Gutch
Active member
Just curious if this is happening. Thanks
Anyone have issues with their cranks coming loose?
- Thread starter Gutch
- Start date
Mabman
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Regardless of the bike brand if new it is a good idea to check the torque value of the crank bolts for the first few rides as they settle in. Was much worse with square taper cranks but splined cranks also need that initial attention.
But wait, I thought you just got a Rise and now you have a Trek?
But wait, I thought you just got a Rise and now you have a Trek?
Doug Stampfer
Well-known member
Yes common problem. Blue threadlock fixes it.
If your cranks keep coming loose and you are correctly torquing up the crank bolt it's because the female part of the spline has been damaged by the steel axle and no amount of tightening will sort it. It's not strictly speaking a warranty issue, but it is an issue with the PDI done by the shop so you need to get them to sort it.
Mine fell off for the first time today
Four Flusher
Active member
Do the crank bolts not come torqued properly from the factory? I think that you've had your Rail for a while. Do you think that it's still a problem?
My non drive side crank came loose once, when my bike was about 6 months old. I did it up as soon as I noticed (which is arguably too late as the crank is already moving on the axle at this point so the damage may already be done) and rode home. Then I took it off, cleaned up the mating surface and refitted applying the correct torque. I then checked it after every ride for a month (so 4 times a week at that point) and it hasn’t come undone since.
I have no idea if the cranks are even fitted at the factory or at the LBS during the PDI but it certainly doesn’t hurt to check them periodically.
Third-Reef
Active member
What is the torque value for the crank mounting bolts?
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
...and a torque wrench.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Not for a Shimano Hollowtech crank though! That'd snap them off I'd think. 1-2Nm for the crank preload cap and 10-15Nm for the crank arm bolts is more normal.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Yup - he mentioned a Rise as well. Thanks for the clarification though and sorry for causing any confusion. Cheers.
No amount of loctite or torquing is going to stop those eThirteen cranks from coming loose and the pedals will eventually strip. It is a known, common problem with them on the Rail. Replace them with something else and save yourself a lot of inconvenience.
Do you know what options are out there for bosch cranks in 160 or 165?
Another rider
Member
It does seem to be a fairly common problem and usually the non-drive side. I had it happen once and lost the crank bolt which made for an interesting ride home. I now check them fairly regularly just to be sure.
I got 165 RaceFace but there’s not much available out there due to COVID.
ryan_ca1
New Member
Check my post here: Waiting is over - EMTB Forums
In short this was a huge problem. Trek replaced my crank, but i bought a replacement first because I was tired of waiting. Do not bother with thread locker - it does not work and just makes a big mess. Once the crank has come loose, you can't tighten it any more. The soft aluminum is damaged.
My recommendation is to torque to 40 NM right after you get it, then after a few miles, then again after a few rides. In my experience, it doesn't come loose after that. I do this after EVERY time I pull the crank.
In short this was a huge problem. Trek replaced my crank, but i bought a replacement first because I was tired of waiting. Do not bother with thread locker - it does not work and just makes a big mess. Once the crank has come loose, you can't tighten it any more. The soft aluminum is damaged.
My recommendation is to torque to 40 NM right after you get it, then after a few miles, then again after a few rides. In my experience, it doesn't come loose after that. I do this after EVERY time I pull the crank.
I did look at those, but I kinda want to try 160's. If mine come loose again, I'll probably try the RF Aeffects or possibly Next R's
Kevlasultanpus
Member
My jam2 lost the non drive side crank twice on the last ride. Only had the multi tool so did not get great torque. My fault as it does come loose and needs constant checking. Think locktight may be the go on next service
flightrisk86
Member
Just saw this post, or maybe did not read it well in prior searches.
Anyway, I ordered Race Face 165mm this morning as the last hope to loosening of the drive-side crank arm after each ride.
I was going to let the LBS look at it, but they take forever to have a look and love to tell me this is the first time we have ever heard of that issue and of course look at me like I have marbles dropping from my ears. Then if they warranty stuff it is a wait and wait and wait and of course no proactive check-in calls. Sometimes I get lucky and the guy wrenching on the $50 kids' bike will school me on how MTB's work. I sure Luv this pandemic.
There seems to be hope that the issue is related to the cranks - fingers crossed and now an 8mm allen wrench rides with me.
Just goes to show "If it's not Scottish, It's Crap!"
Anyway, I ordered Race Face 165mm this morning as the last hope to loosening of the drive-side crank arm after each ride.
I was going to let the LBS look at it, but they take forever to have a look and love to tell me this is the first time we have ever heard of that issue and of course look at me like I have marbles dropping from my ears. Then if they warranty stuff it is a wait and wait and wait and of course no proactive check-in calls. Sometimes I get lucky and the guy wrenching on the $50 kids' bike will school me on how MTB's work. I sure Luv this pandemic.
There seems to be hope that the issue is related to the cranks - fingers crossed and now an 8mm allen wrench rides with me.
Just goes to show "If it's not Scottish, It's Crap!"
flightrisk86
Member
I have replaced the E13 cranks with Raceface Aeffect cranks. So far, so good. The RF Cranks state 45ftlb of torque. I tighten them in stages, cause 45 seemed super tight. All went well, 15miles of hills streets and jumps, not a budge. E13 drive side was needing a tighten 3-4 times during the same ride.
Pics of both cranks below -
Hard to see in the photos, but the RF crank has much tighter tolerances in the splines and gap between the bolt.
The non-Drive side needed a puller to come off - $17 - pic of tool attached
Pics of both cranks below -
Hard to see in the photos, but the RF crank has much tighter tolerances in the splines and gap between the bolt.
The non-Drive side needed a puller to come off - $17 - pic of tool attached
Last edited:
Smittylube
Member
Rail 7.
Is the left side non drive side right handed normal threads and the right side left handed threads? I have about 55 miles and want to check the torque, but I don't want to loosen them to find out I went the wrong direction.
Is the left side non drive side right handed normal threads and the right side left handed threads? I have about 55 miles and want to check the torque, but I don't want to loosen them to find out I went the wrong direction.
flightrisk86
Member
Lucky! New e13 cranks arrived with instructions - see next post
Wait for it, wait for it. Bam!
Wait for it, wait for it. Bam!
flightrisk86
Member
e*thirteen crank install directions - 2021
Last edited:
Smittylube
Member
I saw that, but it makes me thing both sides are right hand threads.?
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