IIRC that'll be a DT 350 or 380 hub.
HG, Microspline and XD Freehubs are available for those.
HG, Microspline and XD Freehubs are available for those.
Had new idea to optimize wear of the cassette.
- Thread starter yatayata
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #32
Thx, but I didn’t get what is IIRC… I think my own is the 370
IIRC = If I Remember Correctly.
But I should probably have proof read my reply before poating as I meant to type 370 not 380
But I should probably have proof read my reply before poating as I meant to type 370 not 380
IIRC = If I Remember Correctly.
But I should probably have proof read my reply before poating as I meant to type 370 not 380
You should of proof read this one too. I think you spelt potatoeing wrong
KLumzy Fums
Yes. Most decent quality hubs have the option of an HG Freehub. Swapping them is generally a fairly straightforward process.
- Thread starter
- #38
Ciao, i finally think your idea to go with 10 gears cassette is the best solution to obtain gear ratio i'm searching, i found the conversion kit we was talking, but i still don't understand if i will be able to install road cassette on it... Upgrade Kit Ratchet LN for Freehub
That isn't a replacement Freehub.
Just replacement ratchet mechanism for the Freehub.
10spd shimano HG cassettes are a the same. Road or mtb.
On my Emtb I run one wheelset with a 11-25 for road commuting and another with 11-36 for off road.
Same mech n shifter set up.
Tiagra/deore cassettes shift brilliantly are light, durable and really cheap.
Better shifting than top end 12spd, Lighter and MOAR durable.
In cycling. With regards to parts and kit. Most expensive or newest rarely means its actually the best choice for the individual or even the best performance for their purpose.
Just replacement ratchet mechanism for the Freehub.
10spd shimano HG cassettes are a the same. Road or mtb.
On my Emtb I run one wheelset with a 11-25 for road commuting and another with 11-36 for off road.
Same mech n shifter set up.
Tiagra/deore cassettes shift brilliantly are light, durable and really cheap.
Better shifting than top end 12spd, Lighter and MOAR durable.
In cycling. With regards to parts and kit. Most expensive or newest rarely means its actually the best choice for the individual or even the best performance for their purpose.
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Ordinary Human Male
New Member
Might be worth looking at whether your derailleur 'b screw' is wound in too far too.
A lower jockey wheel that's closer to the cogs will have better chain wrap which will avoid placing unnecessary stress on certain cog teeth and reduce risk of chain skipping (wear). You obvs don't want the derailleur to jam on the cogs either, but imo shops/distributers often wind it in way more than necessary.
A lower jockey wheel that's closer to the cogs will have better chain wrap which will avoid placing unnecessary stress on certain cog teeth and reduce risk of chain skipping (wear). You obvs don't want the derailleur to jam on the cogs either, but imo shops/distributers often wind it in way more than necessary.
- Thread starter
- #41
Thx Gary, i was taking wrong product.
- Thread starter
- #42
I'd like to try to maintein my 12v xt deralleiur but i don't know if only close the screw i will be able to go with 10V, anyone do it?
I swapped my Eagle NX for a 11 speed SRAM 11-36 (to get closer ratios). Although I had to go to a 11 speed shifter and derailleur they are still SRAM MTB items and work perfectly. What didn't work perfectly was the cassette is a road part and I had to take 1.85 mm off the back of it to fit the MTB freehub. Mixing and matching components can have all sorts of surprises!
- Thread starter
- #44
Ok thx, probably i have to do the same things, how did you take 1,85mm?I swapped my Eagle NX for a 11 speed SRAM 11-36 (to get closer ratios). Although I had to go to a 11 speed shifter and derailleur they are still SRAM MTB items and work perfectly. What didn't work perfectly was the cassette is a road part and I had to take 1.85 mm off the back of it to fit the MTB freehub. Mixing and matching components can have all sorts of surprises!
- Thread starter
- #45
What if i try to install this 12 sprockets from Sram with XDR HUB?? The gear ratio is perfect 10-36 !!! https://www.gambacicli.com/it/sram-...x961DP4C5Osnos2IlZmJa3gyL172gzQxoCwZUQAvD_BwE
I bought the cassette not knowing there was a difference between MTB and Road, my old 9 speed MTB has had road cassettes for many years. When I went to put on the lock ring it was obvious it would not engage the threads, not even close. I measured 2 mm then found on the web that it was 1.85 mm.
The reason is because the smaller large cog of a road cassette may foul the spokes if it is too close to the hub, MTB cogs are usually large enough that this is not an issue. How small can we go? I don't know.
I chucked the spider portion in a lathe and turned off 1.85 mm to a bit more than the diameter of the freehub and assembled the cassette, it all fit this time.
The reason is because the smaller large cog of a road cassette may foul the spokes if it is too close to the hub, MTB cogs are usually large enough that this is not an issue. How small can we go? I don't know.
I chucked the spider portion in a lathe and turned off 1.85 mm to a bit more than the diameter of the freehub and assembled the cassette, it all fit this time.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thx, so you remove material?I bought the cassette not knowing there was a difference between MTB and Road, my old 9 speed MTB has had road cassettes for many years. When I went to put on the lock ring it was obvious it would not engage the threads, not even close. I measured 2 mm then found on the web that it was 1.85 mm.
The reason is because the smaller large cog of a road cassette may foul the spokes if it is too close to the hub, MTB cogs are usually large enough that this is not an issue. How small can we go? I don't know.
I chucked the spider portion in a lathe and turned off 1.85 mm to a bit more than the diameter of the freehub and assembled the cassette, it all fit this time.
