Bafang m510

[ccrdave]

hmmm..... well mine don't... when I put the 2 bolts in (with no washers) then I put the chainring back on... it interferes with the chainring big time...so mine must be slightly different...who knows..

Are you using the right holes? Mine has three

 

[Martin (Mallorca Guiding)]

Are you using the right holes? Mine has three

mine has 3 too.... yes.. I'm using the only obvious ones... I mean it fits on...looks great... but then you put the chainring on and locknut.... tighten up then when you turn the cranks, it rubs big time... we thought after say 100 miles of a rubbing noise it would wear away.. but that metal is so thin it will just snap I guess... really weird.. I was only wondering if I was a washer missing from beginning... who knows... what chainring you running? looks like a 34T?? U see, I changed back to a 38T with a 11/52 cassette... I did have a 32T on it with 11/42 but too much spinning, I just prefer the 38T 11/52 setup, thought maybe the 38t chainring was the issue... but it states it takes up to 40T.... I'll just ride it without.. maybe being back to this set up will stop so many chain drops....

 

[ccrdave]

Maybe the 38 has an offset and the smaller rings dont

 

[Zimmerframe]

we thought after say 100 miles of a rubbing noise it would wear away.. but that metal is so thin it will just snap I guess... really weird..

Mine rubbed from new (e-mythique) so I put a washer on the chainguide.

 

[Martin (Mallorca Guiding)]

Maybe the 38 has an offset and the smaller rings dont

Possibly... can only be the reason I reckon... no matter... I think my chain will stay on better with this set up anyways.. I neve rhad many chain drops when I ran this set up at first... I only changed it as I fucked up the previous 11/52 cassette in a fall.. and I had a 11/42 from my gravel bike.. and I already had the 32T chainring...oh well... we'll see how it goes.. thanks for your help, regards Martin

 

[Caio]

Quick question, when dissembling my M510, I wasn´t able to get the torque sensor out, I followed Green kit’s tutorial on YOUTUBE when doing so, It worked fine, I was able to reach the gears and properly clean and regrease it, however when accessing the last metal ring inside the motor that clamped the torque sensor shaft, it was not possible to reach and unclamp it to free the last part, such a tight space to maneuver any pliers or what not.

Any Idea or video tutorial that you guys can reference me to on how?

Thanks,

Caio

 

[azure]

Is there someone who have good comparition M510 to Bosch CX 4 gen?
In the topic dedicated for M560 there is opinion, that there is big difference between CX and yM510 (FC1.0) and M510 is significantly weaker, especially during uphill ride.
On the other hand some compared bicycles with this two motors on this same track and transit time for bicycle with Bafang was shorter...

Could be so huge difference in behavior M510 FC1.0 and FC2.0 motors? I haven't studied all pages of this topic, sorry in advance.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Is there someone who have good comparition M510 to Bosch CX 4 gen?

In my experience the M510 FC2.0 is "comparable" to the CX4.

All the motors are different and respond and react differently. They all have disadvantages and advantages.

The Bosch has EMTB mode which means you can just leave it in there for most of the time. If you want to stretch out the range on the M510, you'd have to do some manual mode changes - though I think the Bosch will generally still give you slightly more range and altitude, quite a bit more in some circumstances - but you probably work more for it.

In terms of general performance, my 36v 19a M510 is pretty similar to the Bosch in the majority of situations.

The Bosch delivers power better at higher cadences and responds better to higher rider power input, the M510 helps more if you're lazy compared to the Bosch. Plus, the M510 stops assisting completely at about 120 cadence, which can suck sometimes. However, like all these things, you adjust. On some climbs I'm faster on the M510, on others, the Bosch. In the scheme of things, they're pretty close.

I saw the post in the M560 thread. It's pretty pointless. You know nothing about the test. Personally, there's no way I can see an M510 ridden similarly being 15% faster than the Bosch. We know nothing about rider effort, conditions, modes used, battery state at the start and end of the ride. Plus the GPS track is all over the place and the M510 ride is shown as shorter - so not exactly accurate ride recording.

