Astro66
Active member
We need the part no. of the Shimano Hub. Some Shimano hubs can be converted from Microspline to HG. Some cannot. The SLX hub cannot, as I have one, and I built a new rear wheel instead to get HG.
Autoshift on the Shimano XT di2 + EP801
- Thread starter Jil
- Start date
its the stock hub wich came with the bike.. sorry its a M20 not M10... i think its this one.... FH-MT410
Stock H15 rear hub is destroyed after 4 weeks
My H15 came with no-name hubs, and in the last couple rides there's been a clunk noise coming from the hub when you start pedaling after coasting. I just got back from the bike shop who pulled apart the hub. They said the notches that the pawls sit in are "ovaling out" sending out chunks of...
www.emtbforums.com
the stock hub has microspline , i need HG for 11 speed link glyde...
does the rear wheel has to be asymmetric or symetric? i never build a wheel before
i need to get this done by a shop but at least i want to know what hub i need... what hub would i need for the CS-LG700-11 cassette?
Astro66
Active member
It doesn't matter, but most "One By" drive trains are asymmetric as the hub sticks out a long way to fit the cassette.does the rear wheel has to be asymmetric or symetric? i never build a wheel before
The 11 speed HG wheel I built was asymmetric, so I had to get different length spokes.
Astro66
Active member
I'd say it's the FH-MT410-B, which is the boost version. The Freehub has normal pawls like most freehubs. So you should be able to get a HG version. But Shimano say it's only for Microspline, so you cannot get it from Shimano.
Astro66
Active member
I bought the MT400-B from Aliexpress. Delivered it was about AUD$60, which is probably about 40 Euro.
The hub is working nicely, so I might get a DT Swiss hub in the future. But there is no rush. From my experience the Shimano hubs work well. But the Cone nuts do come loose, and you have to tighten them, or the wheel wobbles.
The DT Swiss hub has sealed roller bearing and doesn't have this maintenance annoyance.
thx, i checked the shimano compatibitility list and there are a few hubs wich work...
after googling for a while for each hub.. i found a complete wheel... would this work also ?
www.taylor-wheels.de
the hub is compatible i just not sure about the asymmetric part...
after googling for a while for each hub.. i found a complete wheel... would this work also ?
29 Zoll Hinterrad DT Swiss Shimano Deore XT FH-M8010B Steckachse Disc
Mavic XM 824 Disc-Felge schwarz geöst - 29 Zoll - 32 Loch - schwarz, DTSwiss Edelstahl Speichen - schwarz, Shimano Deore XT FH-M8010B Disc Hinterradnabe 7-1
the hub is compatible i just not sure about the asymmetric part...
29 Zoll Laufrad Hinterrad Mavic XC421 Shimano FH-TC500-Boost 12x148mm
Mavic XC 421 - Hohlkammerfelge 29 Zoll (622-21) - schwarz, Edelstahl Speichen - schwarz, Shimano FH-TC500-B Disc 12mm Steckachse Hinterradnabe 7-11 fach Boo
also found this but im not sure about the hub... Shimano list says fh-tc500-HM-boost...
the link is without HM? do u know what the HM stands for? is it the same?
Astro66
Active member
I don't want to say whether those wheels will or won't be correct. All I can tell you is I bought, a 148 X12mm boost hub, with 32 spoke holes and a HG freehub. Those wheels appear to have that type of hub. But I am not familiar with them.
Also it appears that the DT Swiss Hub you are linking, has cone bearings, whilst that Shimano Hub has sealed roller bearings. So I would get the Shimano hub over the DT Swiss. But that Shimano hub only has 3 pawls, so it would not have good engagement.
Also it appears that the DT Swiss Hub you are linking, has cone bearings, whilst that Shimano Hub has sealed roller bearings. So I would get the Shimano hub over the DT Swiss. But that Shimano hub only has 3 pawls, so it would not have good engagement.
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the are both shimano hubs... all hubs are also listed in the shimano compatibitlityl list...
im sure the hubs are ok.. the only thing im worried about the asymmetric part...
Astro66
Active member
Yeah sorry it's in german. The rims were DT-Swiss in the second link. Yes both are Shimano HG boost hubs.
So, yes I agree. They should be fine. I just don't like telling people something should work when I have never used it myself.
So, yes I agree. They should be fine. I just don't like telling people something should work when I have never used it myself.
I had to find a HG free hub body that matched my 12spd MS free hub body and still had to modify the spacer because it was 2mm too wide
I have this setup. It’s great but I broke a chain during my first few rides in.
When going from a decline to swift incline, Autoshift has you in a high gear (assuming reasonable speed). Once inclined, you’re in the wrong gear. The system detects a change in speed, and downshifts. During the shift I applied a lot of pedal force (being in a high gear) and broke the chain. The chain broke sideways. Probably due to the mismatched derailleur and chain cog position.
During a manual shift, you’re aware of the shift and can ease off the pedal force to help the shift mechanics. With Autoshift, you’re not aware of the shift timing.
To prevent this, I’ve manually downshifted going into a decline-incline transition. Similar to a traditional shifting bike. I haven’t broke a chain since.
I don’t have any longevity info since I’ve only had it for a year, but don’t notice any wear. I haven’t used a chain stretch tool either.
On switchbacks, it frequently shifts due to the changes in speed and pedal cadence.
At times, it’s loud during shifts.
I enjoy riding with Autoshift. It puts me in gear 11 when I wouldn’t think to. And downshift when necessary.
When going from a decline to swift incline, Autoshift has you in a high gear (assuming reasonable speed). Once inclined, you’re in the wrong gear. The system detects a change in speed, and downshifts. During the shift I applied a lot of pedal force (being in a high gear) and broke the chain. The chain broke sideways. Probably due to the mismatched derailleur and chain cog position.
During a manual shift, you’re aware of the shift and can ease off the pedal force to help the shift mechanics. With Autoshift, you’re not aware of the shift timing.
To prevent this, I’ve manually downshifted going into a decline-incline transition. Similar to a traditional shifting bike. I haven’t broke a chain since.
I don’t have any longevity info since I’ve only had it for a year, but don’t notice any wear. I haven’t used a chain stretch tool either.
On switchbacks, it frequently shifts due to the changes in speed and pedal cadence.
At times, it’s loud during shifts.
I enjoy riding with Autoshift. It puts me in gear 11 when I wouldn’t think to. And downshift when necessary.
I very much like this Shimano autoshift but I never totally rely on it. Autoshifting usually gets a good gear or next but one. I sense if its not what I want and dont wait but intervene manually. Manual is push-button instantaneous - super system - couldn't wish to improve it.
For those with removable battery this is a good carry shell from Amazon.
This is the item title:
For those with removable battery this is a good carry shell from Amazon.
This is the item title:
Ebike Battery Case - Fireproof Safe Bag, Cycling Storage Bag | Large Capacity Ebike Battery Protective Bag, Shockproof Hard Shell Battery Bag for Storage, Camping, Black, Black, 18x6x4 Inches
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