Experiment home-brew hot wax vs commercial hot wax

[Emteebee]

For those interested in experiments with home-brew hot wax, here's some trial and error experiences. Yes, long story but thorough. This experiment is done on my commute Ebike, for that one I have the most results, since I only purchased an eMTB just weeks ago.
Reason why I started with home-brew is I just wanted to try, hobby, fun, I thought I could brew something just as good for less $$. Up front: sorry for talking in kilometers, I'm Dutch.

The short story for the inpatients is: (1.) I was wrong. (2.) The wax base is the most crucial part of the mix. (3.) That means the additives are less crucial, although that is hard to backup without proper research.

I went Amazon, bought paraffine candle wax (Materialix <0.5% oil), used 500gr. For additive I used Wolfblood Racing chain cycle additive of 60gr PTFE / WS2. In the end, this saved me around 10 EUR. Looking back, not really worth the saving. The mixture of wax and additive was pretty black, I could hardly see the chain when it was dipped in the wax. To me this indicated the level of WS2 was pretty high. (Comparing to Silca, this looks more transparent, I can see the chain). However, I have no specs on the Wolfblood Racing WS2 powder, it seems it's important to have nano-scale WS2 particles that are able to fill / match the nano-sized surface scratches of the chain metal. So maybe this made it less affective, who knows.

Used the home-brew on multiple bikes, with the most kms on a Kalkhoff Ebike to commute, 10sp Shimano Deore chain CN-LG500 and cassette HG500 11-34. I ride dry/wet roads, 40 kms per day, 14x stop and go, use almost all gears to ramp up, always on "power" mode (1 step away from max).
I noticed the chain not being fully clean on standard paraffine wax, it left a thin film of darkish residue and some flakes and crap building up between the cogs, although not as sticky as Squirt does. The paraffine also looks shiny, feels slippery, not sticky but one can tell there is some level of oil present.

After 2700 kms (1677 miles) I switched to Silca Hot wax. The grain looks and feels absolutely dry. Silca claims they use a blend of wax. And this is the power to my opinion. A good food-grade paraffine wax may be a good basis, but there's more to wax than just paraffine. Now, they are silent on what other wax types they use, but I suspect, based on the specs, they also use microcristaline wax. Google around, it's finer in its crystal structure, more resistant to puncture, more viscous. That's all guesswork but in the end, on the chain, it's very clean, my cassette and chain look "shiny", no remaining film, and build-up of wax leftovers.

Now the effects on wear. I started home-brew on 2 brand new chains and cassette. Unfortunately I started taking measurements only after I started using Silca, so I only know 2 things of my home-brew: 0% wear at 0kms, and the wear after 2700kms, so don't know how linear the wear progressed. I measure the wear every 150-200kms when I re-wax the chain with a KMC digital chain checker. Once a chain has 0,02mm more wear than the other, I swap chains until it shows 0,02 more wear than the other and so on. This way I get an even, gradual wear on the cassette over lifetime of the cassette. I do see a difference in wear/km so that's why I swap chain based on wear, not on miles.

2700 kms home-brew, and 2700 kms of Silca = 5400 kms in total (3355 miles).
Current state of the chains: 0.25% - 0.28% wear. Only half-way the wear limit !

But.
What is interesting: home-brew caused a wear from 0-2700 kms of 0.18% - 0.22%.
After that, on Silca, the next 2700 kms, the wear seemed to stabilize, or not increase at the same rate the home-brew did. See the wear data of both chains (k1 and k2) in the graph.

Conclusion: a good commercial hot wax outperforms my home-brew by far.
Let me be clear I have no interest in promoting any brand, go zerofrictioncycling and select a high performing hot wax of your choice. I choose Silca because of the performance based on ZFC independent testing.

*Image: chain wear of k1 and k2 chains. Mind left, home-brew measured wear is only 1 point of measure taken at 2700 kms total (k1 1400kms + k2 1300kms), and assuming 0km equals 0% wear.

