Levo Gen 3 Cascade Link 2022+ Levo Long Shock Kit

[BikeBert]

sure.... sometimes frame is just wrong...

This thread is specifically about Levo frame, nothing wrong about it. Coil shocks work great with Levo and Cascade linkages, ofc those that are set properly.

 

[ebikerider]

This thread is specifically about Levo frame, nothing wrong about it. Coil shocks work great with Levo and Cascade linkages, ofc those that are set properly.

Given the high initial leverage rates at this stage of my testing I think that air shocks work better on this frame with the long link. To get enough sag on a coil shock I don’t get the bottom out support that I need and when I up the spring rate to get that support sag is reduced to a level that grip is reduced in some situations and feedback is increased to an unacceptable level.

Air shock works very well as the air spring shape is so adjustable to suit and the high leverage rate overcomes the added stiction of air seals easily. I have another coil shock and another air shock to test but that’s my thoughts at this point.

 

[FirstAscent]

Given the high initial leverage rates at this stage of my testing I think that air shocks work better on this frame with the long link. To get enough sag on a coil shock I don’t get the bottom out support that I need and when I up the spring rate to get that support sag is reduced to a level that grip is reduced in some situations and feedback is increased to an unacceptable level.

Air shock works very well as the air spring shape is so adjustable to suit and the high leverage rate overcomes the added stiction of air seals easily. I have another coil shock and another air shock to test but that’s my thoughts at this point.

I agree with @BikeBert , it's still not an issue with the coil itself. if you're not getting the bottom out support needed, at the appropriate sag, then the issue is "simply" the damper tuning/settings. Increasing the spring rate is a bandaid with side effects as you mentioned.

 

[ebikerider]

I agree with @BikeBert , it's still not an issue with the coil itself. if you're not getting the bottom out support needed, at the appropriate sag, then the issue is "simply" the damper tuning/settings. Increasing the spring rate is a bandaid with side effects as you mentioned.

Measuring sag with feet on pedals and hands lightly on bars at 88kg on a 475 EXT spring (tuner initially recommended 500lb) I was getting 15mm or about 24% of sag. I was off the bottom out bumper easily and frequently at this spring rate. On the same sag with an air shock with its inherent ramp up I could happily run it even deeper into its sag and not experience many bottom outs. This was on a custom tuned coil shock from a well renowned tuner. Maybe the new tune that I'll get will change my mind.

 

[FirstAscent]

Measuring sag with feet on pedals and hands lightly on bars at 88kg on a 475 EXT spring (tuner initially recommended 500lb) I was getting 15mm or about 24% of sag. I was off the bottom out bumper easily and frequently at this spring rate. On the same sag with an air shock with its inherent ramp up I could happily run it even deeper into its sag and not experience many bottom outs. This was on a custom tuned coil shock from a well renowned tuner. Maybe the new tune that I'll get will change my mind.

I still think it’s an issue with the tune. Not to say your guy isn’t good as I’m sure he is, just sounds like it needs an adjustment. I bet he/she could make a tune adjustment if you explained you bed better bottom out control at the appropriate sag.

I’m not a custom tuner, I pay for custom shock tunes like you. I’m about to find it for myself if my new shock and tune is correct. It just arrived a couple days ago so need to install it and get done test rides in. I’ll be testing the E-Storia

Curious what your current and other coil shocks are?

 

[rzr]

Wrong. SAG is a starting point and should be set right. If you're bottoming out your damper, your settings are wrong or it needs proper valving. I'm 85kg and run 29% SAG on my TTX 22 with 502 lb/in spring. No bottoming out even on jumps and drops. Plush and compliant.

Can't agree....
this way, you can put any shock - not matching the suspension, like, linear spring to linear suspension, add A LOT of compression damping, just not to bottom out on every curb ....
doesn't mean it'll work well, even if you have 30% SAG.

 

[BikeBert]

Can't agree....
this way, you can put any shock - not matching the suspension, like, linear spring to linear suspension, add A LOT of compression damping, just not to bottom out on every curb ....
doesn't mean it'll work well, even if you have 30% SAG.

Let's not draw a long bow here.
Levo just like most Specialized frames is compatible with coil shock and with proper valving and setting it works perfectly. On the other hand, you can't just install off-the-shelf shock and expect stellar performance. For most of us mortals 30% SAG will just ride better. For DH World Cup pros settings might differ.

