drivetrain degreaser you’d normally use on the cassette. I like to take mine off and scrub as I find I can get it cleaner that way but most people aren’t as OCD about it as I am.

 

[ReadyShreddy]

Yep…just use whatever drivetrain degreaser you’d normally use on the cassette. I like to take mine off and scrub as I find I can get it cleaner that way but most people aren’t as OCD about it as I am.

Ok thanks, i will clean mine with it on the wheel I'm definitely not OCD when it comes to cleaning

 

[Ark]

What do you do with the cassette?

just take the wheel off and take it to the shower and lightly spray the cassette with cold water and give it a good scrub.if you use degreaser or washing up liquid be very careful and use small amounts.
I'm not sure how sealed freehubs are and you don't want to wash away any grease in there

 

[ReadyShreddy]

just take the wheel off and take it to the shower and lightly spray the cassette with cold water and give it a good scrub.if you use degreaser or washing up liquid be very careful and use small amounts.
I'm not sure how sealed freehubs are and you don't want to wash away any grease in there

Ok thanks for the advice

 

[Christurbo]

I’ve always used moltenspeedwax. Incredible stuff.

Once done I top up with squirt in between rides. Then once in a while I’ll do a retreatment of MSW which takes 20 mins in total. Saves having to buy loads of chains and rotate.

I live in wet and muddy Wales all round the year and I’ve never had an issue with conditions and chains last ages.

 

[ReadyShreddy]

I cleaned and waxed the chain the other day and took it out for a very muddy ride today. Drive train and chain not full of the usual pine needles and other unwanted gunk so I'm happy so far.

 

[John-E]

Wax on/Wax off

 

[Mr President]

Can i ask what tempcounts as ‘really cold weather’ and what you are using for the ‘low temperature formula’.

thanks

 

[Mr President]

Sorry that last question was for Capuccino

 

[Mr President]

In my 25-year "bike career," I've tried many different chain lubes: wet, dry, graphene infused, drip wax, etc. However, in the end, all of them, more or less, led to a dirty and gunky drivetrain. So, I finally decided to join the Hot Wax gang. At the same time I upgraded the cassette and chain(s) to SRAM X01, as my SRAM GX chain disintegrated after 500 km (see below).

View attachment 134669

Preparation of the new chain (stripping the factory grease) is a royal pain in the neck. Five baths in white/mineral spirit, followed by two baths in denatured alcohol, did the job. It's crucial the chain is as clean as possible for the wax to properly bond with bare metal and do its job.

View attachment 134672
(4th bath on the left, 1st bath on the right)

After extensive research, I have decided to opt for the Silca Secret Chain blend, which utilizes highly refined paraffin and a high concentration of three specific sizes of nano-scale Tungsten Disulfide to provide chain protection and coating.

The Immersive waxing process is straightforward: put your wax of choice in a slow cooker, throw in the chain, wait until the wax melts, swish the chain a couple of times, remove, and hang to dry. Done.


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I'm looking forward to the first ride and the durability of the hot melt wax. I will try to keep a log and share my experience after a few rides and in the long term.

Watching with interest. Also started hot waxing few weeks back with secret chain wax. So far so good.
last year I had anNX chain that broke in exactly the same manner as your chain from the first photo after only 100 miles. I thought it was because I’d dropped down from GX, but seeing your identical picture I’m wondering if there was a batch of sub standard plates out there? i bought from a reputable dealer who swapped it for a GX under warranty+

 

[Ark]

For the record the only difference between x01 and xx1 is the xx1 has better coating on the outer links and 12grams lighter.

I've had a xx1 on my Bosch CX for 600miles so far, I'm 106kg and my bike about 27kg
googles bot seems to be spreading the rumour it's a cross country group set purely because xx1 is lighter weight due to the derailleur etc having carbon parts.

The myth it's not suitable for ebikes seems to be complete BS

 

[Onetime]

For the record the only difference between x01 and xx1 is the xx1 has better coating on the outer links and 12grams lighter.

I've had a xx1 on my Bosch CX for 600miles so far, I'm 106kg and my bike about 27kg
googles bot seems to be spreading the rumour it's a cross country group set purely because xx1 is lighter weight due to the derailleur etc having carbon parts.

The myth it's not suitable for ebikes seems to be complete BS

It is BS. I’ve been using KMC 11sp SL chains and YBN 11sp ti chains on my full power Bosch motor e-bikes for over 1000 miles without issues. Both are lightweight chains that I was told won’t last with a full power ebike and I’ve prove that was also bs.

 

[Mr President]

I'm also on the wax-chain-thing...

I start by cleaning the chain in a ultrasonic cleaner - 15 minuttes and it's VERY clean.
Then I dry the chain (compressed air/old hand towel) and continue with the slow cooker with wax in it - same process as OP.

Very happy with the result - and rotating 3 chains on 1 LG casette.

Do you use a solvent in the ultrasonic cleaner? I’ve been using diluted carburettor cleaner. It works well, but would like to find something less toxic and more environmentally friendly

 

[Mr President]

I hot wax my chains but I need to go to a lower temperature formula for winter because in really cold weather the rollers 'freeze' and skid on the cassette teeth, rather than rolling as they should.

I won't be going back to oil though, for sure.

What formulas are you using versus temperature?

 

[Onetime]

Do you use a solvent in the ultrasonic cleaner? I’ve been using diluted carburettor cleaner. It works well, but would like to find something less toxic and more environmentally friendly

Once the new chain is degreased of the factory coating, hot water with a little dawn dish soap is all that is needed, since there is just old wax and very little dirt after its been used for a few hundred miles. Dry after by wiping it down with a clean rag towel and rewax once it’s fully dry. I use Finish line citrus degreaser, (it’s biodegradable and not as harsh) for the initial removal of the factory coating, but just hot water and dawn soap to remove the old wax.

