Anyone install their cascade link for rise yet ?

cookie70

Active member
Mar 23, 2022
204
152
Central Coast, Australia
Anybody paired this up with a 160mm fork?
Yes its a perfect combo. I also have 165mm cranks on L frame.
I've had a number of rides and so far feel it is a big improvement for the terrain I ride. My shock is due a service, got that squelchy noise off the top so will get it done and should perform much better!

I'm trying to track an annoying creak when i pedal. sounds like motor mounts or possibly the dropper cable rubbing between the frame/battery.. its the last annoying thing of this bike. to sort out!
 

czech99

New Member
Apr 5, 2023
14
6
US
You shouldn't have any problems with removing the bearings. Keep in mind, the bearings are not going to fall out, you'll have to strike them with some considerable force, using a ball peen hammer with some weight. I've always used a drift punch inserted from the opposite side of the frame to drive the bearing out. I've tried using a slide hammer puller, but I've found the brass drift punch to be more effective. I like using a brass drift punch simply because it's less likely to grenade the hardened bearing race and send the pieces shooting into your hand. Using a hardened punch against a hardened bearing can cause pieces of the bearing to shear off.

View attachment 126232


With all that said, you are obviously encountering a different situation than the rest of us. Remote Juggernaut's suggestion of some penetrating oil is very good. Give the bearings a shot of the oil and let it soak in for an hour or so. Occasionally tap the bearing. The idea is to get the oil to work into the gap between the bearing race and the frame.

I would suggest one other idea that may help loosen up the bearing. Lay the bike on it's side. Take some dry ice or ice cubes and place the pieces in a plastic bag. Lay the plastic bag on the pivot bearing itself. Let the bag sit there on the bearing for about 30 minutes. This will slightly cool the metal and shrink it. Once the bearing is very cold to the touch, quickly pick the bike up and strike the bearing, it should come out.

I used a punch and finally got it out. I ordered some new bearings anyways. but I had to hit it pretty hard before it started to finally budge
 

alex_o

Member
Mar 13, 2023
7
8
Portugal
Already installed mine, should give it a go in the end of the week
20231006_110121824_iOS.jpg

20231006_105937934_iOS.jpg
 

NuckaMan

Member
Feb 4, 2023
10
3
Southern CA
Wondering if anyone noticed a increase in stiffness in the rear end with the CC link with the preload kit. Love the Rise, but I always found the rear end a little flexy when charging hard around corners and in the rocks.
 

theremotejuggernaut

Active member
Aug 2, 2022
386
278
UK
I'd have said that the seatstays/ chainstay combined with tiny bearings are the reason for flex.

They're all going to flex and give long before the linkage does so I don't see it making much difference personally. The linkage is pretty heavy duty and run on fairly large bearings so it's probably already the stiffest part.

Happy to be proven wrong though!
 

NuckaMan

Member
Feb 4, 2023
10
3
Southern CA
I agree, the rear end chainstays are on the smaller size. I was just hoping to hear that the preload kit would help keep the link in place over the axles much better and add to the stiffness a bit.

I will be ordering the CC link shortly based on my experiences with CC links on a Transition and Evil, both delivered as advertised, biggest impact on the Transition Sentinel.
 
May 4, 2018
133
38
Canberra
Im still at a bit of a lose as to what it does and how. Is the link thicker / different materials / diff geometry etc?? Read the cascade blurb but not yet fully enlightened.

I changed the rekon the a scoprion with a DH casing and even that seems to provide a tad more stability so maybe this link is my next go to.

EDIT ; found pic above..OK seems quite a bit more 'meat'

1696321029330.jpg
 
Last edited:

TimC7

Ovine Assaulter
Apr 22, 2023
280
1,073
UK
Im still at a bit of a lose as to what it does and how. Is the link thicker / different materials / diff geometry etc?? Read the cascade blurb but not yet fully enlightened.