 

[pontoon]

Hey all,

I’m planning to get a new turbo levo comp carbon and put the long travel link so I can match the travel of my current bike (2016 nomad with fox 36 float rc2 and fox float x2 rear).

Can anyone please tell me what part numbers to buy for the non-coil fox float x2 and fox factory 36 or 38 fork? I’m torn between the 36 and 38 fork and open to advice. Leaning towards 38 because the s works uses it.

Any other forks/shocks I should look at? I’m leaning towards fox because I like the Kashima bling and I’m really happy with my Nomad’s ride quality.

Also will there be a step down from the head tube to the fork? I’m hoping the aftermarket fork will have a clean look on the bike.

 

[FirstAscent]

Hey all,

I’m planning to get a new turbo levo comp carbon and put the long travel link so I can match the travel of my current bike (2016 nomad with fox 36 float rc2 and fox float x2 rear).

Can anyone please tell me what part numbers to buy for the non-coil fox float x2 and fox factory 36 or 38 fork? I’m torn between the 36 and 38 fork and open to advice. Leaning towards 38 because the s works uses it.

Any other forks/shocks I should look at? I’m leaning towards fox because I like the Kashima bling and I’m really happy with my Nomad’s ride quality.

Also will there be a step down from the head tube to the fork? I’m hoping the aftermarket fork will have a clean look on the bike.

It’s pretty straight forward really. If you’re looking at the Cascade long shock kit, pick a shock with a 230x65 size.

For your fork choose your length (160mm or 170mm), choose the 44mm rake option, pick a color, done. (For a 29” wheel)

If you want Kashima then you want the “Factory” line of Fox Suspension.

It’s not bike specific. Hope that helps!

 

[pontoon]

It’s pretty straight forward really. If you’re looking at the Cascade long shock kit, pick a shock with a 230x65 size.

For your fork choose your length (160mm or 170mm), choose the 44mm rake option, pick a color, done.

If you want Kashima then you want the “Factory” line of Fox Suspension.

It’s not bike specific. Hope that helps!

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention, I’m looking for a 170mm fork. I was reading on some Orbea Wild posts (the other bike I was considering) the 160mm fork that comes on the top of the line Wild has an e-bike specific tune on it. So I was hoping I could find an e-bike specific fork if such a thing exists

 

[Haveland]

Fox has a emtb 38 fork at 170mm

Explore 38 E-Bike Forks | FOX

FOX redefines ride dynamics for ATVs, mountain bikes, motocross, off-road vehicles, snowmobiles, trucks, and UTVs.

www.ridefox.com

Some will say the emtb rated makes no difference and others will say it does.

 

[FirstAscent]

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention, I’m looking for a 170mm fork. I was reading on some Orbea Wild posts (the other bike I was considering) the 160mm fork that comes on the top of the line Wild has an e-bike specific tune on it. So I was hoping I could find an e-bike specific fork if such a thing exists

Fox makes a 38 with an e-bike tune. Note that it’s not a beefier fork than the regular 38, it’s simply a different tune in the damper.

 

[Lightme]

I went with a 180mm air spring in the original 38 on mine (Expert). It feels really good, glad I didn’t go 170mm.

 

[pontoon]

Ok well, I did it! Got a carbon comp bike (mostly for the frame). Time to choose the linkage, suspension, etc.

 

[FirstAscent]

Ok well, I did it! Got a carbon comp bike (mostly for the frame). Time to choose the linkage, suspension, etc.

Great choice! Definitely the best option if you want to upgrade components IMO. You get the larger battery and the mastermind TCU, everything else is easily upgradable

 

[LeeG]

Has anyone measured the actual head angle with this link installed? and if so, what was your headcup set at?

To answer my own question.

Actual head angle with link installed and chain stay in Low is 64°. BB height is 350mm. Neutral headset cup.

This is with spec cannibal 2.4" tyres, and ohlins fork at 170mm

 

[pontoon]

I just bought a 2022/23 Levo Carbon Comp in a box.

