Any experience with Moterra SL out there?

[ah1]

You win "enduro" race's on an 120mm xc bike ? sure you do... but for the spec and price i think its pretty good value, review the top model for you want the fancy factory suspension, for the average joe this would be just fine if not a great bike, and review it as an e-bike comparing it against other e-bikes not your analog bike... thanks for the video

Thanks for watching! I think some folks here should just buy a Turbo Vado they'll save money and get similar results
I hope folks educate themselves before buying an $8k+ bike. On the other hand, folks that don't know anything about component specs hopefully can keep the bike industry humming until the bad times blow over.

More seriously:
* Tallboy isn't an "XC bike" it's a trail bike and can definitely be ridden on enduro courses (and on races where climbing is needed, like Downieville, it will score faster times than my Spec' Enduro). Check the geometry #'s (and the weight) if you're confused here, or just go ride one.
* I wasn't talking about Factory suspension - maybe you read it on another thread? I meant the Performance Elite level, which is same damper as Factory but w/o the marketing cost of Kashima. But I wrote Performance Elite, I'm guessing you just like to make stuff up
* My review didn't mention the components as the negatives, and all the negatives (and positives) have nothing to do with the build. I thought that was obvious, but obviously I was assuming too much.
* IDK why you think I'm comparing it to analog bikes - but since some folks here just like to shoot darts and troll what was supposed to be just me offering my unbiased impressions, let me explain: when I say "motor rattle" I mean it rattles lounder than other E-bikes that don't have the Shimano motor. I didn't mean it rattles more than analog bikes, because obviously analog bikes don't have motors. Maybe I'm sounding facetious but that's how your "analog" comment sounds to me.

The one thing I agree with is that to most riders Fox Performance can be enough. But I was commenting in the video how I prefer the grip2 damper and the adjustments that come with it - personal preference - and also IMO stores should be their best foot forward on demo bikes so that riders have the best experience.

Anyway, for those who own the bike - enjoy! I'm sure you love it, and everyone has different riding styles and preferences. For those who haven't bought yet - go seek other reviews, my review was based only on 2 days of riding. And for those who just like to troll - I'm happy to make life a bit less boring for you, even if it's just for a few minutes.

 

[jawork]

Thanks for watching! I think some folks here should just buy a Turbo Vado they'll save money and get similar results
I hope folks educate themselves before buying an $8k+ bike. On the other hand, folks that don't know anything about component specs hopefully can keep the bike industry humming until the bad times blow over.

More seriously:
* Tallboy isn't an "XC bike" it's a trail bike and can definitely be ridden on enduro courses (and on races where climbing is needed, like Downieville, it will score faster times than my Spec' Enduro). Check the geometry #'s (and the weight) if you're confused here, or just go ride one.
* I wasn't talking about Factory suspension - maybe you read it on another thread? I meant the Performance Elite level, which is same damper as Factory but w/o the marketing cost of Kashima. But I wrote Performance Elite, I'm guessing you just like to make stuff up
* My review didn't mention the components as the negatives, and all the negatives (and positives) have nothing to do with the build. I thought that was obvious, but obviously I was assuming too much.
* IDK why you think I'm comparing it to analog bikes - but since some folks here just like to shoot darts and troll what was supposed to be just me offering my unbiased impressions, let me explain: when I say "motor rattle" I mean it rattles lounder than other E-bikes that don't have the Shimano motor. I didn't mean it rattles more than analog bikes, because obviously analog bikes don't have motors. Maybe I'm sounding facetious but that's how your "analog" comment sounds to me.

The one thing I agree with is that to most riders Fox Performance can be enough. But I was commenting in the video how I prefer the grip2 damper and the adjustments that come with it - personal preference - and also IMO stores should be their best foot forward on demo bikes so that riders have the best experience.

Anyway, for those who own the bike - enjoy! I'm sure you love it, and everyone has different riding styles and preferences. For those who haven't bought yet - go seek other reviews, my review was based only on 2 days of riding. And for those who just like to troll - I'm happy to make life a bit less boring for you, even if it's just for a few minutes.

I watched your review. Have no problem if you don’t like the bike. I do have the SL 1 on order and I am surprised by your commit of just buy a Vado. I’m assuming that was just to get a point across and I understand the bike may not be for you, but did you really feel it was that bad? I’m coming from an analog bike to my first e-bike and this seems like a great bike from the reviews I have seen.