Tedgar
Member
I live in no-hills Florida. I made my DH bike a single speed mainly to shave weight as I travel on planes to DH parks. I am considering running the DH 7 speed drivetrain on my Levo as I never use the big cogs here. It is 11 speed chain and spacing but only 7 speeds. The cassettes are super cheap to buy. Looks like a road bike cassette.
Longevity.... I have run 3 chains and rotate them since day 1. This works good.
Longevity.... I have run 3 chains and rotate them since day 1. This works good.
Manc44
Member
I ended up back on 9-Speed, with a cassette with 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23 and a triple chainset (lowest gear is 24x23). In terms of always having the right gear, it's amazing. 9-Speed cassettes with those sprockets are hard to find though (the 6500 is about the only one left on sale and its not cheap).
Recently I got paranoid about the motor/battery letting me down and being stuck with no low gears, so I went back to my MTB cassette (11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32) but I'm kinda regretting it with the gaps in gearing. Again this is a rare sprocket combo that only exists on the cheap Altus CS-HG200-9 but it does seem like quite a hard wearing cassette. These cassettes used to be £12 a few years back but since bike parts doubled (and more) in price, now this bottom of the barrel "cheap" cassette is about £30.
The problem with a motor on the flat is, you're going at a set speed and if the right gear doesn't exist at that specific speed, then you're always pedalling too slow or too fast. This just doesn't apply if there's no motor, because you tend to pedal to match the terrain but with a motor, it's a set speed.
Recently I got paranoid about the motor/battery letting me down and being stuck with no low gears, so I went back to my MTB cassette (11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32) but I'm kinda regretting it with the gaps in gearing. Again this is a rare sprocket combo that only exists on the cheap Altus CS-HG200-9 but it does seem like quite a hard wearing cassette. These cassettes used to be £12 a few years back but since bike parts doubled (and more) in price, now this bottom of the barrel "cheap" cassette is about £30.
The problem with a motor on the flat is, you're going at a set speed and if the right gear doesn't exist at that specific speed, then you're always pedalling too slow or too fast. This just doesn't apply if there's no motor, because you tend to pedal to match the terrain but with a motor, it's a set speed.
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- Thread starter
- #52
Which motor do you have?
Yep. The diameter is not critical but the flatness is or we have a wobbly cassette. A mill with a rotary table would do a nice job too.
We see things differently. I use a 36 front, with a 10S 11/46 i never use my 11t.
So in 8 shifts i cover plenty of range 13/46.
12 S is marketing, it is not needed.
Well if you think using 9T on an Ebike we realy see things differently
- Thread starter
- #55
Ciao, actually i have 34 chainring and of course this affect all my 12 sprockets. I choose to get a bargain deal to get the focus thron 2 6.9 version second hand not only for the shimano drivetrain but for the better sospensions and brakes… I can say I found 12v on it for free and I found Xt derailleur works very nice… let’s start to think about 13 rear with 36 give you a slightly harder gear, but you have to look also which cadence you can mantein and which speed are you able to reach. Also your weight, your level of fitness and even smaller things like the measure of your cranks could give you differents results and sensations. I think this is the most beautiful part of cycling.
10x34 is a much higher gear than 13x36
11x36 is much closer. And unless you're very poor at spinning should allow you to reach around 30mph.
11x36 is much closer. And unless you're very poor at spinning should allow you to reach around 30mph.
- Thread starter
- #57
I know it Gary, the fact is I am able to push even more that 10x34… and When I’m not I’m searching for more close gear ratio in the last part of the cassette…. Which is the part I stay more, even on the hills.
I doubt you're pinging around singletrack pedalling at 30mph. So up your cadence.
It's free
It's free
- Thread starter
- #59
singletrack is crazy
never said i’m able to do it. I’m talking when I’m commuting to work on asphalt.And with 90 rpm I reach only 24mph with 34x10.
When I started cycling with road frame I was much incline to spinning higher rpm but I learned how to control myself and stay on 90 wich is better in my opinion.
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Yeah. 90rpm isn't even vaguely high.
and TBF unless you're a Cat1 road racer or TT specialist you won't hold 24mph on a flat road on your own on a normal roadbike for very long either and if you're doing it with electric assistance you're clearly not doing it lawfully.
11x36 on 27.5x2.4 spins me upto 32mph but I'm not holding that for very long unless it's down an incline or drafting a truck/bus. Not because of cadence. I can reach a very high cadence and comfortably hold a higher cadence than most for extended periods. The reason faster speeds become difficult to hold is the increasingly high wattage required to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.
(assisted) road commuting I'll tend to cruise around 22-28mph in the 13 or 15t sprockets only increasing or decreasing gearing for longer or steeper hills or in slow moving traffic situations
My motor tapers off in assistance above a cadence of 120rpm so I've learned not to increase my cadence above that.
and TBF unless you're a Cat1 road racer or TT specialist you won't hold 24mph on a flat road on your own on a normal roadbike for very long either and if you're doing it with electric assistance you're clearly not doing it lawfully.
11x36 on 27.5x2.4 spins me upto 32mph but I'm not holding that for very long unless it's down an incline or drafting a truck/bus. Not because of cadence. I can reach a very high cadence and comfortably hold a higher cadence than most for extended periods. The reason faster speeds become difficult to hold is the increasingly high wattage required to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.
(assisted) road commuting I'll tend to cruise around 22-28mph in the 13 or 15t sprockets only increasing or decreasing gearing for longer or steeper hills or in slow moving traffic situations
My motor tapers off in assistance above a cadence of 120rpm so I've learned not to increase my cadence above that.
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