I’m debating whether

1. I should build up the bike (with mostly custom parts) with the stock suspension first to see how it rides
2. Forget the stock suspension, just order the cascade link and a matching fork (170) and shock (230x65)

Is the stock suspension handling and performance different enough that it’d be worth the effort to assemble the suspension twice, and worth the potential lost value in the suspension (would need to sell the parts as used instead of new/take off)?

 

[Haveland]

If the stock suspension still has any kind of factory wrap on it or something to show it’s not been used I’d not use them. Likely able to sell them for a good price.

 

[Ou812]

I just bought a 2022/23 Levo Carbon Comp in a box.

I’m debating whether

1. I should build up the bike (with mostly custom parts) with the stock suspension first to see how it rides
2. Forget the stock suspension, just order the cascade link and a matching fork (170) and shock (230x65)

Is the stock suspension handling and performance different enough that it’d be worth the effort to assemble the suspension twice, and worth the potential lost value in the suspension (would need to sell the parts as used instead of new/take off)?

I’d go with option 2, I wasn’t a fan of the stock X2/link on my bike so I’d imagine it would be even worse with a lower end shock. I started with the regular cascade link with the X2, then swapped to an EXT Storia and now I have the long link kit waiting to be installed once I get a new shock.

 

[pontoon]

Thanks. Has anyone tried using a Fox 38e up front and an Ohlins TTX22m.2?

I’m thinking the fox 38e might suit me, since I’m hearing it’s nice and plush.

I’m a lightweight, slow, and timid rider.

I heard the Ohlins fork standard tune is more heavily damped, which I doubt I need at my weight and speed. I’m sure I could get it tuned, but I’m nervous about needing repeated tunes.

For the shock, I’ve ordered a shock for a dirt bike direct from Ohlins before, and they tuned it exactly to my needs, and it’s crazy plush. Really nice.

So basically I’m thinking to order a standard Fox 38e and order the Ohlins coil shock from Ohlins USA, assuming they can tune it for me.

Does that sound reasonable or not?

I’m sure a rockshox would work too, but frankly the red coil just won’t look right on my bike…

 

[FirstAscent]

I just bought a 2022/23 Levo Carbon Comp in a box.

I’m debating whether

1. I should build up the bike (with mostly custom parts) with the stock suspension first to see how it rides
2. Forget the stock suspension, just order the cascade link and a matching fork (170) and shock (230x65)

Is the stock suspension handling and performance different enough that it’d be worth the effort to assemble the suspension twice, and worth the potential lost value in the suspension (would need to sell the parts as used instead of new/take off)?

I vote option 2 as well. If you’re considering it then might as well just sell the stock parts now. Possible to get more for it and easier to sell since it’s basically new.

I did the same thing essentially, I sold the shock in less than a day haha.

I have an Expert (mine) and I got my gf a Comp Carbon. I’m a lightweight rider as well (155lbs) and I’ve been pretty happy with the initial feeling of the Fox 38. It was harsh at first on jumps/drops but the shop set it up with more psi than needed originally as well.
I haven't used a 38e but I don’t think it’s needed, a standard 38 will be just fine.

For the record, I did order an avalanche damper for my 38, but that’s not because I didn’t like the 38, more so because I wanted a custom tune front and rear. Because why not
It’s not here yet and I’m enjoying the 38 on my expert.

The Ohlins would be a great choice for the rear though!

 

[pontoon]

Thanks, I’m leaning towards either the Ohlins or Rockshox coil. I did find a black coil for the rockshox, which I could live with.

Is there any difference in strength between the Rockshox coil and the Ohlins? I’m nervous about the yoke design breaking a shock.

I was trying to find info about shaft diameters and materials. I think the Öhlins is steel, not sure on the Rockshox. I think I read the Öhlins is 10mm and Rockshox 12mm. Can’t verify that info at all.

Anyone have insight into the relative strength of those shocks?

 

[Oakhills]

Pontoon, you mentioned that you are a slow and timid rider. I too was thinking of doing the exact same thing as you, get a carbon comp and go with the 165/170 option for suspension.

I have been riding the expert (not the comp) the last three days, and the suspension feels fine for most situations at the recommended settings by specialized. If you are charging and going for KOM’s or doing 8 foot drops, then you’ll need to tune the suspension as needed away from the stock recommendation. I am coming from a Nomad with Push suspension, and at least with the expert model of the Levo, the suspension is not too shabby, even for an old ex-dh racer like me.

