Anyone install their cascade link for rise yet ?
- Thread starter czech99
- Start date
cookie70
Active member
mine just arrived, will get round to installing it ASAP
edit: its installed now.. Initial impression is that it greatly increases rigidity of the rear end. Changed from 8 to 6 volume spacer in the shock (Pink to orange). I did not use any loctite on the spindle, no instructions from cascade components on if it is required. I guess with the clamp bolt it should not need it.
No ride report yet.
edit: its installed now.. Initial impression is that it greatly increases rigidity of the rear end. Changed from 8 to 6 volume spacer in the shock (Pink to orange). I did not use any loctite on the spindle, no instructions from cascade components on if it is required. I guess with the clamp bolt it should not need it.
No ride report yet.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #3
was it hard removing the bearing in the upper pivot?
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
You wouldn't need to remove the upper pivot bearings to fit the Cascade linkage.
That said however, it's not hard to remove them. Best way (for me) is with an expanding bearing puller. Fit it to the bearing, as you tighten it it grips the inner race and then you tap it out from the other side using a drift and a hammer.
To be honest, for the upper pivot, you could probably get away with just knocking the old ones out from behind with a drift. There's plenty of space to go through the frame. Not terribly precise, mind.
- Thread starter
- #5
Correct, but if you get the pre-load kit it requires the removal of 1 of the bearings to put that spacer/shaft in
cookie70
Active member
I just discovered the install video 
Unfortunately I'm working today but my Son is out riding the bike so I'll be keen to hear his thoughts on the link and how it changes the bike.
Unfortunately I'm working today but my Son is out riding the bike so I'll be keen to hear his thoughts on the link and how it changes the bike.
cookie70
Active member
Came out easy using a cold chisel gently tapping it out from inside and using a headset press to reinstall it.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks. You have h or m series frame ? I have carbon and afraid of cracking. Not sure why mines stuck. I tried both left and ride side bearing using the blind hole remover
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
Is the the expanding type that you tighten up and then hit from the back?
How hard did you hit it? They should come out fairly easy with that.
- Thread starter
- #11
Yup see the photo above. I was using a mallet and a socket extension from the other side to tap the bearing puller.
Even with slide hammer it didn’t come out.
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
Maybe try a bit of penetrating spray around the bearing and let it soak in for a while?
I know this doesn't help but mine came out fairly easily...
I know this doesn't help but mine came out fairly easily...
- Thread starter
- #13
Thought about that. Might give it another shot.
PureFM
New Member
Are the bearings glued in? Not sure why they would but I've seen it done in other applications. Normally heat is used to "break down" the glue but I don't think that would be wise to use on the Carbon.
You can get Freeze spray in cans, to maybe shrink the bearing ????
You can get Freeze spray in cans, to maybe shrink the bearing ????
cookie70
Active member
Mine is the carbon frame. They should not be glued in and yes, they will require some force. Work your way around the bearing if your using a drift.
First ride report is extremely positive. Bike felt much more composed on descents, rode higher in the stroke and I had travel to spare where I would normally use it all. I actually used the lockout for climbing for the first time as it feels so much more supple off the top. As stated earlier, I went from #8 to #6 volume spacer and went up about 30psi from what I used to run the bike at.
First ride report is extremely positive. Bike felt much more composed on descents, rode higher in the stroke and I had travel to spare where I would normally use it all. I actually used the lockout for climbing for the first time as it feels so much more supple off the top. As stated earlier, I went from #8 to #6 volume spacer and went up about 30psi from what I used to run the bike at.
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Funks
Member
Instruction video from Cascade Components / Ride Bicycles could be better..
I installed the kit on my 2022 H30 Rise. Couple of things.
1) Why no Torque Specs? For 2022 Hydro Rise
Link Pinch Bolt Torque Spec is 15 nm
Shock Extender -> Link bolt is 15 nm
Rear Chainstay -> Link bolt is 10nm
2) If you are gonna remove the bearing (pushing or pulling it out via the inner race) because you bought the RISE PRELOAD KIT , be a good idea not to reuse the old one. If you just want to replace one bearing, snag a 6804 LLU MAX Bearing ahead of time (around 10$ USD)
3) Orbea Rise Blue Paper says you shouldn't put any grease on the axle splines mating surface, the guy on the VIDEO literally lathered the axle spline with GREASE - why?
4) When reinstalling the AXLE back onto the pivot, the threaded inner part of the AXLE should be pointing towards the RIGHT SIDE per the BLUE PAPER. No mention of that at all on the VIDEO.
5) Finally, the video doesn't mention that when installing the links, you have to make sure the middle bearing's orientation points toward the bottom of the bike. Pretty sure some people will try to install this upside down (if they don't know which one is left or right).
I installed the kit on my 2022 H30 Rise. Couple of things.