My M510 has continued to get quieter. It's now a lot quieter than the Bosch, though they both have "rattle" when descending hard due to how they're designed to reduce drag.

I'm sure you'll like it and won't be disappointed.

 

[azure]

In my experience the M510 FC2.0 is "comparable" to the CX4.

All the motors are different and respond and react differently. They all have disadvantages and advantages.

The Bosch has EMTB mode which means you can just leave it in there for most of the time. If you want to stretch out the range on the M510, you'd have to do some manual mode changes - though I think the Bosch will generally still give you slightly more range and altitude, quite a bit more in some circumstances - but you probably work more for it.

In terms of general performance, my 36v 19a M510 is pretty similar to the Bosch in the majority of situations.

The Bosch delivers power better at higher cadences and responds better to higher rider power input, the M510 helps more if you're lazy compared to the Bosch. Plus, the M510 stops assisting completely at about 120 cadence, which can suck sometimes. However, like all these things, you adjust. On some climbs I'm faster on the M510, on others, the Bosch. In the scheme of things, they're pretty close.

I saw the post in the M560 thread. It's pretty pointless. You know nothing about the test. Personally, there's no way I can see an M510 ridden similarly being 15% faster than the Bosch. We know nothing about rider effort, conditions, modes used, battery state at the start and end of the ride. Plus the GPS track is all over the place and the M510 ride is shown as shorter - so not exactly accurate ride recording.

My M510 has continued to get quieter. It's now a lot quieter than the Bosch, though they both have "rattle" when descending hard due to how they're designed to reduce drag.

I'm sure you'll like it and won't be disappointed.

What can you say about resistance of M510 when riding withou e-support? Does it occur?
CX gen4 is totally devoid of resistance from the motor.

 

[Zimmerframe]

What can you say about resistance of M510 when riding withou e-support? Does it occur?
CX gen4 is totally devoid of resistance from the motor.

Basically the same, negligible. Stick them both on a stand with no chain and they feel the same. Resistance is normally tyres/bike weight and the sudden loss of assistance and having to do it all yourself.

The only difference is that with the bosch is it tapers off the assistance over the last 1.5 to 2 kph slightly, so the cut off isn't so much like hitting a wall, it sort of eases it off - whereas the M510 just stops assisting.

 

[Martin (Mallorca Guiding)]

so, for anyone who was looking in on my questions about getting this chainguard to work, I eventually got it to fit.. but I had to remove the 38T chainring.. as they won't work without rubbing rerally bad on the rear of the chainring if you try it!! So I changed out and put my 32T ring back on and changed the cassette back to a 11/42. Having not properly tested it yet, it worked perfectly on the bike stand in workshop....Pity cannot get the 38T ring to work with a chain guide... as I tend to need more bite... maybe I'll buy a 36T and see how that goes! But I was out on bike today with the 38T chainring and the 11/52 cassette and the chain dropped 12 times!! stuff that!! So obviously can't live with that... The tracks here are all very very rocky!! thanks for anyone who contributed, cheers

 

[bart594]

Hi,

i have bought new controller but i have error 08 now on display...
After motor poition calibration error will go away ? Or simply the new board is faulty ?
As far i know on the controller we have IC and it simply reads magnet position on the motor shaft.
I'm asking because i don't know if it makes sense to invest more money in buying besst tool or i should simply return the controller as faulty

 

[patdam]

Hi,

i have bought new controller but i have error 08 now on display...
After motor poition calibration error will go away ? Or simply the new board is faulty ?
As far i know on the controller we have IC and it simply reads magnet position on the motor shaft.
I'm asking because i don't know if it makes sense to invest more money in buying besst tool or i should simply return the controller as faulty

View attachment 141078

View attachment 141077

The dealer of your controller haven't said you that position sensor calibration is mandatory when you replace the controller ? Other possibility, you make a mistake with the connectors, 2 are the same, have you identified it before dismantle ?

