Help needed: M510 FC2.0 not switching on

[Karamba!]

Hi,
2 days ago I was leaving for a ride. When I turned on the bike through the remote (DCP245 v2) nothing happened. Tried several times but nothing. Less than a minute or so later I tried again, and it turned on fine. Went on with my ride, everything was working fine. I rode for a couple of hours and took a rest. The motor auto shut-off kicked in and I could not switch it on again. Hours later, I could switch it on again and noticed that I could not switch it off through the remote. Since then I´ve been unable to switch it on again.
I connected it up to the computer through Besst Tool, and the screen turns on normally, but it shows 0% battery, and the controller info could not be read. At a given point, out of the blue, the battery level showed up, and I could read the controller info just fine. . I took the tool off thinking that the motor will turn on but it didn´t. Hooked everything up again and the battery showed at 0% again. PAS changed normally through the remote
I have checked that the battery is delivering power normally and I checked the harness for continuity, and all was fine. I have also triple checked that connectors were fully on on both ends.

This is what the display shows when connected to the PC:

I am ready to open up the motor since it could use a maintenance, but I am not sure what I can do to troubleshoot the controller. I also wonder if the remote could be the issue, but I´m more inclined to think it´s the controller due to the display showing 0% battery in circumstances that it is fully charged and there´s continuity in the harness.
Any advice or tips are welcome.
Thanks

 

[Waynemarlow]

Yes almost the same symptoms as many of the early 510 motors and including mine. Took me a long time to definatively pinpoint my motors problem as it would only not respond approx. 1 in 10 times trying to start.

We need to put this up on a main thread perhaps but having changed the external components such as wiring keypad display etc my motor was on occasion simply not responding to the keypad. In a discussion with Dado he pointed out that the keypad button does not take the startup line from the display fully to ground 0 volts but approx. 1/2 way only. The BESST tool however does take that wire fully to ground and thus the motor is able to differentiate between keypad input and BESST input to control the motor response. The problem in my case was the connector pcb within the motor had a poorly dry soldered connector. This dry soldered joint was thus a high resistance and was altering the keypad voltage level. The higher resistance the higher the voltage level until the motor will no longer respond to the keypad.

Very easy to repair, the connector pcb for the M510 is available from multiple sources on ALiExpress. Mine hasn't missed a beat since replacing that connector PCB.

 

[Karamba!]

Thanks a ton Wayne. Is this what you are referring to?

Is there a disassembly guide that you can recommend? I´ve found the Greenkit video on youtube, but it seems as they were finding their way as they went. Any tip on this matter is also very welcome.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Yes thats the circuit board. I will take a photo to pin point what to look for as far as a dry soldered joint looks at some stage.

I think I used the Greenkit video. Do be aware that connector board is almost the last thing to come out of the case, its right at the bottom so as to speak. Don't be put off though as its pretty basic in the way big chunks come out exposing the connector pcb board. Do also be aware the case gasket is not yet available and you may damage it getting it apart. Take care and you will probably save it enough to be able to use a gasket seal glue to fill in the missing parts. I had to use a M600 gasket which fits 75% of the way, chop the old missing bit out of the old gasket and splice the two together using the said gasket maker glue.

Do change the drive side seal and bearing as a matter of maintenance updating, its easy to do whilst the motor is apart and in my view probably the weak point of the motor. If it hasn't already gone then it soon will be. Again both are widely available on Ali Express. I took the bearing seal out and repacked it with grease, they come with not a lot of grease in there and I think thats partially the reason why there is so much water ingress at that point.

 

[Karamba!]

Thanks again Wayne. Yeah, I noticed that the pcb is at the bottom of the motor, I guess it was designed by Murphy.
Some time ago I bought the case gasket from Ali, supposedly is for the M510. Quite cheap. Is it not the right one?

As for the drive side seal, is it this one?

Or this other:

 

[Karamba!]

Answering myself about the gasket:
As you pointed out, what is sold in Ali is not the actual M510 gasket, close but not the same:

Fortunately my original gasket is pristine (so far lol).
I´m relief that after 4k kms the motor looks in pretty good shape and sufficiently lubricated. I have only tested the outer bearing and it's spinning smoothly.

 

[MrFixit]

Also check the two gold pins located inside the bottom of the frame where they connect to the battery, they sometimes stick and loose connection with the battery. I eventually bypassed this by soldering the two red wires inside the battery case together.

 

[Karamba!]

Also check the two gold pins located inside the bottom of the frame where they connect to the battery, they sometimes stick and loose connection with the battery. I eventually bypassed this by soldering the two red wires inside the battery case together.

Thanks MrFixit, I checked them and they both were proning just fine.

 

[MrFixit]

Thanks MrFixit, I checked them and they both were proning just fine.

I thought mine were ok too, but in my case those pins seemed to be the issue.

 

[Karamba!]

I thought mine were ok too, but in my case those pins seemed to be the issue.

In your case, were they stuck inside, not making contact with the battery?

 

[MrFixit]

In your case, were they stuck inside, not making contact with the battery?

Yes, it was intermittent, sometimes the bike was fine but other times it would not work.