 

[ah1]

I watched your review. Have no problem if you don’t like the bike. I do have the SL 1 on order and I am surprised by your commit of just buy a Vado. I’m assuming that was just to get a point across and I understand the bike may not be for you, but did you really feel it was that bad? I’m coming from an analog bike to my first e-bike and this seems like a great bike from the reviews I have seen.

Absolutely not that bad! I was just responding to some folks who had a problem with me complaining about the component spec on a demo bike.
As mentioned in the review, the bike has great handling descending and cornering and frankly I don't think anyone needs a "full" ebike when you have this bike. It's not quite the battery that full powered bikes have but it shaves a lot of weight and feels like a normal bike as opposed to some full powered that feel like a tank and are difficult to manage.
The motor rattle: I assume most won't be bothered by it. The low clearance can be an issue but I think mostly on technical climbs, I didn't hit anything on descents. I did see other reviewers also had a challenge with wheel wander but that's the price to pay for such a long and slack geo (and btw I rode it in the stock version, I think you can steepen the HA). Sans the components my experience was actually positive.
About the wheel wondering on the climbs - the video doesn't do justice to how steep those climbs are. So how hard you'll need to work to keep over the front depends on what terrain you're riding in your area. I noticed other reviewers also found that aspect challenging.
Lastly, I think today there's still no "almost perfect" ebike, every ebike today has its compromises as vendors are evolving their offerings. So just consider if the negatives are deal-breakers for you. As mentioned previously I found the lightweight brakes to be a deal-breaker but that has nothing to do with the bike (If you did get a build with lightweight brakes just replace them with aftermarket enduro/downhill brakes). Enjoy the bike!

 

[jawork]

Absolutely not that bad! I was just responding to some folks who had a problem with me complaining about the component spec on a demo bike.
As mentioned in the review, the bike has great handling descending and cornering and frankly I don't think anyone needs a "full" ebike when you have this bike. It's not quite the battery that full powered bikes have but it shaves a lot of weight and feels like a normal bike as opposed to some full powered that feel like a tank and are difficult to manage.
The motor rattle: I assume most won't be bothered by it. The low clearance can be an issue but I think mostly on technical climbs, I didn't hit anything on descents. I did see other reviewers also had a challenge with wheel wander but that's the price to pay for such a long and slack geo (and btw I rode it in the stock version, I think you can steepen the HA). Sans the components my experience was actually positive.
About the wheel wondering on the climbs - the video doesn't do justice to how steep those climbs are. So how hard you'll need to work to keep over the front depends on what terrain you're riding in your area. I noticed other reviewers also found that aspect challenging.
Lastly, I think today there's still no "almost perfect" ebike, every ebike today has its compromises as vendors are evolving their offerings. So just consider if the negatives are deal-breakers for you. As mentioned previously I found the lightweight brakes to be a deal-breaker but that has nothing to do with the bike (If you did get a build with lightweight brakes just replace them with aftermarket enduro/downhill brakes). Enjoy the bike!

Thanks for the detailed reply! I ended up getting the SL 1 for the price of the SL 2, so I’m going to have a significantly better component package. It was a debate between this and the Heckler SL. Neither was perfect. Ideally the Pivot AM or SL was my first choice, but pricing and availability was not working in my favor. Cheers!

 

[jawork]

The bike is back in stock at REI.....please tell us about this good deal you got from REI...is there a coupon or something?

They were selling for $6999.00+ tax, but didn’t have advertised and are now back to full price. I have an extra one I ordered for a friend that wasn’t a member. If interested, message me. It’s in Cleveland.

 

[Ender]

They were selling for $6999.00+ tax, but didn’t have advertised and are now back to full price. I have an extra one I ordered for a friend that wasn’t a member. If interested, message me. It’s in Cleveland.

That's a nice deal. I wish I'd thought of that.

As for my Moterra SL 2, I trimmed the bars a bit and had the shop change the head tube angle to its steepest setting, and it feels better now, easier on switchbacks.

I'm okay with the component specs for now. Although I prefer SRAM shifting, this Shimano set feels fine. The brakes are fine too. I'm still getting the suspension dialed in. I figured I could upgrade the fork to GRIP2 next year.

 

[Drewf]

They were selling for $6999.00+ tax, but didn’t have advertised and are now back to full price. I have an extra one I ordered for a friend that wasn’t a member. If interested, message me. It’s in Cleveland.