 

[ccrdave]

You need to calibrate the new controller thats the error i got before calibration

 

[bart594]

Motor calibrated.
No need to buy besst tool for that ;-)
Only simple interface: esp32 + mcp2515 with arduino script and canhacker as software

Hi,

i have bought new controller but i have error 08 now on display...
After motor poition calibration error will go away ? Or simply the new board is faulty ?
As far i know on the controller we have IC and it simply reads magnet position on the motor shaft.
I'm asking because i don't know if it makes sense to invest more money in buying besst tool or i should simply return the controller as faulty

 

[iscander13]

Motor calibrated.
No need to buy besst tool for that ;-)
Only simple interface: esp32 + mcp2515 with arduino script and canhacker as software

View attachment 141207
View attachment 141205 View attachment 141206

DIY level is at its highest

 

[MrFixit]

Thanks for replying, I will do as suggested - when it stops raining!

Hi,
Due to illness etc, I have not been able to look at this but I have done so now. I cannot use the Go app on my iPhone 11, it does not pick up the bluetooth signal from the display unit - which is a DPC245 V2, so I cannot check the torque sensor feed. The bike worked during a 50k ride but there were surges in all levels. I was 3k into another ride when the bike stopped and I got an error 05 message - which is related to a throttle - I don't have a throttle fitted and never have had one on the bike. I rode the bike for another 20k - unassisted, thinking the bike may restart which it did now and again but the error 05 message returned. So I thought I may have an issue with the new torque sensor so I put another new torque sensor on (my mate had a spare). I recalibrated the motors and made sure the assist levels were not set to zero but the 05 error message still came up. This next bit describes something very strange; when I ride the bike, the 05 error message goes away & I get some support but only over a very short distance (less than 50 meters) then the support gradually dissipates - but if I take my feet off the pedals the motor picks up and propels the bike forwards, the motor continues to operate if any of the support levels are selected but only if there is no pressure on the pedals. I have no idea what is going on. Can anyone make sense of this?

Cheers

 

[Waynemarlow]

Check your speed sensor is working correctly and / or the clearnance distance you have to the magnet, you need at a minimum about 10mm clearance and the centre of the magnet is positioned not where the attaching bolt section is, but about 1/2 way along that outer section that leads to the entry point of the connecting wire.

 

[JamesGrant]

Not sure if anyone can help/advise?
I have a Vitus E-Mythique with a M510. I have just replaced the controller and I have a K1 flash.

It seems that the speed sensor isn't working as I'm getting an error 21. When it came to looking for a replacement, everywhere shows a 4 pin speed sensor where as mine is 8 pin. Now my theory is the controller is looking for a speed sensor on the 4 port purple connector, hence the error.

I've tried flashing the Vitus firmware but the bike isn't accepting it.

Can anyone offer any solutions/advice?

 

[MrFixit]

Check your speed sensor is working correctly and / or the clearnance distance you have to the magnet, you need at a minimum about 10mm clearance and the centre of the magnet is positioned not where the attaching bolt section is, but about 1/2 way along that outer section that leads to the entry point of the connecting wire.

Thanks Wayne, I have now replaced the controller with the original version 1, the motor works ok, but not as good as my mates who has a v2 controller on his bike. Anyway I guess it must have been a faulty controller, I have ordered another v2 controller. By the way, the magnet is centred correctly over the sensor and the clearance between the magnet and the sensor is about 7mm, I did have about 10mm clearance originally but that didn't seem to work very well.

Cheers

 

[Dado]

Not sure if anyone can help/advise?
I have a Vitus E-Mythique with a M510. I have just replaced the controller and I have a K1 flash.