1) Why no Torque Specs? For 2022 Hydro Rise
Link Pinch Bolt Torque Spec is 15 nm
Shock Extender -> Link bolt is 15 nm
Rear Chainstay -> Link bolt is 10nm
2) If you are gonna remove the bearing (pushing or pulling it out via the inner race) because you bought the RISE PRELOAD KIT , be a good idea not to reuse the old one. If you just want to replace one bearing, snag a 6804 LLU MAX Bearing ahead of time (around 10$ USD)
3) Orbea Rise Blue Paper says you shouldn't put any grease on the axle splines mating surface, the guy on the VIDEO literally lathered the axle spline with GREASE - why?
4) When reinstalling the AXLE back onto the pivot, the threaded inner part of the AXLE should be pointing towards the RIGHT SIDE per the BLUE PAPER. No mention of that at all on the VIDEO.
5) Finally, the video doesn't mention that when installing the links, you have to make sure the middle bearing's orientation points toward the bottom of the bike. Pretty sure some people will try to install this upside down (if they don't know which one is left or right).
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cookie70
Active member
As it has the clamp bolt assume that's why he said you grease it up. I did the same. I emailed them initially and asked about using loctite, they said no need with the clamp.
As it uses the clamp at 5nm it wont matter as no need to preload it as per OEM.
Agreed, the instructions were lacking but I've done mine without issue. Agree replacing the bearings is a good idea at the same time if they are old!
- Thread starter
- #19
brass drift i assume?
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
It's a good idea to use something softer/ less brittle than the hardened steel of the bearing races. Your ratchet extension is probably fine for the job as it won't be hardened steel. If you have a brass drift then yeah, go for that but I wouldn't personally buy one especially.
Funks
Member
You can knock those bearings out 19mm, or 18mm OD hardwood - wooden dowel from the inside (just hit the bearing inner race). Like stated earlier, just gotta work it around.
If one buys the pre-load kit, one really can't use a blind bearing puller to pull the bearings out (in the future) as the sleeve that is installed in between the bearings won't allow you to do that (as the sleeve has a 20mm ID as well). But one can still punch out the bearing out from the inside (other side) with a dowel.
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Major Clod
New Member
Anyone observed a reduction in pedal strikes with this new link? Hoping it may ride a little higher in travel, especially uphill. The amount of additional strikes I get compared to my regular trail, xc and hardtail bikes is crazy!
Rod B.
Well-known member
You shouldn't have any problems with removing the bearings. Keep in mind, the bearings are not going to fall out, you'll have to strike them with some considerable force, using a ball peen hammer with some weight. I've always used a drift punch inserted from the opposite side of the frame to drive the bearing out. I've tried using a slide hammer puller, but I've found the brass drift punch to be more effective. I like using a brass drift punch simply because it's less likely to grenade the hardened bearing race and send the pieces shooting into your hand. Using a hardened punch against a hardened bearing can cause pieces of the bearing to shear off.
With all that said, you are obviously encountering a different situation than the rest of us. Remote Juggernaut's suggestion of some penetrating oil is very good. Give the bearings a shot of the oil and let it soak in for an hour or so. Occasionally tap the bearing. The idea is to get the oil to work into the gap between the bearing race and the frame.
I would suggest one other idea that may help loosen up the bearing. Lay the bike on it's side. Take some dry ice or ice cubes and place the pieces in a plastic bag. Lay the plastic bag on the pivot bearing itself. Let the bag sit there on the bearing for about 30 minutes. This will slightly cool the metal and shrink it. Once the bearing is very cold to the touch, quickly pick the bike up and strike the bearing, it should come out.
There‘s still an issue I do not fully understand with that new link. You get 10mm more travel in the rear end. Does that mean your BB height increases a bit? Or does it increase the rear wheel travel more into the direction of the seat tube when arriving end of progression?
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
BB height would only increase if you fitted a longer shock. The linkage is basically a longer lever than the standard part which means the rear axle moves further for the same movement at the shock.
The 'tradeoff' is an increase in the leverage ratio of the linkage which isn't necessarily a bad thing. You end up with more progression at the end of the stroke which some people will want, others not so much.
Depends on the geometry of the new link specifically how the holes are aligned compared to the OE one. Can you even get 10mm extra travel without it raising the BB?
doochenozzle
Member
What crank lengths you been running? I’m thinking about going to 160mm
doochenozzle
Member
I’m curious how this rides compared to running the 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock and offset bushings. I think the cascade would offer a superior leverage curve from what they show on their website.
Funks
Member
Anybody paired this up with a 160mm fork?
I'm currently running my Manitou Mezzer Pro at 150mm and have a Slack-R installed.
I'm currently running my Manitou Mezzer Pro at 150mm and have a Slack-R installed.
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