Interested! Message sent...thanks!

 

[Rhitter]

I have about 200 miles on this bike. Disclaimer: I got it at EP pricing so wasn't shopping other brands. Before the Moterra SL I was mostly riding a Jekyll (170 front / 165mm rear) none eBike.

Part spec - I have changed out a lot to suit me and I will continue to change things. Full 29, steep setting, brakes, 38 factory, my own bars and stem.

Feel: the long rear end is a non-issue. I ride super tighter trails most times where going 15+ mph is a dream. The bike handles that stuff well.

The rear shock is fine. I miss coil. All my FS bikes have been coil.

The bike is really easy to ride. It feels just like a solid all around bike. Does everything well.

My Jekyll did everything amazingly though. It felt like something special. The Moterra SL is a good bike with a motor.

The Shimano motor rattles a lot / constantly. So do the cables.

At the end of the day it's a good platform does what I want out of a eBike, but I still need to change more to make it the bike I want.

 

[WizardCornelius]

Nice Rhitter, glad you are enjoying and have made the bike work for you! I changed it a fair bit to suit me as well but in quite different ways to you. I got the SL2 white cheapest spec. Found all the main components plenty serviceable.

However, the bars, stem and cranks were all so soft and flexy it ruined the responsive feeling of the bike for me. Changed out for a stiffer stem and some stiffer bars, and some nice 155 cranks. Just those peripheral changes transformed the bike and it rides fantastically now.

I settled on slack position after trying both for a while, but the steering was too slow for my taste, so I changed to a 32mm stem and cut my bars to 780mm and it livened it up. Feels amazing now.

Due to health problems I started on EMTBs and can only ride EMTB, I will likely never be able to ride an analogue bike, so for me to have such a lightweight full power so soon is truly amazing. Thought I'd be waiting another decade for this bike

 

[Rhitter]

I have made a couple other changes s few days ago that I think really helped my enjoyment of the bike:
1. Installed higher raise bars. I was running 25mm bars. I just put on 38mm.
2. Changed the seatstays back to the long (27.5) position, but kept the 29er wheelset on. This raised the BB up and helps it feel more like a trail bike (also made the HA a little steeper).

I really like this feel, it helps the rear-end get a little lighter / easier to move around and combined with the higher bars it's easier to lift the front of the bike.

it's really easy to change the HA on the bike, But I have only ridden it in steep. I am curious what slacker will do. But, I don't need it slacker for what I ride, and despite the marketing, literally everyone is switching it to steeper and talking about how good that feels.

Full power versus / SL - that's what really drew me to this bike. I didn't want an SL eBike and I didn't want the weight of a full power. This does a good job of feeling very similar to my Jekyll.

This is a good middle ground for where bike tech currently is. I can get about 4k feet of climbing and have 10% battery left. Which suits the rides I want to do on this bike well.

 

[WizardCornelius]

Interesting, I'm also getting along with 38mm rise bars, and 2 stem spacers underneath.

I ride short mini gravity trails, just a few minutes descending, usually packed with features, jumps drops berms etc, but nothing massive, and no switchbacks. Then I whack it in turbo and rip back to the top. That's all the trails we really have locally. They're all short and downhill, and the only real climb is back to the top. Don't think I've used more than 2 bars of battery so far, could probably take an even smaller lighter one!

By the sound of it, we are riding pretty differently, and probably both using the correct headset setting. I've not noticed a single negative effect on my riding since switching to slack, all positive vs steep.

You keeping the Jekyll? So far very pleased with this bike as my one bike to do it all, I don't have any other MTBs now.

 

[Rhitter]

I am riding on my steeper trails. But they all have a ton of steep tight switch backs.

No sold the Jekyll to find the SL. No reason / desire to drag around that bike on the uphills.

 

[jookyuh]

I have about 200 miles on this bike. Disclaimer: I got it at EP pricing so wasn't shopping other brands. Before the Moterra SL I was mostly riding a Jekyll (170 front / 165mm rear) none eBike.

Part spec - I have changed out a lot to suit me and I will continue to change things. Full 29, steep setting, brakes, 38 factory, my own bars and stem.

Feel: the long rear end is a non-issue. I ride super tighter trails most times where going 15+ mph is a dream. The bike handles that stuff well.

The rear shock is fine. I miss coil. All my FS bikes have been coil.

The bike is really easy to ride. It feels just like a solid all around bike. Does everything well.