I changed the rekon the a scoprion with a DH casing and even that seems to provide a tad more stability so maybe this link is my next go to.

EDIT ; found pic above..OK seems quite a bit more 'meat'

View attachment 127274
The difference in distance between the mounting holes is obvious, so it changes the geometry, leverage, throw etc. I replaced a similar linkage on a motorbike rear suspension and the difference was like night and day.
 

Jay Bird

Member
Aug 22, 2022
28
12
Mill Valley, CA
Has anyone ran this on a rise with the 216 x 63 shock with offset bushings yet??
Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
 

MistaCh0w

New Member
Oct 27, 2023
5
0
New Jersey
Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
How's the rear tire clearance with the seat tube? Do you think there's enough room to run a 29" wheel out back if you wanted to?
 

BiGJZ74

E*POWAH Master
Subscriber
Mar 17, 2021
573
444
American Canyon, CA
Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
Do you have a pic of your bike?
 

iJak

Member
Mar 2, 2022
72
27
Vancouver BC
That's good to know, I'm ordering my next week and I run full 29". Currently running 1 offset but will run 2 if necessary
Planning my 2024 purchases and looking to get the link too. What size bike are you running? Also did you get the link installed yet with 29 out back? what's the clearance like?
 

BiGJZ74

E*POWAH Master
Subscriber
Mar 17, 2021
573
444
American Canyon, CA
Planning my 2024 purchases and looking to get the link too. What size bike are you running? Also did you get the link installed yet with 29 out back? what's the clearance like?
Received the link but no time to install yet due to work schedule. I used the retaining compound to keep the stock links from slipping, so they may be a pain to take off.
 

iJak

Member
Mar 2, 2022
72
27
Vancouver BC
Received the link but no time to install yet due to work schedule. I used the retaining compound to keep the stock links from slipping, so they may be a pain to take off.
How about now - Got it installed? What's your take on it so far and size of bike + full 29 setup?
 

BiGJZ74

E*POWAH Master
Subscriber
Mar 17, 2021
573
444
American Canyon, CA
I’m also curious for a ride report. With the longer travel the bike should sit lower at sag and at full bottom out. I’m curious if that’s noticeable.
The bike feels a bit lower as I have a ton of travel, in big compressions you are a bit lower in real rocky tech with a few more pedal strikes. That will probably go away as I get used to how the bike rides dynamically. I may swap to 160 cranks but I prefer 165. When I pedal above the speed limit, 160's have no leverage to sprint. The bike feels bottomless, I don't even feel the bottom outs at all. The bike is perfect for me now...I wanted an E-Rallon..now I have one lol. Although I may buy a Wild just to see what it's like. I'm a bigger guy so I run an Extender on every ride.
 

iJak

Member
Mar 2, 2022
72
27
Vancouver BC
Removal of old link was pretty straight forward.
Installation of new link was good until I had bolt in the seat stays. I got one side installed but it was quite hard to align - stripped first thread of the bolt. The second side was even harder.
Solution is to loosen the rear axle, and if you have SRAM, put on the chain slack lock on the rear mech. For any other drivetrains, disconnecting the chain would help by reducing seatstay tension.
This made both sides installation much easier.

As for 29" clearance with long stroking and double offset - we are good for a size large. I will probably reduce an offset like BiGJZ74 did. Unfortunately I do have a slight rub on my hydro h10 2021 model.
IMG_0238.jpeg
 

Weeksy

Well-known member
Subscriber
Dec 13, 2019
537
560
Reading
Tip for seat stays, (after doing same myself) is to do it on the floor with the bike wheels on the ground. I found they align almost instantly and it was a breeze. I ended up having to buy an M10 tap and running it through the thread on the orange one as i wasn't sure if it was just the bolt, but the thread was spot-on on the chainstay.
 

EMTB Forums

Since 2018

The World's largest electric mountain bike community.

559K
Messages
28,287
Members
Join Our Community

Latest articles


Top