Had new idea to optimize wear of the cassette.

[Manc44]

Which motor do you have?

A rear hub. BFSWX02.

 

[yatayata]

A rear hub. BFSWX02.

did you know if you have sensor or torque? Could be that is not working properly, I had same issue with rear hub long time ago. I think if you switch with mid motor you could have better feelings

 

[Manc44]

did you know if you have sensor or torque? Could be that is not working properly, I had same issue with rear hub long time ago. I think if you switch with mid motor you could have better feelings

Sorry I think you might be getting me mixed up with someone else, my rear hub doesn't have any problems, I love it. I said I was paranoid about it not working, simply because of the (close ratio) gears I had on recently where I wouldn't get up hills without the motor. There's no problem with the hub.

The topic / cassette wear...
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this and they'd be incompatible with today's hubs and single ring fads, but if you go back far enough, the old 6 speed cassettes used to have reversible sprockets, so you could just turn them around if they started wearing too much, plus being 6 speed they were thicker as well.

 

[yatayata]

Sorry I think you might be getting me mixed up with someone else, my rear hub doesn't have any problems, I love it. I said I was paranoid about it not working, simply because of the (close ratio) gears I had on recently where I wouldn't get up hills without the motor. There's no problem with the hub.

The topic / cassette wear...
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this and they'd be incompatible with today's hubs and single ring fads, but if you go back far enough, the old 6 speed cassettes used to have reversible sprockets, so you could just turn them around if they started wearing too much, plus being 6 speed they were thicker as well.

Ok I got it. So funny because we talk a lot about possibility to reduce sprockets and before I didn’t imagine we can have so many choices. Anyway I’d like to mantein a decent number of gears…

 

[yatayata]

Yeah. 90rpm isn't even vaguely high.

and TBF unless you're a Cat1 road racer or TT specialist you won't hold 24mph on a flat road on your own on a normal roadbike for very long either and if you're doing it with electric assistance you're clearly not doing it lawfully.

11x36 on 27.5x2.4 spins me upto 32mph but I'm not holding that for very long unless it's down an incline or drafting a truck/bus. Not because of cadence. I can reach a very high cadence and comfortably hold a higher cadence than most for extended periods. The reason faster speeds become difficult to hold is the increasingly high wattage required to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.
(assisted) road commuting I'll tend to cruise around 22-28mph in the 13 or 15t sprockets only increasing or decreasing gearing for longer or steeper hills or in slow moving traffic situations
My motor tapers off in assistance above a cadence of 120rpm so I've learned not to increase my cadence above that.

Ciao Gary, you make me smile all the times!! I'm 32 now but in past i did some races, probably without doing what you call cat1. I don't think i need to be a world champion to push 34x10 because with road bikes i was pushing much harder gears and i never won anything. You should understand you're not me, probably we have different levels of fitness, different bikes, different components, different tires(29x2,40), pressions and thread pattern(speedgrip). At 120 rpm my and your engine could Still support us but in my opinion is much Better stay in the range 90-100. When i'm cruising at high speed i assume aero position, i'm focus on keeping my cadence and my heart controlled to certain values to keep my performance high but also not overstrain me. On flat and Downhill maybe i can push the 10 for longer than you , but even if this could be true or not you could live in peace easy! For me Is not a race with others, is always a race againts myself. Happy cycling

 

[Gary]

Agreed bro

 

[Gary]

Obviously I get that we're all different
But... Having said that. Raising your cadence to the 100-120rpm range will lower load AND use larger sprockets for the same speed. And thus reduce drivetrain wear. The wider a comfortable cadence range you have will also reduce the number of gear shifts required per ride also increasing the life of your drivetrain.
A faster cadence at the same speed (so less human torque output) should achieve a lower HR too.
There was me thinking optimizing drivetrain wear was the whole point of the thread. Silly me
Forums are mainly about spending money on new stuff whether needed or not though.
And guess what? all the above strategies I've mentioned are 100% free.

Nothing to see here!