It seems that the speed sensor isn't working as I'm getting an error 21. When it came to looking for a replacement, everywhere shows a 4 pin speed sensor where as mine is 8 pin. Now my theory is the controller is looking for a speed sensor on the 4 port purple connector, hence the error.

I've tried flashing the Vitus firmware but the bike isn't accepting it.

Can anyone offer any solutions/advice?

To sensor with 4pin connector you need a reduction. 4 pin to 8 pin cable.
You have more complicated case as I found out from your email description.

 

[MrFixit]

Thanks Wayne, I have now replaced the controller with the original version 1, the motor works ok, but not as good as my mates who has a v2 controller on his bike. Anyway I guess it must have been a faulty controller, I have ordered another v2 controller. By the way, the magnet is centred correctly over the sensor and the clearance between the magnet and the sensor is about 7mm, I did have about 10mm clearance originally but that didn't seem to work very well.

Cheers

V2 controller received and fitted. went out for a short ride in my local woods and all seems well. However I will have to replace a rusty bearing it's an odd size: 22x42x10, this is what is marked on the rubber seal: 60 / 22 - 10RS. I have looked at various uk sources and Green Bike Kit, but I cannot seem to find any. Alibaba and Ali Express have lots of bearings but I can't seem to find that size.

 

[azure]

Bearing 42x22x10 seems to be problematic to find... but if there is space for 2mm wider bearing you can buy 42x22x12. This bearing is available.

You've posted two dimensions: in mm and symbol 60/22-10RS - is this 10rs correct?
60/22 bearing means that its dimensions are: 44x22x12... (NOT 42x22x10) this 10 before RS I don't know what does it mean and cannot find in internet.

 

[MrFixit]

Bearing 42x22x10 seems to be problematic to find... but if there is space for 2mm wider bearing you can buy 42x22x12. This bearing is available.

You've posted two dimensions: in mm and symbol 60/22-10RS - is this 10rs correct?
60/22 bearing means that its dimensions are: 44x22x12... (NOT 42x22x10) this 10 before RS I don't know what does it mean and cannot find in internet.

Mmm, you’ve got me wondering if I have written down the wrong measurements for the bearing the 60/22-10RS is correct as marked on the rubber seal.

 

[azure]

I've finished building my bike, maybe I'll write more details in a separate topic, but what is worth writing in this topic is that the M510 is a really cool motor.
I set the power support in ECO mode to 10%, currently I have ridden 65km and used ~20% of the battery (840Wh).... I weigh 94kg, touring ride rather on flat terrain.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Does anyone know where to get the main motor gasket for the M510. Mine was so damaged I may as well replace it. The M600 motor gaskets on AliExpress and the likes are not the same as for the M510.

I can probably just use a gasket maker silicon but then that changes the over all width of the mounts and I would have to shim it to fit the frame spacing.

Thanks

 

[MrFixit]

I bought gasket paper and made my own gasket

 

[iscander13]

Does anyone know where to get the main motor gasket for the M510. Mine was so damaged I may as well replace it. The M600 motor gaskets on AliExpress and the likes are not the same as for the M510.

I can probably just use a gasket maker silicon but then that changes the over all width of the mounts and I would have to shim it to fit the frame spacing.

Thanks

I used the gasket from the M600 and where it didn't fit, I used silicone sealant. I don't think it's a good idea to use only sealant. Condensation builds up inside the motor and the gasket is made of paper or something like that.

UPD. But in general - you can probably xerocopy the 1-1 motor cover and cut your gasket out of paper.

 

[guashh]

Hello everyone, I have bought an m510 36w f2.1. I'm waiting for chili to send it to me! I am going to upgrade my berria mako HP7 from m500 to m510. Eager to learn with you. I have best tool

 

[Slaine]

Hello everyone, I have bought an m510 36w f2.1. I'm waiting for chili to send it to me! I am going to upgrade my berria mako HP7 from m500 to m510. Eager to learn with you. I have best tool

Hello welcome to M510 family, what is the update on 2.1?