My Jekyll did everything amazingly though. It felt like something special. The Moterra SL is a good bike with a motor.

The Shimano motor rattles a lot / constantly. So do the cables.

At the end of the day it's a good platform does what I want out of a eBike, but I still need to change more to make it the bike I want.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I have a spare Fox Factory 38 with 170mm travel, and was contemplating whether to run it or not on my Moterra SL. Are you running 170mm or did you reduce the travel to 160mm? If you have it on 170mm, how does it ride?

 

[Rhitter]

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I have a spare Fox Factory 38 with 170mm travel, and was contemplating whether to run it or not on my Moterra SL. Are you running 170mm or did you reduce the travel to 160mm? If you have it on 170mm, how does it ride?

Dropped it to 160. Didn't ride it at 170. Imo it should be fine at 170 in the steep position.

The different seat stay positions are enough to adjust bb height for your preference.

 

[jookyuh]

Dropped it to 160. Didn't ride it at 170. Imo it should be fine at 170 in the steep position.

The different seat stay positions are enough to adjust bb height for your preference.

I will just stick to the frame spec and run the 38 in 160. Thanks for the reply, as it was very helpful.

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

I have about 200 miles on this bike. Disclaimer: I got it at EP pricing so wasn't shopping other brands. Before the Moterra SL I was mostly riding a Jekyll (170 front / 165mm rear) none eBike.

Part spec - I have changed out a lot to suit me and I will continue to change things. Full 29, steep setting, brakes, 38 factory, my own bars and stem.

Feel: the long rear end is a non-issue. I ride super tighter trails most times where going 15+ mph is a dream. The bike handles that stuff well.

The rear shock is fine. I miss coil. All my FS bikes have been coil.

The bike is really easy to ride. It feels just like a solid all around bike. Does everything well.

My Jekyll did everything amazingly though. It felt like something special. The Moterra SL is a good bike with a motor.

The Shimano motor rattles a lot / constantly. So do the cables.

At the end of the day it's a good platform does what I want out of a eBike, but I still need to change more to make it the bike I want.

Do you have to change the software for the 29 wheel, i’m going to swap in my spare 29r set tomorrow on mine and not sure if i have to tell the bike!

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

Have to say, two rides in and i love this bike, my other bikes are Ibis Ripmo V2s and Trek Fuel Exe which is over shocked to 160/153, in comparison the bike turns very well, flies downhill's with confidence, yes slightly wanders about but i got used to that pretty quick and don’t notice it now, i have a nice Ohlins coil shock to try, Zeb Ultimate 160mm forks, carbon 29 wheels also, my 155mm cranks arrive tomorrow so bike will be changing this weekend. Can’t wait to try the different items and choose my favourite setup, Oh and my dropper cable is rattling inside so a bit of fettling on that this weekend!

This bike is so fast the UK speed limit is a complete arse….

Hats off to Cannondale.

 

[Jeff McD]

Does anyone have a link to a video of how to steepen the headset angle on the SL2? With cables going down through the headset it doesn't look that easy on the surface of it. Afraid to start on it without a description of how it's done. Thanks folks.

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

Does anyone have a link to a video of how to steepen the headset angle on the SL2? With cables going down through the headset it doesn't look that easy on the surface of it. Afraid to start on it without a description of how it's done. Thanks folks.

Probably wait for an experienced answer as i’ve not done this yet, but i took the stem off and had a look, i imagine you just disconnect the display wires (whilst off with a proper shimano tool) then remove stem, remove bearings etc, then knock out the cups and rotate 180 deg and reinsert the cups, there’s a diagram in the manual online.

Hope this helps

 

[WizardCornelius]

Does anyone have a link to a video of how to steepen the headset angle on the SL2? With cables going down through the headset it doesn't look that easy on the surface of it. Afraid to start on it without a description of how it's done. Thanks folks.

I've done it myself, and it's actually really easy thankfully, (I know little about headsets haha).

It's the outermost top and bottom cups you have to rotate, and you don't need to remove much at all. Just take off the stem completely, and then you can do it all with the fork steerer tube still through the bikes head tube. Then you can keep all the weird jangly headset bits in the right order inside the cups the whole time and just ignore them.

The cups just pull out, then you rotate them 180 degrees, then pop back in the way they came out. They only pop in once in one of the 2 correct orientations luckily, so as long as you pay attention and be sure to 180 twist both cups, you can't really get it wrong.