So if you are riding slow and timid, maybe get some time in on the bike, improve you skills, as you start to really charge, then upgrade as needed. Ultimately, you will decide what you want and that is great! Enjoy the bike, it is really fun to ride!

 

[pontoon]

Pontoon, you mentioned that you are a slow and timid rider. I too was thinking of doing the exact same thing as you, get a carbon comp and go with the 165/170 option for suspension.

I have been riding the expert (not the comp) the last three days, and the suspension feels fine for most situations at the recommended settings by specialized. If you are charging and going for KOM’s or doing 8 foot drops, then you’ll need to tune the suspension as needed away from the stock recommendation. I am coming from a Nomad with Push suspension, and at least with the expert model of the Levo, the suspension is not too shabby, even for an old ex-dh racer like me.

So if you are riding slow and timid, maybe get some time in on the bike, improve you skills, as you start to really charge, then upgrade as needed. Ultimately, you will decide what you want and that is great! Enjoy the bike, it is really fun to ride!

Thanks, that’s fair enough. I currently have a Nomad with 170/165ish travel (Fox factory stuff) and love it. My thought with the 170 was to try and match the Nomad.

I normally ride a dirt bike, so I’m used to quite a bit more travel than 160/170

 

[FirstAscent]

@pontoon and @Oakhills funny you both mention the Nomad, I’m actually currently/actively considering picking one up! It would replace my Evil Wreckoning which I absolutely love, but just want to try something new.

Regarding the shock strengths, I know the Ohlins has had great luck on the Turbo Levo’s and I’d have no concerns. I don’t recall where I read it, perhaps on the cascade link site, but they were talking about certain shocks not the best choice for heavier emtb’s, but Ohlins was on their good list.

I have no personal experience with rockshox shocks on any bike though so can’t comment.

 

[head]

I was trying to find info about shaft diameters and materials. I think the Öhlins is steel, not sure on the Rockshox. I think I read the Öhlins is 10mm and Rockshox 12mm. Can’t verify that info at all.

If you want to use a Rock Shox coil shock on a Levo, you need to use one with a steel shaft. Currently, there are only two models with a steel shaft. 00.4118.359.045 210X55 for the Levo and 00.4118.359.046 230X62.5 for the Kenevo.

If you use some other model which doesn't have a steel shaft, then you risk losing your warranty.

See also: https://support.rockshox.com/hc/en-...Deluxe-Coil-rear-shock-compatible-on-my-bike-

Edit: If you want to go with Rock Shox, it might be worth contacting SRAM and asking them if they have a 230x65mm shock with a steel shaft.

 

[maramouse]

It's simple you can use the model for Kenevo without the spacer of 2.5 mm and the excursion goes to 65 mm

 

[pontoon]

If you want to use a Rock Shox coil shock on a Levo, you need to use one with a steel shaft. Currently, there are only two models with a steel shaft. 00.4118.359.045 210X55 for the Levo and 00.4118.359.046 230X62.5 for the Kenevo.

If you use some other model which doesn't have a steel shaft, then you risk losing your warranty.

See also: https://support.rockshox.com/hc/en-...Deluxe-Coil-rear-shock-compatible-on-my-bike-

Edit: If you want to go with Rock Shox, it might be worth contacting SRAM and asking them if they have a 230x65mm shock with a steel shaft.

It's simple you can use the model for Kenevo without the spacer of 2.5 mm and the excursion goes to 65 mm

Thanks!! I did contact Rockshox and was waiting for a reply.

Great to know the 62.5 can be made 65 and work for the Levo with the link (edit: cannot do that, actually, without changing damper body apparently)

 

[maramouse]

In Rockshox will be able to tell you better than me, I haven't directly seen the shock for the Kenevo, but usually the 230 are all 65 stroke and then reduced to 62.5 or 60 with one or two 2.5 mm spacers

 

[ebikerider]

In Rockshox will be able to tell you better than me, I haven't directly seen the shock for the Kenevo, but usually the 230 are all 65 stroke and then reduced to 62.5 or 60 with one or two 2.5 mm spacers

With the new Rockshox models it isn't as simple as removing the spacers as the stroke length is set to suit the hydraulic bottom out and removing the spacers could potentially end up in hard bottom out which might break them internally.