Help getting maximum mileage tomorrow.

[Bagpu55]

Hello, every year I do a Solstice ride with some mates which is an all day epic on standard bikes. Tomorrow I have to cut it short as have something on so was thinking of taking the eSommet (1 battery only). On the route planner its looking like 40 miles and 5300ft. If I:
1 use eco low (never used that before) just left it in eco high previously so not sure of the difference in output (although I find eco high a bit too much support)
2 regularly switch off on the flats/downs
Is the experience going to be worthwhile or a nightmare. Im quite fit but dont want to pedal 22kgs for 10 miles with no battery as the idea is to get home in timely fashion.
3 was there any consensus in low rpm vs 90rpm in saving battery?

What do you think, Doable or dig out my acoustic?

 

[steve_sordy]

I do not ride regularly whilst trying to reduce power consumption, but when I have done so I have noticed the following.

Stay out of Boost whatever you do. (Following some guys half my age up a steep hill nearly ran me out of juice).
Ride slowly up hills, pretend you are following an 11-year old. (which I was when I noticed how much range I had left)
Leave as much kit behind as possible. (Do you really need that folding saw?)

I keep an eye on the moving power consumption icon. If I change to an easier gear and pedal a little faster the power consumed goes down.

Note: I never actually switch off the motor, instead I move through the modes until I get to "off". You are not drawing any more power than that required to power the screen, but the motor is available in an instant rather than 10-15 seconds (or however long it takes to boot up the whole system).

 

[Bagpu55]

Won't be going any where near boost. I'm riding with mates on standard bikes for half of the route so can take it really steady. Yes I will switch modes to off and not turn off the motor. Packing light is a good idea

 

[R120]

I would say touch and go, its more the elevation that the distance that will be killing the battery. Defitely turn off the assitance on the flat, maybe just save it for the climbs.

 

[Gary]

Tyres

If you're running agressive soft compound dual ply tyres, fitting fast low rolling resistance tyres can save you as much as 80W for the entire ride.
tubeless and single ply also saves watts

IME a cadence of around 60rpm in Eco (even HIGH) and staying at normal bike climbing speed will give you an extra 1000ft elevation range

I'd take a normal bike though. They're just nicer.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I'd also quickly install stunlocker and edit your eco setting. Even on low it's still quite high, especially if you're riding with normal bikes. With stunlocker you can drop it lower in 5% increments rather than low medium high. You can drop the torque off too so using even less power.

 

[Bagpu55]

Tyres

If you're running agressive soft compound dual ply tyres, fitting fast low rolling resistance tyres can save you as much as 80W for the entire ride.
tubeless and single ply also saves watts

IME a cadence of around 60rpm in Eco (even HIGH) and staying at normal bike climbing speed will give you an extra 1000ft elevation range

I'd take a normal bike though. They're just nicer.

Unfortunately I have the asegai tyres ?? that are anchors. Tubeless and put 30psi in rear, 25 front. Argh you got me thinking.

 

[Gary]

I run single ply dual compound DHF and SS rear all year round on mine as I hate how a DH tyre feels on the flat (yes, even with a motor) and run 32psi front, 40psi rear... they roll TONS faster than your Assguys.
But even those aren't hugely low rolling resistance compared to a fast rolling XC or 4X/pumptrack tyre
a single DH casing Maxxis 3Cmaxgrip tyre with tube at 25psi will be giving away over 70w to rolling resistance, a fast light XC tyre set-up at 45psi tubeless can be as low as 15w
that's 110w more the motor is having to output the whole ride

 

[Bagpu55]

I run single ply dual compound DHF and SS rear all year round on mine as I hate how a DH tyre feels on the flat (yes, even with a motor) and run 32psi front, 40psi rear... they roll TONS faster than your Assguys.
But even those aren't hugely low rolling resistance compared to a fast rolling XC or 4X/pumptrack tyre
a single DH casing Maxxis 3Cmaxgrip tyre with tube at 25psi will be giving away over 70w to rolling resistance, a fast light XC tyre set-up at 45psi tubeless can be as low as 15w
that's 110w more the motor is having to output the whole ride

Haha assguys love it. I will ride them till they die and get something much lighter. I'm normally fine with an exo casing. More air required then

 

[Gary]

They'll still roll pretty badly (lots of rolling resistance) if they're MAXXGRIP compound, but yeah.

 

[Bagpu55]

Well I did it. 45.78 miles 4373ft AND i just dropped to 2 bars showing when home having overtaken 2 roadies up a hill in boost. I had to cut a thousand feet off and adjust my route as I waited an hour for a pannini at lunch so lost a load of time and had to be home. What I can say (for me);

Eco Low is MINIMAL power just a smidge to cover the weight of the bike. I was riding the same pace as my friends on acoustics and equally suffering up the hills, it was hard work (almost too low).

You can cover a fair distance comfortably with the motor off.

Eco medium felt like x3 the power of low (my mates were gutted when I switched to this after lunch, it felt like a ferrari).

Really surprised how far you can go, given the inclination and effort.

Aching today