If you remove the little wedge shaped bungs the cables are run through first, you can get plenty of slack on them to do this without disconnecting them. The cables run through the centre, so the cups can rotate around externally without affecting them.

 

[Rhitter]

Do you have to change the software for the 29 wheel, i’m going to swap in my spare 29r set tomorrow on mine and not sure if i have to tell the bike!

I never did. And I also never got any speed advantage. My motor cut off is right around 20 mph gps measured.

20 mph is incredibly annoying on roads and I don't get anywhere close to that on trails. Basically I wish it was higher. I get why it's not (optics look better) but the only time I go that fast is when I am on the road and who cares how fast I am going then.

I also pulled off the screen and all the wires and am just running the bike with the top tube controls.
The only disadvantage is no walk mode.

Coil shock is my long term plan for the bike. How did you decide on weight for the spring?

 

[mustclime]

I used this for my Kenevo

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned are experts in mountain bike and bicycle suspension service and repair, including setting-up the for you and your bike

www.tftuned.com

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

I never did. And I also never got any speed advantage. My motor cut off is right around 20 mph gps measured.

20 mph is incredibly annoying on roads and I don't get anywhere close to that on trails. Basically I wish it was higher. I get why it's not (optics look better) but the only time I go that fast is when I am on the road and who cares how fast I am going then.

I also pulled off the screen and all the wires and am just running the bike with the top tube controls.
The only disadvantage is no walk mode.

Coil shock is my long term plan for the bike. How did you decide on weight for the spring?

I have a Spindex coil spring so got a decent amount of adjustment, will see if the leverage works out, today i put my Zeb Ultimates on with 155mm Pindd cranks and One Up Pedals, will try that then next week add the coil and try the 29r wheels.

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

I never did. And I also never got any speed advantage. My motor cut off is right around 20 mph gps measured.

20 mph is incredibly annoying on roads and I don't get anywhere close to that on trails. Basically I wish it was higher. I get why it's not (optics look better) but the only time I go that fast is when I am on the road and who cares how fast I am going then.

I also pulled off the screen and all the wires and am just running the bike with the top tube controls.
The only disadvantage is no walk mode.

Coil shock is my long term plan for the bike. How did you decide on weight for the spring?

I unfortunately hit the limit a lot on undulating singletrack and it always seems to know the wrong time to do it……

 

[Jeff McD]

Hey thanks for the advice wizard, will go ahead and steepen the head angle. Also found a video that showed a slight variation of your method. He just loosened his stem, raised it a bit without removing it completely from the steerer tune, & tightened the lower stem bolt to securely grab the very top of the steerer tube. Then he didn't lose any parts. He just worked the upper and lower parts free of the head tube, rotated the 2 cups and then put them all back together again. That way you don't have to hold the front of the bike so that the fork doesn't slip out and loose parts or other order of assembly:

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

Hey thanks for the advice wizard, will go ahead and steepen the head angle. Also found a video that showed a slight variation of your method. He just loosened his stem, raised it a bit without removing it completely from the steerer tune, & tightened the lower stem bolt to securely grab the very top of the steerer tube. Then he didn't lose any parts. He just worked the upper and lower parts free of the head tube, rotated the 2 cups and then put them all back together again. That way you don't have to hold the front of the bike so that the fork doesn't slip out and loose parts or other order of assembly:

That’s exactly what i did yesterday, worked a treat!!

 

[WizardCornelius]

Hey thanks for the advice wizard, will go ahead and steepen the head angle. Also found a video that showed a slight variation of your method. He just loosened his stem, raised it a bit without removing it completely from the steerer tune, & tightened the lower stem bolt to securely grab the very top of the steerer tube. Then he didn't lose any parts. He just worked the upper and lower parts free of the head tube, rotated the 2 cups and then put them all back together again. That way you don't have to hold the front of the bike so that the fork doesn't slip out and loose parts or other order of assembly:

Nice, that's a good tweak! I put mine in a bike stand for the same outcome of not having to hold the bike, but yeah clamping the stem at the top of the steerer can work too. Hope you enjoy the new head angle! At least it's easy to change if you prefer the old one too .

 

[GeordieDownSouth]

160mm Zebs fitted with Truetune insert, New Stem, One - Up Bar, One-Up Pedals and Pinnd 155mm crank, steep setting, this girls got legs!!
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