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

It's meaningless unless you tell us how you clean your chains. And also meaningless if the wax cost after X miles/km is greater than just buying a new chain.

 

[Emteebee]

It's meaningless unless you tell us how you clean your chains. And also meaningless if the wax cost after X miles/km is greater than just buying a new chain.

The topic here is to demonstrate the difference between a regular paraffine candle wax with additives and a commercial wax, and the gains of the additional 10 EUR in my case. I think the data proves this is worthwhile.

But since you asked, one of the 2 main reasons why people move from drip waxes to hot melt is drivetrain efficiency, and/or costs. Independent testing has shown that hot melt wax has by far the lowest cost/mile/km. Feel free to take a look at the cost to run data at Zerofrictioncycling. Which method is least expensive is no discussion, the evidence is already there! If you think differently, prove otherwise.

...If you have 1 single chain, and ride a 1000 km a year, the investment might not be worth it, I'll give that away.

In my case, when I bought the bike I wanted to see how things went on Squirt and I completely worn a chain, cassette and chainring in 2500km to the bone, until it started showing shifting problems. By then, we are far over the 0.5% wear mark. Now with a new set on hot wax, by extrapolating the amount of chains needed on Squirt to reach the same kms, and the same cassette / chainring wear, I’d need 5 chains instead of 2. Basically I have not enough data / miles driven to have a full case and comparison to show. My experience so far, and what I can estimate is that it is very beneficial for me (chains and hot wax cost: 63EUR, chains and Squirt wax cost: 106EUR to date, and still gaining compared to Squirt. But again that is not what this topic is about, and ZFC has the data, and even a cost to run calculator for yourselves to do the math.

Regarding cleaning, initial cleaning is no different between drip and hot wax so same cost. Mineral turps and methylated spirits. Since more chains on drip wax are needed, more costs for cleaning, which will compensate the higher costs of wax. When in use no extra cleaning costs on hot wax: hot waxed chain goes directly in pot, I use 2 pot system (see ZFC). If a full clean is needed after very wet and muddy ride, chain goes into boiling water for cleaning and next in hot wax. However, with 2 pots this is also not needed.

The key point in saving $ is the whole approach, even on drip lubes a lot of people can save money by (1) proper degreasing, (2) replace chain in time at or before 0.5% wear mark. By the time most chains see a manual chain checker falling in, most people are already too late. Re-applying drip wax without a full clean also doesn’t help, think about how that wax is going to reach the pin/inner link point of wear when there’s old wax blocking the path. ZFC has loads of YouTube instructions on chain maintenance, check it out.

Most of all, choose whatever works for you. If you don’t like the hassle of removing chains for hot waxing, stay with drip, there’s a few great drip waxes out there. Even if costs would be equal or a somewhat higher, I' hot wax because of the cleanliness of the drivetrain, nothing sticks, no mess buildup.

Regarding investment: I bought 2 slow cookers via Marktplaats (Dutch 2nd hand site), 1 new, 1 used. Each cost me 7,50EUR.

Interested in other’s experiences in one vs another lubrication method, what are yours Amber Valley Guy? Then it might turn unto a meaningFULL discussion after all.

 

[Jackware]

