Crestline RS180 Skid Plate?

[Arethustra]

I’m still in the early stages of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) on a prototype but would anyone else be interested in something like this?

First versions will be heat-formed 1/4" Kydex possibly skinned with an aluminum plate bonded to the outside for extra protection.

If others are interested and I can get a pattern developed that will work without a bunch of fiddling, I will likely work with a prototyper to create a fully aluminum version but only if the $$$ makesense - not gonna speed $5K to make 3 of these things just for me (probably not lol )..

 

[RoJo]

Good idea. Definitely needs a bash guard.
Another approach is to find numbers then approach:

Can’t find a Rockguardz for your bike?

With so many bikes out there, it’s possible we don’t have one for your particular make and model. But don’t worry, we’d love to work with you to add your bike to our collection. If your bike is one…

rockguardz.com

 

[Arethustra]

Wasn’t super impressed with what they offered and I’m in the US which makes it super difficult to just being my bike by for a measurement but yeah, something like that combined with what these guys are doing plus something that deflects rocks away from the cooling fins.

I’ll have a kydex/alu prototype in a month or less and then I’ll talk to Troydon to be sure it won’t impact the warranty before I go any further down this path.

 

[RoJo]

You've given it a lot more thought than me, and it sounds like a good plan. From R/C car durability, plastic chassis seems to work well at taking huge impacts because it can bend and spring back. This is probably way outside the scope, but as someone who swaps batteries every ride I don't love the existing cover, perhaps a redesign of this to be more durable and accessible would be good. Probably going too far though as the first issue is just better protection against strikes - excellent handling and good BB height comes with a price!

 

[Arethustra]

I had considered doing a complete replacement of the plastic lower but it seemed easier to go the skid plate route which actually makes replacing the battery worse. Not sure how to make that issue better…how would you want it to work?

When I was looking at the full replacement approach I was getting stuck on materials; I wanted something that was tough and light (and not just plastic) - I really liked the idea of a cnc’d lower with a replaceable Delrin “skid plate” surface but that gets me back to making a $5k skid plate for myself.

 

[RoJo]

I had considered doing a complete replacement of the plastic lower but it seemed easier to go the skid plate route which actually makes replacing the battery worse. Not sure how to make that issue better…how would you want it to work?

When I was looking at the full replacement approach I was getting stuck on materials; I wanted something that was tough and light (and not just plastic) - I really liked the idea of a cnc’d lower with a replaceable Delrin “skid plate” surface but that gets me back to making a $5k skid plate for myself.

Yep, tough, and my thoughts aren't exactly helping as they add problems rather than provide solutions.
Maybe we should see if crestline can sell a 10 pack of the standard ones
At the moment mine is held on by one bolt and an Enduro strap. Looks ugly, but quicker for battery changes!

 

[Arethustra]

So for you something that hinges down (Internal hinge - probably a set pin) from the front, secured by a single "locking" bolt in the rear (where the back bolt is currently) would be better for quick switches? Maybe even some sort of captured screw/latch combo so you wouldn't even have to remove a screw - just twist the locking bolt to unlatch. How does something like that sound?

 

[RoJo]

So for you something that hinges down (Internal hinge - probably a set pin) from the front, secured by a single "locking" bolt in the rear (where the back bolt is currently) would be better for quick switches? Maybe even some sort of captured screw/latch combo so you wouldn't even have to remove a screw - just twist the locking bolt to unlatch. How does something like that sound?

Yeah, that does sound rather good!

 

[AlumiPro]

I’ve been interested, I've broken several Crestline plastic bash guards so far and have several new ones on standby. I’ve talked to Troydon about adding a stronger bash guard but he’s not sure it’s a wise idea to add the extra stress on the fastener inserts.(I agree) Plastic gives and/or breaks when impacted, while aluminum or stainless will not, but will transfer the impact through the attachment points. The rear mounting point is plenty strong IMO. But the front small fasteners into the carbon inserts could get damaged. I’d be interested in a stainless steel guard but NOT aluminum. (I have the ability to fabricate either) The jagged volcanic rock I encounter would dig/gouge into aluminum as a pose to sliding on stainless.
I’ve created a stainless steel bash ring for my Crestline that’s been working great! The 36T chainring hangs down just a little lower than the plastic guard and It would occasionally make contact with big rocks!

 

[AlumiPro]

This company makes some nice looking bash guards for many different bikes, but not for the Crestline.

 

[ant02496]

can confirm the inserts where the guard is mounted into the frame are weak.
I personally took them all out to test them, super frail. destroyed them easily with barely any force.

 

[Arethustra]

Hot outta the box from France…maybe the cure for what ails ya! I have yet to test it but the guy that makes and owns Amygos has all but bet me that I cannot break this. I still ordered two.

The build is super solid and the bashguard is lined with a 1/4” foam padding. He had done this as a one-off for another long time customer but wasn’t super happy with it so never listed it for sale. Troydon pointed me his way and after he fixed what he didn't like about the mold, he ran me one off. If this is as good as it looks, I’ll be recommending it rather than making something as it doesn’t stress the mounts because it only attaches with the straps and by being molded perfectly to shape.

I’m thinking of you @AlumiPro when I think “game on”. Also got the Zeb lower protectors from him.

 

[AlumiPro]

Hot outta the box from France…maybe the cure for what ails ya! I have yet to test it but the guy that makes and owns Amygos has all but bet me that I cannot break this. I’m thinking of you @AlumiPro what I think game on. Also got the Zeb lower protectors from him.

