IIRC that'll be a DT 350 or 380 hub.
HG, Microspline and XD Freehubs are available for those.
HG, Microspline and XD Freehubs are available for those.
Thx, but I didn’t get what is IIRC… I think my own is the 370IIRC that'll be a DT 350 or 380 hub.
HG, Microspline and XD Freehubs are available for those.
IIRC = If I Remember Correctly.
But I should probably have proof read my reply before poating as I meant to type 370 not 380
Thx Gary, i was taking wrong product.That isn't a replacement Freehub.
Just replacement ratchet mechanism for the Freehub.
10spd shimano HG cassettes are a the same. Road or mtb.
On my Emtb I run one wheelset with a 11-25 for road commuting and another with 11-36 for off road.
Same mech n shifter set up.
Tiagra/deore cassettes shift brilliantly are light, durable and really cheap.
Better shifting than top end 12spd, Lighter and MOAR durable.
In cycling. With regards to parts and kit. Most expensive or newest rarely means its actually the best choice for the individual or even the best performance for their purpose.
I'd like to try to maintein my 12v xt deralleiur but i don't know if only close the screw i will be able to go with 10V, anyone do it?Might be worth looking at whether your derailleur 'b screw' is wound in too far too.
A lower jockey wheel that's closer to the cogs will have better chain wrap which will avoid placing unnecessary stress on certain cog teeth and reduce risk of chain skipping (wear). You obvs don't want the derailleur to jam on the cogs either, but imo shops/distributers often wind it in way more than necessary.
Ok thx, probably i have to do the same things, how did you take 1,85mm?I swapped my Eagle NX for a 11 speed SRAM 11-36 (to get closer ratios). Although I had to go to a 11 speed shifter and derailleur they are still SRAM MTB items and work perfectly. What didn't work perfectly was the cassette is a road part and I had to take 1.85 mm off the back of it to fit the MTB freehub. Mixing and matching components can have all sorts of surprises!
It ain't easy.Ok thx, probably i have to do the same things, how did you take 1,85mm?
Thx, so you remove material?I bought the cassette not knowing there was a difference between MTB and Road, my old 9 speed MTB has had road cassettes for many years. When I went to put on the lock ring it was obvious it would not engage the threads, not even close. I measured 2 mm then found on the web that it was 1.85 mm.
The reason is because the smaller large cog of a road cassette may foul the spokes if it is too close to the hub, MTB cogs are usually large enough that this is not an issue. How small can we go? I don't know.
I chucked the spider portion in a lathe and turned off 1.85 mm to a bit more than the diameter of the freehub and assembled the cassette, it all fit this time.
Which motor do you have?I ended up back on 9-Speed, with a cassette with 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23 and a triple chainset (lowest gear is 24x23). In terms of always having the right gear, it's amazing. 9-Speed cassettes with those sprockets are hard to find though (the 6500 is about the only one left on sale and its not cheap).
Recently I got paranoid about the motor/battery letting me down and being stuck with no low gears, so I went back to my MTB cassette (11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32) but I'm kinda regretting it with the gaps in gearing. Again this is a rare sprocket combo that only exists on the cheap Altus CS-HG200-9 but it does seem like quite a hard wearing cassette. These cassettes used to be £12 a few years back but since bike parts doubled (and more) in price, now this bottom of the barrel "cheap" cassette is about £30.
The problem with a motor on the flat is, you're going at a set speed and if the right gear doesn't exist at that specific speed, then you're always pedalling too slow or too fast. This just doesn't apply if there's no motor.
Yep. The diameter is not critical but the flatness is or we have a wobbly cassette. A mill with a rotary table would do a nice job too.Thx, so you remove material?
We see things differently. I use a 36 front, with a 10S 11/46 i never use my 11t.Hi to everybody, i'm new on this forum and would like to thx you for the usefull informations i found.
I also would like to share some thoughts about wear of the cassette on e-bikes.
Actually i run bosch gen4 with 34 chainring and slx 10-51 cassette with boost hub, i pedal only in eco-tour pushing 200 w mid usually keeping 90 rpm.
Of course depends on the steepness of the hills but i found my self most of the times on the last part of the cassette. I know i can change only single sprockets but my goal is to otpimize chainline making my gears harder and maybe also changing chainline of the chainring with 55(for superboost hub) .
My intention is to go for a 36 chainring and 9-46(e-thirteen cassette) anyone tried this set up?
Do you think should i stay with 52 chainline because the gear ratio will be enough?.
Thx best regards.
Ciao, actually i have 34 chainring and of course this affect all my 12 sprockets. I choose to get a bargain deal to get the focus thron 2 6.9 version second hand not only for the shimano drivetrain but for the better sospensions and brakes… I can say I found 12v on it for free and I found Xt derailleur works very nice… let’s start to think about 13 rear with 36 give you a slightly harder gear, but you have to look also which cadence you can mantein and which speed are you able to reach. Also your weight, your level of fitness and even smaller things like the measure of your cranks could give you differents results and sensations. I think this is the most beautiful part of cycling.We see things differently. I use a 36 front, with a 10S 11/46 i never use my 11t.
So in 8 shifts i cover plenty of range 13/46.
12 S is marketing, it is not needed.
Well if you think using 9T on an Ebike we realy see things differently
I know it Gary, the fact is I am able to push even more that 10x34… and When I’m not I’m searching for more close gear ratio in the last part of the cassette…. Which is the part I stay more, even on the hills.10x34 is a much higher gear than 13x36
11x36 is much closer. And unless you're very poor at spinning should allow you to reach around 30mph.
singletrack is crazynever said i’m able to do it. I’m talking when I’m commuting to work on asphalt.I doubt you're pinging around singletrack pedalling at 30mph. So up your cadence.
It's free
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.