How about beeswax, a natural product derived from honeycombs, has long been used for various purposes, from candles to furniture polish. In recent years, it has also gained popularity as a lubricant for bicycle chains. This article delves into the reasons behind this trend, the benefits of using beeswax, and the step-by-step process of applying it to your bicycle chain.
In an era where synthetic lubricants dominate the market, there is a growing interest in natural alternatives. Beeswax, with its unique properties, offers several advantages as a bicycle chain lubricant:
* Natural and Biodegradable: Beeswax is a natural product that breaks down easily in the environment, making it an eco-friendly choice.
* Long-lasting Lubrication: Unlike oil-based lubricants, which can attract dirt and grime, beeswax forms a protective film that repels contaminants and provides long-lasting lubrication.
* Quiet Operation: Beeswax can significantly reduce chain noise, making for a smoother and more enjoyable riding experience.
* Reduced Chain Wear: Proper lubrication is essential for minimizing chain wear. Beeswax can help prolong the life of your chain by reducing friction.
The Process of Applying Beeswax to Your Bicycle Chain
Applying beeswax to your bicycle chain is a relatively simple process, but it requires some preparation and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide:
* Clean the Chain Thoroughly: Before applying beeswax, it is crucial to clean your chain thoroughly to remove any dirt, grime, or old lubricant. You can use a chain cleaning solution and a chain cleaning brush for this purpose. Alternatively, you can disassemble the chain and clean it using a degreaser and a soft brush.
* Prepare the Beeswax: Beeswax is typically sold in blocks or pellets. To apply it to your chain, you will need to melt it down. You can do this using a double boiler method:
* Fill a saucepan with water and bring it to a simmer.
* Place a heat-resistant bowl in the saucepan, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water.
* Add the beeswax to the bowl and let it melt slowly.
* Apply the Beeswax: Once the beeswax has melted, you can apply it to the chain in one of two ways:
* Dip Method: Dip the cleaned chain into the melted beeswax, ensuring that all links are fully coated. Let the excess wax drip off before hanging the chain to dry.
* Brush Method: Use a clean paintbrush to apply the melted beeswax to each link of the chain, working your way around the chain. Ensure that all moving parts are well-coated.
* Allow the Beeswax to Dry: After applying the beeswax, let the chain dry completely. This can take several hours, depending on the thickness of the wax coating and the ambient temperature.
* Wipe Off Excess Wax: Once the wax has dried, use a clean cloth to wipe off any excess wax that may have accumulated on the chain or surrounding components.
Additional Tips for Using Beeswax
* Temperature Considerations: Beeswax has a relatively low melting point, so it may not be suitable for extremely hot or cold weather conditions. In very cold temperatures, the wax may become too stiff, while in very hot temperatures, it may melt excessively.
* Frequency of Application: The frequency of applying beeswax will depend on various factors, including riding conditions, weather, and personal preference. In general, you may need to reapply the wax every few weeks or after heavy riding in wet or muddy conditions.
* Combining with Other Lubricants: Some cyclists choose to combine beeswax with other lubricants, such as paraffin wax or synthetic oils, to create a hybrid lubricant that offers the benefits of both natural and synthetic products.
Conclusion
Beeswax offers a natural and effective alternative to traditional oil-based lubricants for bicycle chains. Its long-lasting lubrication, quiet operation, and environmental friendliness make it an attractive option for many cyclists. While it may require more frequent application than some synthetic lubricants, the benefits of using beeswax can make it a worthwhile choice for those who prioritize natural
and sustainable products.

 

[Emteebee]

How about beeswax, a natural product derived from honeycombs, has long been used for various purposes, from candles to furniture polish. In recent years, it has also gained popularity as a lubricant for bicycle chains. This article delves into the reasons behind this trend, the benefits of using beeswax, and the step-by-step process of applying it to your bicycle chain.
I

What are your experiences with beeswax so far? Is it solid enough to stay in place for 50-100kms and sticks well to the chain surface? My only concern with the recommended brush method is this won’t reach the inside of the chain where the lubrication is actually needed.

 

[Jackware]

It's ok if you keep reapplying, but the issue is getting it ready to use.
When you first harvest beeswax, it's loaded with bits of honey, pollen, and other hive stuff, so you have to melt it down and strain it, I use something like cheesecloth—to get it clean. Any moisture left in there can mess up its performance, so you’ve got to make sure it’s dry too. Once it’s pure, you heat it up and coat the chain just right. It’s a bit of a process, but worth it for a natural, eco-friendly lube. Smells good as well

 

[Emteebee]

Impression of how clean chain remains after 50km of medium dirt ride on hot melt wax:
At worst, some static dust sticks.

 

[Type1]

I hope you're spending more time riding your bike than waxing your chain

 

[Dax]

I hope you're spending more time riding your bike than waxing your nuts

FTFY

 

[Type1]

I'd understand the waxed nuts more