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Holy strap-on! That’s one hell of a strap-on you got there! I may give it a try!
Looks like the rear tire will do a good job of throwing mud into the back side of it though….I may trim that rear upward hook off.
I definitely need protection on my ZEB ( more than Ride Wrap) as I now have a dent/gauge in my damper side lower!….luckily it’s not indented enough to make contact with the stanchion as it cycles or effect performance.
I was interested in Amygos guard for an S-Works Levo I had in the past…..how do I contact Amygos for these parts?

 

[Arethustra]

LOL I wasn't a big fan of the straps-based attachment approach but when you think about the strength issues you will have with any inserts mounted in carbon, going another route to attach the bash guard to the bike makes a ton of sense.

As far as buying one, this is a bit like a “secret menu item” at restaurant - he doesn’t have it listed on the site so you go the “contact us” route and tell him that you want the “engine casing” protector for the Crestline. The page to contact him is here.

Tell him that you saw the ones that he had just done for Todd Eby (that’s me) and that I pointed you in his direction.

His name is Antoine, and he’s a one man show but is on top of his messages and is very responsive. He makes these to order so it’ll take a bit for it to get made up and shipping is from France so it takes a bit longer but he makes a good product from what I can see.

 

[Arethustra]

Holy strap-on! That’s one hell of a strap-on you got there! I may give it a try!
Looks like the rear tire will do a good job of throwing mud into the back side of it though….I may trim that rear upward hook off.
I definitely need protection on my ZEB ( more than Ride Wrap) as I now have a dent/gauge in my damper side lower!….luckily it’s not indented enough to make contact with the stanchion as it cycles or effect performance.
I was interested in Amygos guard for an S-Works Levo I had in the past…..how do I contact Amygos for these parts?

Based on what I can tell from playing around with the guard on the bike, I think the rear of it “floats” and then upon impact it conforms more tightly to the shape of the lower engine area and the gap space at the back is taken up as the guard slides over whatever it impacted. Its pretty clever but yes, there will be mud. I think you could trim it off but it would reduce the protection. The mud shouldn’t be that big of a problem since all you have to do is unstrap it to hose it off.

 

[AlumiPro]

LOL I wasn't a big fan of the straps-based attachment approach but when you think about the strength issues you will have with any inserts mounted in carbon, going another route to attach the bash guard to the bike makes a ton of sense.

As far as buying one, this is a bit like a “secret menu item” at restaurant - he doesn’t have it listed on the site so you go the “contact us” route and tell him that you want the “engine casing” protector for the Crestline. The page to contact him is here.

Tell him that you saw the ones that he had just done for Todd Eby (that’s me) and that I pointed you in his direction.

His name is Antoine, and he’s a one man show but is on top of his messages and is very responsive. He makes these to order so it’ll take a bit for it to get made up and shipping is from France so it takes a bit longer but he makes a good product from what I can see.

Looks to be thick material, I have no doubt it’s tuff and I agree the strap-around frame technique would be the best method especially when bolting directly to the motor housing isn’t feasible(at least not feasible on the non-drive side of the motor.) Nice to know having RideWrap will not allow the straps to rub the paint either. I noticed his website doesn’t have the motor or ZEB guards listed. Thanks for attaching the link to contact him, I will do so.
Since he works with “plastic” I wonder if he’d be up for making a larger rear mud guard that replaces the factory Crestline/Santa Cruz mini guard, which could fasted into the factory guard frame inserts?? VPP bikes really need a more “permanent” larger linkage/mud guard. Like my Tracer 279 comes with….

 

[Arethustra]

I was thinking the same thing but I’m also working on “hacking” together a mod for the Muckynutz rear fender. Its at a point where I need to get another new one and make the changes in a less destructive manner so I can see how the finished product looks. I went with an easy to remove approach vs a one that attaches to the frame inserts. Might not be what others want but I think it’s better than having to swap bolt on stuff when you don’t want/need a rear fender.

It’s not very pretty now as mods were done with a razor and heat gun but I can make the next prototype with a bit more care and it should be a decent solution.

 

[AlumiPro]

I was thinking the same thing but I’m also working on “hacking” together a mod for the Muckynutz rear fender. Its at a point where I need to get another new one and make the changes in a less destructive manner so I can see how the finished product looks. I went with an easy to remove approach vs a one that attaches to the frame inserts. Might not be what others want but I think it’s better than having to swap bolt on stuff when you don’t want/need a rear fender.

It’s not very pretty now as mods were done with a razor and heat gun but I can make the next prototype with a bit more care and it should be a decent solution.

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Yeah I did something similar for winter riding only, posted in

Crestline rear mudguard recommendation?​

I would just like coming that covers the VPP a bit better than the mini factory guard, to leave in place for year round riding.

 

[Arethustra]

Figured out that I had the guard incorrectly positioned. Once I adjusted the straps to get it to line up, the space in the back is now gone and the chainring is pretty much perfectly protected as are the cooling fins on the motor. Glad I messed with it a bit more as I’m now even more impressed.

 

[Arethustra]

One recommendation to anyone getting one of these (and I do recommend to everyone that you should get one so that you stop having to replace the plastic engine cover - Troydon designed them to break rather than have the inserts ripped out of the frame which is smart) is to add a bit more relief around the chainring as mine was pretty tight and I run a 32T. I took off about 1-2mm of the casing and then cleaned it up (sanding and polishing wheels) with a Dremel so that I had the fit I needed.

I would expect that this may be a necessary for others as this was created as a special request for a long time customer and the mold was made for his Crestline which is a sample size of one. Still, its pretty damn good considering its hand made.

 

[Arethustra]

UPDATE: One month in with the Amygo bash guard and its going strong. No movement when riding; the molded shape and the straps prevent any movement. Haven’t had a “Hulk, go smash” moment with the bash guard yet but it’s hit a few smaller things with barely a scratch which is what I expected given how sturdy the build is.

Bottom line, if you’ve smashed a motor cover, you need one of these.