 

[Mr President]

Once the new chain is degreased of the factory coating, hot water with a little dawn dish soap is all that is needed, since there is just old wax and very little dirt after its been used for a few hundred miles. Dry after by wiping it down with a clean rag towel and rewax once it’s fully dry. I use Finish line citrus degreaser, (it’s biodegradable and not as harsh) for the initial removal of the factory coating, but just hot water and dawn soap to remove the old wax.

Thanks. I’ll buy some bulk citrus

 

[Mr President]

In my 25-year "bike career," I've tried many different chain lubes: wet, dry, graphene infused, drip wax, etc. However, in the end, all of them, more or less, led to a dirty and gunky drivetrain. So, I finally decided to join the Hot Wax gang. At the same time I upgraded the cassette and chain(s) to SRAM X01, as my SRAM GX chain disintegrated after 500 km (see below).

View attachment 134669

Preparation of the new chain (stripping the factory grease) is a royal pain in the neck. Five baths in white/mineral spirit, followed by two baths in denatured alcohol, did the job. It's crucial the chain is as clean as possible for the wax to properly bond with bare metal and do its job.

View attachment 134672
(4th bath on the left, 1st bath on the right)

After extensive research, I have decided to opt for the Silca Secret Chain blend, which utilizes highly refined paraffin and a high concentration of three specific sizes of nano-scale Tungsten Disulfide to provide chain protection and coating.

The Immersive waxing process is straightforward: put your wax of choice in a slow cooker, throw in the chain, wait until the wax melts, swish the chain a couple of times, remove, and hang to dry. Done.


View attachment 134671

View attachment 134673

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I'm looking forward to the first ride and the durability of the hot melt wax. I will try to keep a log and share my experience after a few rides and in the long term.

One thing I’ve found that is a royal pita and nobody mentions is the quick link. I saw a GCN vid where they waxed the link, so have been doing the same, but it is difficult to put back in the chain afterwards. Have to remove all the wax from the chain plates and from the link groove. I’m thinking that with affected rollers get more wax than any other part of the chain, so maybe the link can be left untaxed.
any thoughts?

 

[BikeBert]

One thing I’ve found that is a royal pita and nobody mentions is the quick link. I saw a GCN vid where they waxed the link, so have been doing the same, but it is difficult to put back in the chain afterwards. Have to remove all the wax from the chain plates and from the link groove. I’m thinking that with affected rollers get more wax than any other part of the chain, so maybe the link can be left untaxed.
any thoughts?

According to experts in immersive chain waxing, such as ZFC (Zero Friction Cycling), it is advised not to wax the quick link. This is because waxing the quick link can make it more difficult to connect the chain and may even lead to link failure (see video below).

 

[Streddaz]

I'd be interested to know from the waxed chain converts, do you ride in wet, muddy conditions? From what I have read that wax is great in dry conditions, but you can't' get it very wet. Half the year where I live, most of the rides are wet and muddy, summer rides are generally dry but not always.

 

[Mr President]

According to experts in immersive chain waxing, such as ZFC (Zero Friction Cycling), it is advised not to wax the quick link. This is because waxing the quick link can make it more difficult to connect the chain and may even lead to link failure (see video below).

Thanks. That chimes. I'll not wax another link

 

[Mr President]

I'd be interested to know from the waxed chain converts, do you ride in wet, muddy conditions? From what I have read that wax is great in dry conditions, but you can't' get it very wet. Half the year where I live, most of the rides are wet and muddy, summer rides are generally dry but not always.

Only been doing it a few weeks. 6 very wet and muddy rides in old South Wales and Forest of dean. It's a good test bench especially at this time of year.
It's looking great so far. No longevity test obviously, but the cleanliness is so encouraging. I'd be very surprised if I go back to lube.

Question for any doubters:if it works in dry; why wouldn't it work in the wet?

All with the the newbie caveat.

 

[Onetime]

According to experts in immersive chain waxing, such as ZFC (Zero Friction Cycling), it is advised not to wax the quick link. This is because waxing the quick link can make it more difficult to connect the chain and may even lead to link failure (see video below).

I leave the link attached and clipped together to the chain when I wax, so it’s not difficult to then take it off and then put the chain back on the bike and re-clip the link back on.

 

[Onetime]

I'd be interested to know from the waxed chain converts, do you ride in wet, muddy conditions? From what I have read that wax is great in dry conditions, but you can't' get it very wet. Half the year where I live, most of the rides are wet and muddy, summer rides are generally dry but not always.

It still works in muddy conditions, better than oil, but it just needs to be cleaned and re-waxed a little sooner than normal.

 

[Streddaz]

Only been doing it a few weeks. 6 very wet and muddy rides in old South Wales and Forest of dean. It's a good test bench especially at this time of year.
It's looking great so far. No longevity test obviously, but the cleanliness is so encouraging. I'd be very surprised if I go back to lube.

Question for any doubters:if it works in dry; why wouldn't it work in the wet?

All with the the newbie caveat.

I had heard before that wax washes off in the wet, so if it's a long ride there more chance of not being lubricated and the possibility of having to rewax the chain afterwards. This may not really be a problem, and I'd be interested to hear people's opinion.
I suppose it's the hassle of maintaining a waxed chain vs the extra life of your drivetrain and which is worth more to you.